When Roman governor Flavious Silva, led the 10th Roman Legion and marched against the zealot stronghold on Masada in 72 C.E., he ensured that the name of this hill overlooking the Dead Sea would be forever associated with tragedy. What is not so broadly known is that somewhat over a century before this, Masada served as the site of one of the most luxurious palaces ever constructed in the Middle East.

In 40 BC, when Herod fled from Jerusalem to escape from Mettathias Antigonus who had been made king by the Parthians, it was to Masada that he went. After installing his family in rough quarters, Herod visited Rome. Upon his return, according to the Jewish historian Josephus, "he built there a fortress as a refuge, suspecting a twofold danger: peril on the one hand from the Jews lest they should depose him and restore their former dynasty to power; and the even more serious threat posed by Cleopatra, Queen of Egypt." Between 37 and 31 BC, Herod transformed the rock of Masada into a mighty fortress. What Josephus fails to mention is that Herod also transformed it into a palace where pleasures of every sort might be freely pursued.

It must be understood that the pleasure of wealthy Romans involved three things: food, wine and ribald behavior. Thus, following precedents established by Lucullus and Alexander, Masada became renowned for its ten hour banquets - feasts where a party might begin with hors d'oeuvres of chickens, ducks, geese, hares, pigeons, turtledoves, partridges and young goats. This was followed lowed traditionally with entertainment provided by dancers and then by a second course of pigs stuffed with thrushes, ducks, warblers, pea puree, oysters and scallops, all consumed to the accompaniment of troupes of acrobats tumbling among swords, juggling and breathing fire from their mouths.

Later courses included roast boars and oxen and then, when the eating tapered off, the drinking began in earnest. Based on traditions adopted from the Greeks, such feasts were traditionally divided into two parts - the first, in which one primarily ate and the second, the symposium, in which one primarily drank, talked or otherwise amused himself. Modern day students and professors will be pleased to know that the original symposium (Greek for "drinking party") properly began at the end of eating. When this habit was first adopted, Xenophon wrote that "drink, discussion and various games were equal parts of the well conducted symposium."

One may have noted that to this point there has been nothing mentioned about the presence of women at the dining table. This is because Roman men had determined that feasting was an activity too important to be shared with women. When they finally decided to allow women to join them it was not so much out of a sense of fairness but because they thought that female companionship would be good for the digestion.

As to etiquette and specific eating habits, both the rich and the poor ate with their fingers, wiping their hands on morsels of bread that were then tossed to the dogs. The wealthy dipped their fingers in perfumed water or wine between courses and actually evolved the custom of the napkin, each guest bringing his own, not so much to clean the fingers but in order to pack it full of food to carry home what could not be consumed at the table.

Although many of the dishes the Romans enjoyed would not be judged particularly delicate today, several dishes have maintained their popularity to the current day. The following recipes, some described by Josephus and others by Apicius, will provide a sampling of some of the better Roman dishes known to have been served at Masada. Each of the recipes is designed for 6, but taken as a whole, the dishes will provide a comfortable meal for 8 - 10.

Chickens Braised in Cider

8 small sage leaves
2 very small chickens (or 4 pigeons)
2 Tbsp. chicken or pork fat
1 medium onion, chopped coarsely
1 carrot, chopped coarsely
1 small turnip, chopped coarsely
2 cups apple cider or apple juice
1 bouquet garni made by tying together 3 sprigs of parsley, 2 sprigs of thyme and 1/2 bay leaf
1/4 cup parsley, chopped

Divide the sage leaves into equal portions and place them inside the cavity of the birds. Sew the birds closed.

In a large flameproof casserole melt the fat over a high flame and in this brown the birds well. Remove the birds and reduce the flame. Add the onion, carrot and turnip, cover and let cook for 5 - 6 minutes. On the vegetables place the birds and then pour over the cider. Bring to a boil, add the bouquet garni, cover and transfer to a medium oven for 2 hours.

Remove the birds from the casserole and set aside to keep warm. Strain the liquids in the casserole, pressing down on the vegetables to squeeze out the liquids. Place the birds on a pre-warmed serving platter, pour over some of the juices and sprinkle over the parsley. Serve the remaining juices separately. (Serves 4).

Marbelized Eggs

the yellow peel of 6 large onions
1/2 cup salt
1/4 cup soy sauce
12 hard boiled eggs

In a saucepan with 6 cups of water boil the onion peels until the water turns a deep yellowish-brown. Add the salt and let the mixture cool. Stir well and add the soy sauce.

Tap the egg shells gently and roll them between the hands to crack the shells all over. Do not peel. Place the eggs in a wide-mouthed jar and pour over the brine, covering. Cover the jar and refrigerate for 24 - 48 hours. Shell the eggs just before serving.

Plums in Honey and Wine

honey as required
18 plums with stems intact
1 bottle sherry or Madeira wine
1 1/2 tsp. grated nutmeg
1/2 tsp each mace and ginger, ground
3 whole cloves
2 sticks cinnamon, about 8 cm. long each

Pour enough honey into a large, shallow earthenware casserole to cover to a depth of 1 cm. Place the plums in the honey, separated so they do not touch.

In a saucepan combine the wine, nutmeg, ginger, mace, cloves and cinnamon. Bring to a boil and let boil until the volume of the wine is reduced by half. Remove the cinnamon sticks and cloves and pour the mixture over the plums. If the plums are not fully covered, add wine as necessary. Cover and refrigerate for 24 - 48 hours. Allow to come to room temperature before serving.

Boned Braised Goose

675 gr. spicy sausage meat
1/2 kilo minced lamb
the liver of the goose, chopped finely
2 Tbsp. butter
1 medium onion, chopped finely
1/4 cup dry sherry
1 Tablespoons thyme, chopped
4 sage leaves, chopped
pinch of allspice
1/2 cup parsley, chopped
1 goose, about 3 - 3 1/2 kilos, boned out
2 medium onions, sliced
2 carrots, sliced
3 stalks celery, chopped coarsely
1 small turnip, chopped coarsely
1 bouquet garni made by tying together 4 sprigs of parsley, 2 sprigs of fresh thyme and « bay leaf
12 peppercorns
1 cup dry red wine
2 cups chicken stock or stock made from the bones of the goose
pinch of nutmeg

Combine the sausage meat, lamb, liver, chopped onion, sherry, thyme, sage, allspice, and 1 Tbsp. of the parsley and mix well. Lay the boned goose out flat and cover it with this mixture. Shape the goose and sew it closed.

In a large flameproof casserole melt the butter. To this add the sliced onions, carrots, celery and turnip. Place over a very low flame for 5 minutes and then place the goose on these. Add the bouquet garni and peppercorns and pour in the red wine and 1 cup of the stock. Bring to a boil and then remove from the flame. Cover the casserole and transfer to an oven that has been pre-heated to medium-hot oven for 2 hours.

Transfer the goose to a ovenproof dish and return to the oven, uncovered, for 20 minutes longer.

Strain the juices from the casserole and skim well. Place 1 1/2 - 2 cups of the strained liquids into a saucepan with the nutmeg and remaining parsley. Simmer for 2 - 3 minutes and transfer to a sauce boat. The goose may be served hot or cold, but the gravy should be served hot. (It may be reheated if necessary).

Rice Pudding

3 cups milk
1 1/2 Tbsp. almonds, ground
1 1/2 Tbsp. orange rind, grated
1/2 cup uncooked rice, well washed
3 eggs, separated
3 Tablespoons butter
1 1/4 cups brown sugar
3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 Tbsp. candied fruits
whipped cream for serving

In the top of a double boiler combine the milk, almonds and grated orange rind and bring slowly to a boil. Add the rice and cook over but not in boiling water, stirring frequently for 1 hour.

Beat the egg yolks lightly. Remove the rice from the heat, stir in the butter and then add the egg yolks gradually, stirring constantly. Mix the brown sugar and vanilla and add these to the rice mixture. Allow to cool for about 20 minutes.

Beat the egg whites stiff and fold them into the cooled rice mixture. Transfer the mixture to a buttered casserole or individual ovenproof custard dishes and place in a low oven, in a pan of hot water. Bake until the pudding is well set (about 30 minutes). Garnish with the candied fruits and serve hot or cold with a generous portion of whipped cream.

Fried Figs

16 firm black figs, peeled
1/2 cup dark rum
1/4 cup flour
vegetable oil for frying

Soak the figs in the rum for 1 - 2 hours, turning often.

In a small mixing bowl dissolve the flour in 1/4 cup of water, stirring until smooth and creamy. Into this batter dip the figs, coating thoroughly.

In a heavy skillet heat about 1 cm. of oil and in this fry the figs until golden brown on all sides. Serve hot.

© Daniel Rogov