Because Morocco, Tunisia and Algeria are situated in the Maghreb, the northwestern corner of Africa, many Europeans mistakenly think that their cuisine is identical. Even the generally reliable Larousse Gastronomique makes no distinction between the cookery of the three nations, tossing them grab-bag like, into the category of "Arab Cookery".

While it is true that couscous is the most famous dish of each of these nations, even this dish has wide variations in style of preparation and ingredients, depending on where it is prepared. The couscous (semolina) itself is always steamed in a colander, but here the similarities end.

Algerian versions of the stew will almost always rely on tomatoes; Tunisian couscous will be especially spicy; and the Moroccan version will include saffron. If there is a "more sophisticated version" it is surely the Moroccan, for in addition to using zucchini squash, cabbage, turnips, celery and onions to complement the beef and chicken stew, this couscous will also be served with side dishes of spiced chickpeas, mutton meatballs, hot sauce, several varieties of sausages and fried eggplant.

Although the best dishes of Morocco have their roots in peasant and working-class homes, this is not a cuisine that lacks sophistication. The subtle use of spices and herbs and the frequent combination of meat and fruit make for an interesting and tasty table. And, as in many Moslem nations, because pork is a forbidden product, the Jews of Morocco had little trouble in making this cuisine their own.

In perusing the recipes for the dinner that follows, one should not be surprised to find almonds used in three of the dishes. Sometimes used as a fruit, sometimes as a seasoning and sometimes as a condiment, the effect of the almonds is quite different in each case. The dinner is designed to serve 4.

The Appetizer

Fried Olives w Mushrooms

250 gr. green olives, pitted and chopped finely
250 gr. mushrooms, cleaned and chopped finely
1/2 cup breadcrumbs
1 large onion, chopped coarsely
3 Tbsp. olive oil
1 hot red pepper, chopped finely
2 cloves garlic
1/2 tsp. black pepper
toast points or cocktail crackers for serving

In a skillet heat the oil and in this saute the onions until translucent. Add the mushrooms, hot pepper and garlic and continue sauteeing until the onions are golden brown. Add the breadcrumbs and olives and saute for 2 - 3 minutes longer, stirring constantly. (Add a bit of olive oil if the mixture becomes overly dry). Serve hot on toast points or cocktail crackers.

The Soup
Bean and Almond Soup
Assida

100 gr. each dried white haricot beans and ground almonds
3 cups chicken stock
1 cup dry white wine
2 leeks, whites only, halved, cleaned and chopped coarsely
2 tsp. extra fine sugar
2 - 3 cloves garlic, minced
salt and pepper to taste
1 Tbsp. chopped almonds for garnish

Soak the beans in cold water overnight. Drain the beans, transfer to a saucepan with the chicken stock, bring to the boil and then reduce the flame and simmer gently for 20 minutes.

Add the ground almonds, leeks, garlic, wine, sugar and salt and pepper to taste and continue to simmer gently, covered, for 25 minutes longer. Put the soup through a sieve, pushing through as much as possible. Add a bit more stock to thin if necessary. Transfer to a serving tureen, cover and chill for about 6 hours. Serve well chilled.

The Main and Side Dishes

Chicken with Almonds
Djej bi Looz

1 chicken, about 1 1/2 kilos, quartered
2 medium onions, chopped
100 gr. whole blanched almonds
about 1/2 cup olive oil
4 hard boiled eggs, halved
2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
8 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 tsp. pepper or more to taste
pinch or two of saffron salt as required

Make a paste by grinding together 1 Tbsp. of the salt and half the garlic cloves. With this mixture rub the chicken parts on all sides. Rinse well and then pat dry with paper toweling. In a mortar combine the remaining garlic with the parsley and pound to a paste. Moisten the mixture with 1 Tbsp. of the olive oil and add the saffron and pepper. With this mixture rub the chicken thoroughly. Cover and refrigerate for about 24 hours.

In a heavy flameproof casserole heat 4 Tbsp. of the oil and in this saute the onion until just golden. Add the chicken and continue to saute until the chicken is golden brown on all sides. Add about 2 cups of water, bring to the boil, cover, reduce the flame and simmer gently for about 45 minutes, turning the chicken several times. Add water if necessary to prevent the casserole from drying out.

In a skillet heat 1 Tbsp. oil and in this fry the almonds until golden brown. Drain on paper toweling. To serve, spoon the almonds over the chicken, garnish with the hard boiled eggs and serve hot.

Fried Beet Greens

the greens and stems from 1 kilo beets
6 Tbsp. olive oil
1/4 cup lemon juice
4 - 6 cloves garlic, crushed
salt and pepper to taste

Wash the beet greens well, shake dry and cut into 1" (2 1/2 cm) long pieces. Transfer to a saucepan, pour over water to cover and boil just until tender (about 5 - 6 minutes). Drain and squeeze out the excess water.

In a skillet heat the oil and in this saute the garlic for 1 - 2 minutes. Add the beet tops and continue to saute over a low flame for 15 minutes longer. Stir in the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper and cook over a very low flame for 5 minutes longer. May be served hot or chilled.

Orange Rice

1/2 cup each uncooked rice, orange juice and chopped celery
3 Tbsp. butter
2 Tbsp. onion, chopped coarsely
1 Tbsp. parsley, chopped coarsely
rind of 1/2 orange, chopped
1/2 tsp. salt

In a skillet melt the butter. Add the celery, onion, parsley and orange rind and saute for 5 minutes on a low flame. Add the orange juice, 1/2 cup water and salt. Bring to a boil. Slowly stir in the rice, reduce to a low flame, cover and boil until the rice is tender and the liquids are absorbed (20 - 25 minutes). Fluff just before serving.

The Dessert

Stuffed Dates

375 gr. dates, pitted
1 cup each peeled, ground almonds and sugar
about 1/4 cup confectioners' sugar
1 egg white

Mix the ground almonds, sugar and egg white together. Put this mixture in a skillet and cook over a low flame, stirring constantly, until the mixture becomes sticky. Add 1 tsp water and cook 1 minute longer. Remove from the flame and let cool for several minutes. With this mixture stuff the dates and roll in confectioners' sugar. Serve while the filling is hot or at room temperature.

© Daniel Rogov