Herod the Great was a man who enjoyed eating well and, two thousand years ago, during the time he served as the Roman governor of Jerusalem, he was famous for the quality of the feasts he served his guests. Even then there was no shortage of fish, lamb, vegetables and fruits in the Holy Land. If Herod had any culinary complaint at all, it was that he was a man with a passion for apricots and there was not an apricot tree within a thousand kilometers of Jerusalem.

Herod so dearly loved these fruits that he went to enormous expense to ensure that they would be on hand all year round. In the spring he imported them from Italy, in the summer from Armenia and in the winter from Algeria. In the autumn, when there were no fresh apricots anywhere in the world, he made do with jams and preserves. Over a twenty year period his various cooks devised more than two hundred apricot-based recipes.

Over the years, many local beliefs have developed about these delicious fruits. Bedouin women living in the Negev Dessert say that tea made from apricot pits increases fertility; the male members of the Samarian sect consider apricot juice good for longevity; and many Israelis take the gift of apricots to be a sign of true friendship. Many recent Israeli immigrants from the Republic of Georgia consider it a sign of good luck, when announcing one's engagement, for the man to give his future parents-in-law a basket of fresh apricots or, if they are out of season, a large jar of apricot preserves.

It took nearly 1850 years after Herod's death in 4 A.D. until apricot trees were first planted in Israel. Planted primarily on the kibbutzim on the shores of the Sea of Galilee and those in the Sharon Valley, apricots have thrived here. In addition to being popular locally, either fresh, preserved or for use in cooking, Israeli apricots are now so highly prized that they are now exported to twelve European and six African nations.

Apricots are still available from Armenia, but the easiest way to get them, in Israel or nearly anyplace else, is to walk to your local greengrocer's. Wherever one lives in the world, the apricot season is a relatively short one, so it is wise to take advantage of their availability nearly as soon as they appear on the market. The following recipes, each of which is designed to serve 4 - 6 will be useful even when the apricot season is over, because any recipe calling for the use of apricots may also be used with apricots.

Lamb Meatballs in Apricot Sauce

1 kilo lean lamb, minced
rind of 1 large orange, grated finely
1 medium red pepper, seeded and chopped finely
1/2 cup seedless raisins, chopped
2 - 3 large cloves of garlic, crushed
1/2 tsp. each oregano, tarragon and rosemary, mixed together
salt and pepper to taste
3 egg yolks
3/4 cup each orange juice and olive oil
1/4 cup dry red wine
1 medium onion, chopped finely
750 gr. apricots, seeded and chopped
3/4 cup dry white wine
1 1/2 Tbsp. each chopped mint and honey

In a mixing bowl combine the lamb, orange rind, red pepper, raisins, garlic, mixed spices, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix well and then work in the egg yolks. Knead the mixture by hand and then divide into 30 equal portions, shaping each into a round ball. Place the balls in a shallow dish

Mix together the orange juice, red wine and 8 Tbsp. of the oil and spoon this over the meatballs. Cover and marinate, refrigerated, for 4 - 6 hours, turning gently several times.

Make an apricot sauce by heating the remaining olive oil in a skillet and in this sauteeing the onion just until translucent. Add the apricots, white wine, mint and honey and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Set aside to keep hot.

Remove the meatballs from the marinade and drain, reserving the marinade. Thread the meatballs onto skewers and brush with the marinade. Cook under a hot broiler or over hot charcoals until done (8 - 10 minutes), turning once and brushing with the remaining marinade. Serve with the hot apricot sauce.

Apricot and Rice Salad

1/4 kilo uncooked rice
1 piece of ginger, about 1" (2 1/2 cm.) long, peeled or 1/2 tsp. of powdered ginger
black pepper to taste
2 Tbsp. lemon juice
2 - 3 shallots (or greens of spring onions), chopped
1/2 tsp. ground coriander seeds
1/4 tsp. nutmeg
about 1 Tbsp. olive oil
8 apricots, pitted and halved
1/2 cup seedless raisins
1/4 cup almonds or toasted pine nuts

Boil the rice in the usual fashion in lightly salted water together with the ginger just until the rice is tender. Drain well, remove and discard the ginger piece and, while still warm season with black pepper to taste and then add the shallots, coriander and nutmeg. Stir in just enough olive oil to make the rice moist and then add the apricots and raisins. Garnish with the roasted almonds or pine nuts and serve warm.

Apricot Souffle

3 Tbsp. each butter and flour
1 cup milk
6 Tbsp. sugar
1 cup pureed cooked apricots
4 egg yolks
2 Tbsp. kirsch liqueur
6 egg whites
1/4 tsp. salt
1 tsp. confectioners' sugar

In a large saucepan melt the butter. To this add the flour and cook for 3 minutes, stirring constantly, but not allowing the mixture to brown. In a separate saucepan scald the milk together with the sugar. Pour the milk into the flour and butter, stirring briskly and then simmer for 4 - 5 minutes. Remove from the flame and let cool.

To the cool mixture add the apricot puree and then beat in the egg yolks, one at a time. Add the kirsch. In a separate container combine the egg whites and salt and beat them until they are stiff but not dry and then fold the egg whites into the apricot mixture. Pour into a 6 cup buttered and sugared souffle mold and bake in an oven that has been preheated to 400 degrees Fahrenheit (200 Celsius) for 20 minutes. Gently open the oven door, sprinkle the souffle with the confectioners' sugar and bake 8 - 10 minutes longer. Serve immediately.

Apricot Ice Cream

1/2 kilo apricots, halved and pitted
1/2 cup dry white wine
125 gr. sugar
1 cup sweet cream, unbeaten
1 stick vanilla, about 1" (2 1/2 cm) long
3 egg yolks
1/2 cup sweet cream beaten until thick but not yet whipped

Place the apricots in a saucepan with the white wine and half the sugar and cook gently, covered, until the apricots are tender.

Make a custard by combining the unbeaten cream and vanilla into in a pan and bringing just to the boil. Remove immediately from the flame. Beat the egg yolks together gently with the remaining sugar and whisk this mixture into the strained scalded cream.

Transfer this custard mixture to the top of a double boiler and over but not in hot water stir constantly until the mixture will coat the back of a wooden spoon. Let cool.

Mash the cooked apricots and then whip into a puree and combine with the custard. Fold the whipped cream into the apricot custard, transfer the mixture to ice trays and place in the freezer compartment. When the mixture is half frozen remove from the freezer, mash and mix gently and return to the freezer. Let freeze again about half-way and mash again and mix. Transfer the mixture to individual dessert glasses and return to the freezer until thoroughly frozen. Transfer the glasses to the regular refrigerator compartment about 15 minutes before serving.

Spiced Apricots

1/2 kilo firm apricots
1 1/4 cups sugar
1 cup cider vinegar
6 whole cloves
2 sticks cinnamon

Dip each apricot in boiling water for 4 - 5 seconds and then peel.

In a large saucepan mix together the sugar, vinegar and cloves. Boil, covered, for 5 minutes. Lower the flame, add the apricots and simmer, covered, until they are just tender (about 10 - 15 minutes).

Transfer the apricots and liquids to a sterile wide-mouthed jar, add the cinnamon sticks and seal immediately. Let stand 2 - 3 days before serving.

Apricots with Custard Sauce

5 cups sugar
3 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
8 - 12 apricots, pitted, halved and peeled
8 egg yolks
pinch of salt
2 1/2 cups milk, boiled

In a saucepan bring 2 cups of water to the boil and in this dissolve 4 cups of the sugar. Strain and filter this syrup into the top of a double boiler, add 3 tsp. of the vanilla extract and place over but not in boiling water. Place the apricots, cut side down, in the syrup, cover and cook gently for 8 - 10 minutes. Drain the apricots and transfer to small dessert plates.

In the top of a double boiler over but not in simmering water blend together the egg yolks, remaining sugar and salt until the syrup forms a ribbon when the spatula is lifted from the pan. Gradually add the boiled milk which has been flavored with the remaining vanilla extract. Pour the custard through a fine sieve and then spoon the custard over the apricots. Serve immediately.

Apricot Chutney

1 kilo apricots, peeled, pitted and diced
1 onion, minced
1 large clove garlic, crushed
2 cups white vinegar
1 1/4 cups firmly packed light brown sugar
1 cup raisins
6 Tbsp. crystallized ginger, chopped very finely (can be bought in health food stores and in many delicatessens)
2 tsp. mustard seeds
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 tsp. ground allspice
1/2 tsp. hot red pepper flakes
about 1 tsp. salt

In a large saucepan combine all of the ingredients and bring to a boil, skimming the froth occasionally, and then simmer the mixture gently, skimming the surface often and stirring occasionally until the mixture is thick and brown (45 minutes - 1 hour). Ladle the mixture into heat-proof sterile jars, filling to 1 cm. of the top of the jars. Wipe the rims of the jars with a damp cloth and seal the jars with the lids.

Place the jars on a rack in a deep pot and pour over enough hot water to cover the jars by about 5 cm. Bring the water to a boil and then let boil for 10 minutes. Let the jars cool and then store them in a cool, dark place. Goes superbly with grilled meats, Indian food and nearly all rice dishes.

Apricots in Dessert Wine

4 large ripe apricots, peeled, halved and sliced
1 - 1 1/2 cups sweet white dessert wine
4 tsp. confectioners' sugar
juice of 2 lemons

Distribute the apricot slices between 4 dessert glasses. Over each apricot sprinkle 1 tsp. of the confectioners' sugar and squeeze the juice of 1/2 lemon. Cover and refrigerate. Immediately before serving pour over just enough of the wine to cover the fruit. (Serves 4).

© Daniel Rogov