In all of France, no one has eaten better than Jules Maigret. A generally laconic person, Chief Inspector Maigret of Paris' Police Judiciare is not one of those dedicated gourmets who has devoted his time to searching for the tastiest morsels available. As a detective, he has spent most of his life to searching for murderers. As fortune would have it, however, he merely found himself in a host of places and situations where the most logical thing to do was to accept what was offered to eat or drink.

As this world-famous policeman has always demonstrated a flair for detection, so has he had the natural ability to find the best meals that France has to offer. He may have discovered his special culinary aptitude during his very first case. On an early morning stakeout, he was forced to seek shelter in the Vieux Calvados, a cafe opposite the home of the suspect under surveillance. The cafe seemed to Maigret "like a country inn that had been forgotten when Paris had grown around it." Housed in a long, narrow building, there was a single step that led down to the cool room. "Reflections gleamed here and there on the tin covered counter and where the bottles appeared to have been set in place for ages." Charmed by the setting, Maigret was not particularly surprised when the proprietor suggested a few slices of sausage in wine sauce and a glass of Cognac for breakfast. Maigret enjoyed the sausage and, even though it was the first time he had Cognacat six in the morning, he found it a pleasant treat.

The stakeout was a long one and Maigret spent a fair amount of time in this cafe. At first he was taken aback when the patron insisted that he join him every half hour in drinking a glass of Calvados, that potent apple brandy enjoyed by so many French alcoholics. Maigret settled comfortably into the pattern on realizing that "this was a ritual, a kind of craze with the owner." Maigret also recognized that it was this half-hourly glass that accounted for the owner's "blotched complexion and for the wateriness in which his eyes were constantly swimming." Those who care to read more about the meal or the murder in question will find that Georges Simenon documented the details quite well in Maigret's First Case.?


Of course, some cases and some days provided better culinary fare than others. When Maigret was sent to the town of Lucon as temporary regional superintendent, he was regailed for his first day's lunch with a marvelous shrimp mousse which was followed by an exquisite beef tongue in raisin sauce.

Now retired and, by all calculations, nearing his 100th year, Maigret lives quietly in the provinces (that is to say, outside of Paris). It is said that these days he dines primarily on the good country-style cuisine of Madame Maigret. He also continues to enjoy the preserves his sister-in-law sends from Clermont Fernand. Despite the continued warnings of his doctor, he continues to make his way into the village at least once daily, there to sip two or more glasses of the dry white wine that everyone tells him will one day harm his kidneys.

Maigret is more than a great detective. He remains known throughout France as a charming, sensitive man who has earned the respect of his colleagues as well as of the rogues with whom his profession has brought him into contact. It may well have been his special brand of quiet diligence, especially in the ability to search out good food, that so endeared Maigret to the hearts of the French, a feat especially impressive when one considers the usual attitude that these good folk hold towards their policemen.


Sausage with Wine

1/2 kilo well spiced sausages, sliced 1 cm thick
6 Tbsp. dry white wine
2 pimentos, cut in strips
2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
3 - 4 cloves garlic, minced

In a large heavy skillet saute the sausages until lightly browned.

Pour off most of the fat, pour in the wine and with a wooden spoon scrape the pan well over a low flame. Add the remaining ingredients and transfer the mixture to a small earthenware casserole. Bake in a medium oven for l5 minutes. Serve hot. (Serves 4 for breakfast or 2 for lunch).

Shrimp Mousse

1 bouquet garni, made by tying together 3 sprigs parsley, 2 sprigs thyme and 1 bay leaf
1 onion, peeled but whole
450 gr. shrimps
1 Tbsp. powdered gelatin
1/2 cup each apple and celery, both minced
salt and paprika to taste
dash of Tabasco
1 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup lemon juice
l tsp. dry mustard
1/2 cup sweet cream
cucumber slices for garnish

In a saucepan bring a large amount of lightly salted water to a boil. Add the bouquet garni and onion and return to the boil. Add the shrimps and boil gently just until the shrimps turn pink (3 - 4 minutes). Let the shrimps cool and then peel and remove the veins from the shrimps. Chop the shrimps coarsely.

Dissolve the gelatin in ½ cup of hot water.

In a mixing bowl, combine the celery, apple, shrimps, salt, paprika and Tabasco. In a small mixing bowl combine the mayonnaise, lemon juice and dry mustard and into this pour the gelatin mixture, mixing well.

Whip the cream until stiff and then fold into the mayonnaise dressing. Fold this into the shrimp mixture and stir together gently but well. Transfer the ingredients to a 23 cm. ring mold which has been pre-dampened. Chill thoroughly and served cold on a well chilled serving plate. Garnish with thin cucumber slices. (Serves 6).

Beef in Raisin Sauce

1 fresh beef tongue, about 1 kilo
2 large onions, halved
2 medium carrots, halved lengthwise
4 stalks celery, with leaves
6 sprigs parsley
8 whole peppercorns
1/2 cup blanched almonds
3 Tbsp. flour
1 cup seedless raisins
1/4 cup crushed ginger snap cookies
1 tsp. lemon rind, grated
salt and pepper to taste

Place the tongue in a large kettle and add the onions, carrots, celery, parsley and peppercorns. Just cover with boiling water and simmer, uncovered, until the tongue is tender (about 3 hours). Remove the tongue and run under cold water for several minutes. Under running water peel the tongue and trim off the fat, reserving 6 Tbsp. of the fat. Reserve the stock in which the tongue was cooked.

Split the almonds and simmer them in a saucepan with 2 cups of water for 20 minutes. Add the raisins and simmer 1/2 hour longer. Strain the sauce, reserving the liquids and solids separately.

In a heavy skillet melt the reserved fat and to this add the flour slowly, stirring until blended. Gradually add the raisins and almonds, the almond liquid and enough of the reserved stock to make 3 1/2 cups in all. To this add the crushed ginger snaps and lemon rind. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Pour part of the sauce over the tongue and serve the remainder in a sauceboat. (Serves 6 - 8).

© Daniel Rogov