On the 21st of February, 250 million Americans will be celebrate the birthday of George Washington, the man they fondly refer to as "the father of the nation". Although most people think of Washington as the first president of the United States it is equally accurate to perceive him as the king of Mount Vernon, his Virginia estate.

The palatial residence in which he and his wife Martha held court contained twenty-two rooms but this was only one of many buildings in this mini-kingdom. In addition to three smaller buildings (of only seven or eight rooms each) meant to house guests, there were six smokehouses, eight barns, five root cellars, a special storeroom for tobacco that was grown on the plantation and a distillery where Washington bottled his own brand of whiskey. There were also over 180 smaller buildings, most of which had only one room that housed the 400 slaves that Washington owned.

Washington, the richest president in American history, ruled over Mount Vernon with an iron hand, insisting that not even the most minor decisions be made without consulting him. Not a tree could be planted and not a meal planned without his approval. Although most of the people who prepared his meals were slaves, Washington insisted on placing an English chef in charge of the kitchen.

Although he held no loyalty to the King of England, Washington lived and behaved with distinctly English manners and, like most of the wealthy English of his time, he was devoted to dishes that had been adopted from European recipes. His beloved apple pie was distinctly English; the fish chowder he ate every Friday was French; the cabbage salad he frequently had with his lunch was German; and the waffles he ate for Sunday breakfast were originally Dutch. The whiskey that he consumed in large quantities at and in between meals was generally imported from Ireland or Scotland. (The liquor produced at Mount Vernon was all destined for sale in Virginia, Maryland and Pennsylvania and, even though Washington kept some for his friends, he did not enjoy drinking it himself).

The truth of the matter is that the culinary fare of Virginia has not evolved very much since Washington's time. All of which is fine, for even though sweet potatoes, peanuts, turkey, corn and other foods native to America are commonly used in cooking, many of the dishes that are served up in the most sophisticated homes and restaurants are based on recipes that made their way to America from Paris, London and Rome in the late 18th century.

On January 15th, 1798, Washington sent hand written notes to eight friends, inviting them to come to Mount Vernon to celebrate his 66th birthday with him. The guest list was impressive, and included President John Adams and three men (Thomas Jefferson James Madison and John Quincy Adams) who would eventually be elected to the presidency. The guests arrived on 20 February, the day before the party and each brought an edible or drinkable gift. Madison brought six pheasants, John Adams brought two kegs of Irish whiskey and John Quincy Adams brought a bottle of fine Madeira wine. The gift that seems to have been most appreciated by Washington was that presented by Jefferson. Because he had just returned from a European trip, Jefferson brought with him a recipe for an ice-cream dessert that he had obtained from Giuseppe Tortoni, a young Italian who had recently established a cafe in Paris.

In a letter to a friend, Jefferson later wrote that Washington "had heard about the little Italian ice cream maker who was the rage of Paris and was delighted to receive the recipe ... and arranged to have the dessert prepared for our pleasure. ...We may as well have been in Paris as in the good State of Virginia".

As was his custom, Washington designed the menu for the meal and gave his chief cook explicit instructions as to how to prepare of the dishes. Although several of the recipes below have been adapted to the modern kitchen (nearly all of the cooking at Mount Vernon was done on wood burning stoves and in ovens fueled by charcoal), the flavor of the dinner will be much the same as it was nearly two hundred years ago. Even though each of the dishes has distinct European roots, all are now considered classics of Virginia cookery and all may be sampled by visiting The Williamsburg Inn in Williamsburg, Virginia. (Unless otherwise noted, each of the recipes is designed to serve 6 - 8).

Foie Gras with Grapes and Onion Rings

1/2 cup veal or beef stock
butter as required
6 or 8 slices of white bread, without crusts
6 or 8 slices goose liver (foie gras)
Madeira or port wine, as required
200 grams seedless grapes, peeled
2 medium onions, breaded and fried

In a small saucepan boil the veal stock until it is reduced to half and set aside for later use.

In a skillet melt 1 Tablespoon of the butter and in this fry 2 or 3 of the bread slices, turning once so they are fried on both sides. Add butter if necessary and continue until all of the bread slices have been fried.

In a clean, large heavy skillet melt 2 Tablespoons of the butter and in this saute the goose liver just until it is done (the goose liver should be nicely browned on both sides but still pink inside). Set the slices aside to keep warm.

Add the red wine to the skillet in which the foie gras was sauteed and, scraping the bottom and sides well, bring to a boil. Let boil for 2 - 3 minutes and then add the reduced veal stock. Bring again to a boil. Reduce to a low flame, add the grapes and let simmer gently for 2 - 3 minutes longer.

To serve place a slice of foie gras on each toasted bread slice and over all pour the sauce and grapes from the skillet. Garnish with the fried onion rings. (Note: It is also appropriate to serve this dish with only grapes or only the onion rings).

Salmon Mousse

For the fish stock:
2 Tablespoons butter
1 medium onion, sliced
675 grams fish heads and bones, broken into pieces
10 whole peppercorns
6 sprigs parsley, chopped coarsely
2 sprigs thyme, chopped coarsely
1 bay leaf
1 cup dry white wine

For the mousse:
1 salmon, about 750 grams
salt and pepper to taste
25 grams unflavored gelatin, soaked in 3 tablespoons of water
2 teaspoons tomato puree
2 Tablespoons Madeira wine or 2 teaspoons cognac
pinch of nutmeg
2/3 cup sweet cream
1 small cucumber for garnish
hot toast for serving

Make the fish stock by melting the butter in a large saucepan. Stir in the onion and saute just until the onion is translucent. and then add the remaining ingredients. Cook over a medium flame, skimming the surface frequently. As soon as the stock begins to boil remove from the flame, lower the flame to a minimum and simmer uncovered for 20 minutes, taking care not to let boil again. Strain, cool and refrigerate if not using immediately.

Rinse and dry the salmon. Place in a medium saucepan and pour over 2 cups of the stock. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, bring to the boil and then lower the flame and let cook, covered just until the fish is cooked (12 - 15 minutes). Remove from the flame and let the fish cool in the stock. (Do not discard the cooking liquids) When the fish has reached room temperature remove it from the stock. Discard the skin and bones and flake the fish.

Bring the cooking liquids to a boil, remove from the flame, add the gelatin and stir until completely dissolved. Let cool until the mixture reaches room temperature.

In a blender or food processor, blend the salmon with the gelatin mixture. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl, stir in the tomato puree, Madeira, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Place the bowl in a larger bowl of ice cold water (use ice cubes if necessary to keep the water cold). Rinse a 4 cup mould with cold water. Stir the salmon mixture until it is cold and on the point of setting. Whip the sweet cream lightly and then fold it into the salmon mixture. Taste and correct the seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary ad pour the mixture into the mould. Cover and chill until firmly set (2 - 2 1/2 hours). (The mousse may be made as long as two days in advance and refrigerated, but should be served at room temperature.

To serve, unmold the mousse 2 - 3 hours before serving by carefully running a knife around the edges and dipping the bottom of the mould in a pan of lukewarm water for several seconds. Unmold onto a serving plate. Garnish the mousse with slices of cucumber and serve with hot toast.

Creamed Mushroom Soup

8 cups chicken or vegetable stock
25 grams dried mushrooms
200 grams champignons or wild mushrooms, sliced thinly
2 Tablespoons butter
2 Tablespoons chives, chopped finely
3 Tablespoons brandy
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup sweet cream

In a saucepan heat 1 cup of the stock and when it is hot add the dried mushrooms. Remove from the flame and let stand for 3 - 4 minutes. With a slotted spoon, remove the mushrooms and then slice them. Strain the stock through a muslin cloth. Reserve the stock and the mushrooms separately.

In a large saucepan melt the butter. Add the dried and fresh mushrooms and saute over a high flame for about 1 minute. Reduce the flame to medium, add the chopped shallots, stir for one minute and then add the brandy and thyme. Stir for 1 minute longer.

To the saucepan with the sauteed mushrooms add the strained stock that was used to soften the dried mushrooms and the remaining stock. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and heat over a medium flame, stirring regularly. In a small saucepan, while the soup is heating, heat the sweet cream just until bubbles begin to appear around the edges. When the soup and cream are hot pour both into a blender and blend for several seconds, just until the soup is light and airy. Serve immediately.

Mutton with String Beans and Pears

1 leg of mutton, about 3 kilos
12 cloves garlic, halved
12 whole cloves
6 firm pears, peeled, cored and halved
3/4 cup corn syrup
1 cup butter, melted
1 kilo string beans
2 cups bacon or fatty pastrami, cut in small cubes
1/4 cup flour, sifted
about 2 cups light cream or 1 cup sweet cream and 1 cup milk, mixed together

Remove the outer skin from the meat and rub well with one of the garlic halves. With a sharp knife, make small slits in the meat and into each slit insert half a garlic clove. Stud the meat with the whole cloves. Transfer the meat, fat side up, to a rack in an oven pan and place in an oven that has been pre-heated to very hot. Immediately reduce the temperature to medium and roast until the meat is done, allowing about 55 minutes per kilo. Do not baste during cooking.

An hour and a half before the meat is done, place the pears in a baking dish with 3 tbs. of water and pour over the corn syrup. Cover and place in the oven and base occasionally with the melted butter.

Trim off the ends of the green beans and, if the beans are particularly long, halve them on the bias. Drop the beans into a large amount of rapidly boiling salted water together with the chicken fat or bacon. Immediately reduce to a low flame, cover lightly and cook just until the beans are tender (about 20 minutes). Drain well.

When the meat is finished cooking remove it from the oven. Also remove the pears and set both aside to keep warm. Prepare a gravy by pouring off all but about 6 Tbsp.. of the drippings from the pan in which the meat was cooked. Place on a low flame and blend the flour into the juices, whisking constantly with a wire whisk until the mixture is well blended and somewhat thickened. Continue cooking over a low flame, stirring constantly, while adding enough light cream to make a total of three cups.

Distribute the beans on a large serving platter together with the salt pork and on these set the mutton. Distribute the pear halves around the edges of the platter. Pour over about 1/2 cup of the gravy and serve the remaining gravy in a sauceboat.

Creamed Hashed Chicken

1/2 kilo cooked chicken, skinned and diced
1/2 kilo mushrooms, diced
1 1/2 cups light cream
1/2 cup sweet red pepper, diced
1 cup chicken fat or butter
6 Tablespoons flour
3 Tablespoons clarified butter
2 Tablespoons dry sherry
3 egg yolks, lightly beaten
toast triangles for serving

In a skillet melt the clarified butter and in this saute the mushrooms, shaking the pan often until the mushrooms are heated through (about 5 minutes).

In a separate skillet melt the chicken fat and to this add the flour, stirring well. Slowly add the cream and, when the sauce is smooth and just at boiling, add the chicken, mushrooms and pimentos. Reduce the flame.

Over the lightly beaten egg yolks pour 3 - 4 Tbsp. of the hot sauce. Stir well and then return the mixture to the hot sauce. Continue cooking over a low flame, stirring frequently, until the mixture thickens slightly. Add and stir in the sherry. Serve at once on the toast points.

Fish Fillets with Duxelles

1 1/2 kilos sole, plaice or other fish fillets
salt and pepper to taste
3 cups duxelles (see following recipe)
1/2 cup tomato sauce
1 1/2 Tablespoons oil
1 1/2 Tablespoons butter
flour as required
2 Tablespoons parsley, chopped
lemon wedges for serving

Season the fillets with salt and pepper and then dredge lightly with flour. In a heavy skillet heat together the oil and butter and in this saute the fillets until done.

In a mixing bowl combine the duxelles with half the tomato sauce and mix gently but well. If the mixture seems dry, add more tomato sauce, just until the mixture is moist but not runny. Distribute the duxelles on a preheated serving platter and on this arrange the fish. Sprinkle over the parsley and pour over the oil and butter that remains in the skillet in which the fish was fried. Serve with the lemon wedges.

Duxelles

This is a recipe so versatile that it is regularly used in the preparation of hors d'oeuvres, soups, vegetables or garnishes. It may also be used in stuffing fish, poultry and meats as well as in making sauces and stocks.

1/4 kilo mushrooms (including the stems), chopped finely
1/4 cup clarified butter
1 onion, chopped finely
4 shallots or the white parts of spring onions, chopped
salt and pepper to taste

Place the chopped mushrooms in a clean cloth, fold over and squeeze out as much of the liquids as possible.

In a skillet melt the butter and in this saute the onion until lightly browned. Add the mushrooms and shallots and stirring often over a high flame, continue to saute until the mushrooms are cooked (5 - 6 minutes). Season to taste with salt and pepper. May be used immediately or may be stored for 2 - 3 weeks if placed in a tightly closed jar and refrigerated. Use as instructed in the specific recipes that follow or in recipes of your own devise. (Yields about 3 cups)

Strawberry Chiffon Cake with Strawberry Sauce

For the Cake:
2 1/2 cups cake flour, sifted
1 1/2 cups sugar
1/2 Tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup cooking oil
6 egg yolks, beaten lightly
3/4 cup finely pureed strawberries
1 teaspoon grated lemon rind
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
6 - 10 egg whites
1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
strawberry or blackberry sauce for serving (recipe follows)

For the Sauce:
1 liter fresh strawberries
3/4 - 1 1/4 cups confectioners' sugar
2 - 3 Tablespoons kirsch liqueur, cognac or lemon juice

Combine the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt and sift the mixture twice.

In a mixing bowl combine the cooking oil, egg yolks, pureed fruit and vanilla extract. Beat these until completely smooth and then fold the mixture into the flour.

Beat the egg whites until foamy and then add the cream of tartar. Continue beating until the egg whites are stiff and then fold the flour, egg and oil mixture gently into the egg whites. Pour the cake into an ungreased 23 x 35 centimeter flat baking pan. Place the pan on a rack in the lower third of the oven that has been preheated to 165 degrees Celsius for 30 - 35 minutes. When the cake is done remove it from the oven and place on a rack to cool.

While the cake is cooling make the sauce: Clean the fruit well, wash and then put through a fine sieve. Add sugar to taste and then beat for 10 minutes with an electric beater. Beat in the kirsch, cognac or lemon juice to taste. To serve, spoon some of the sauce over the cake and serve the remaining sauce separately.

Biscuit Tortoni

1/2 cup milk
2 cups sweet cream
1 cup macaroon cookies, crushed
5 Tablespoons confectioners' sugar, sifted
small pinch salt
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
maraschino cherries for garnish
crushed toasted almonds (unsalted), for garnish

In a mixing bowl combine the milk and « cup of the sweet cream. Add the macaroons, sugar and salt and let stand, covered, for 1 - 2 hours.

Whip the remaining sweet cream until it is just stiff, taking care not to overbeat. Into this fold the macaroon mixture and the vanilla extract and then pour the mixture into 6 or 8 individual dessert glasses. Sprinkle each portion lightly with crushed nuts and on each place a maraschino cherry. Cover the glasses with plastic wrap and place in the freezer until frozen through. Transfer to the regular refrigeration compartment and discard the plastic wrap about 5 minutes prior to serving.

© Daniel Rogov