During a recent trip to Monte Carlo, I could not resist a visit to Le Jimmy'z, which, despite or perhaps because of its odd spelling, many Europeans consider the most "in" discotheque in Europe. It is certainly the most expensive, with a minimum charge of FFr 300. What I thought of the behavior of the rich and the beautiful there is not important. I did, however, profit by my visit, because as I sat at the bar Marie-Jeanne, one of the bartenders decided to share her philosophy of automobiles with me. At least according to Marie-Jeanne, people who drive BMW's drink tequila; those who drive Ferraris drink vodka; those with Lambhorghinis drink either Scotch whiskey or cognac; and those with what she considered "real cars like Rolls Royces and Bentleys" drink Irish Whiskey.

Not too many people of us ordinary folk have Ferraris, Lambhorginis or Rolls Royces, but there is a good chance that tequila and Scotch whiskey may be on the way out as the most popular bar-drinks in the country and the consumption of Irish whiskey, both in pubs and in private homes is definitely on the rise.

The best whiskeys from Ireland and Scotland have many things in common. Both are made from pure spring water and barley, both are made in similarly designed copper distilling vats, and both are aged in oak casks. Despite these similarities, there are major differences in how the Irish and the Scotch make their whiskey. The barley used to make Scotch whiskey is dried over peat fires, which gives the finished product its distinctive smoky flavor, and that used in making Irish whiskey is dried in the sun. Equally important, while Scotch whiskey is distilled twice, Irish whiskey is triple distilled, adding a unique depth, a richer color and additional overlays of flavor. A more minor difference is that whereas the Irish spell the name of their beverage with an "e", Scots and the British do not.

The brands of Irish whiskey best known until recently have been those of Jameson, Bushmill and Tullemore Dew. The more recent arrivals, all produced by the Cooley Distillery Company, come from three of their quasi-independent distilleries, Tyrconnel, Kilbeggan and Connemara. Following are my evaluations of each of these. As always scores are based on a maximum of 100 points, those beverages rated 90 - 100 being those I consider outstanding and those that earn 80 - 89 being good to excellent. Scores of between 70 - 79 indicate beverages that are average and at least somewhat faulted. Beverages scoring under 70 are not recommended.

Connemara: Produced by the Cooley Distillery in Rivertown, and Ireland's only peat dried single malt whiskey, this exquisitely balanced and clean beverage is potent and packs quite a wallop. So heavily overlaid with smoky peatiness, this whiskey is not to everybody's taste, but aficionados agree that its intrinsic balance together with honey and oak flavors and a hint of heather in the aromas are without fault. NIS 240. Score 92.

The Tyrconnell: Produced by the small Andrew Watt and Co in Riverston since 1762, this single malt whiskey has enchanting aromas of malt, tropical fruit and spices, a vaguely sweet creamy flavors and a tempting smoothness and balance. NIS 165. Score 90.

Bushmill: Deep blonde in color and remarkably smooth on the palate, and with lots of spices in its flavors (including cinnamon, allspice and black pepper), all overlaid by a hint of butterscotch and a light nutty flavor, this is a remarkably smooth whiskey. NIS 144. Score 90.

Jameson: Highly aromatic, with an attractive dark color and a sweet bouquet in which one finds honey and vanilla, and roasted nuts and corn in its rich flavors, and with a hint of caramel in the finish, this is a creamy smooth and justifiably popular brand. NIS 144. Score 89.

Kilbeggan: Distilled by John Locke in the village for which it is named, this pale, butter colored whiskey has lots of flowers in its aromas, and boasts elegant but light flavors that include caramel roasted corn, vanilla and juniper berries. NIS 105. Score 88.

Tullemore Dew: Categorized as a light whiskey, and thus pale blonde rather than golden in color, with lighter and less pronounced aromas and a slightly lower alcoholic content than its competitors. With aromas of violets and brown sugar, and floral and honey flavors, the whiskey has an attractive and long, spicy finish. NIS 100. Score 86.

How To Drink It

Most connoisseurs agree that adding water or soda to Irish whiskey is a sin, for this dilutes its rich flavor. My own preference for a before dinner drink is to drink Irish whiskey neat in a small glass, with a glass of water on the side. After dinner I enjoy it most when served as "Irish coffee". Although there are fancier versions, the original and in my opinion the best version of Irish coffee, which was made famous at San Francisco's Buena Vista Cafe after World War II is made by rinsing a coffee cup or mug with very hot water, shaking it dry, adding one teaspoon of sugar, pouring in a generous measure of Irish whiskey and then pouring over strong very hot coffee. After the drink is stirred to dissolve the sugar, it should be topped with a generous tablespoon of whipped cream. Some, especially in New York, Detroit, Liverpool and Marseilles, toss down a glass of Irish whiskey and then wash that down with a glass of cold beer. Personally, I find that a waste of good whiskey and good beer.

© Daniel Rogov