Daniel Rogov's
Atavistic Pleasures

Many gourmets consider spareribs the most tasty and versatile cut of pork. The narrow end of the ribs, spareribs are fatty and need slow cooking and, when spread with honey, pepper and other piquant cooking liquids and sauces they can be absolutely delicious. Following are my recommendations not only for dining on spare ribs but for dishes to accompany them.

No one will deny the occasional atavistic pleasure that can be gained by ignoring knives and forks and relying entirely on the fingers to eat. No food is more appropriate for calling forth such pleasures than spare ribs, which not only defy the use of knife and fork but also come spread with cooking
sauces and liquids that must then be licked off the fingers. Following are my recommendations
not only for dining on spare ribs but for dishes to accompany them, all of which will also prove
best when eaten with the fingers.

Black Steer: Rehov Yochanan ha Sandlar 3, Herzliya-Pituach, and in Rosh Pina (opposite the police station): For one huge appetite or two moderate appetites, order the 650 gram portion of the delicious spare ribs which have a delicious semi-sweet glaze of honey and spices. With these have one, two or more portions of the crisp, greaseless and delicious fried onion rings. Reservations not required. Tel: Rosh Pina - 06 6936250, Herzliya - 09 9557464.

Peking: Yad Harutzim 13, Tel Aviv. These Chinese style spare ribs have a nice touch of sweetness
and just a hint of hotness, and their slowly cooked, just fatty enough meat is tender and full of flavor. The crisply fried black mushroom rolls, may be more like Moroccan cigars than Chinese egg rolls, but they make an excellent accompaniment. (Can also be ordered for home delivery. Tel 03: 6396887).

Yin Yang: Sederot Rothschild 64, Tel Aviv: Coated with a honey and garlic sauce, the Chinese style spare ribs here are always excellent. As accompanying courses consider the chicken and lychee
salad and the cold sliced pork with garlic sauce, both of which are unbeatable. Reservations
recommended. Telephone 03: 5606833.

Stanley's: 3 Horkenos, Jerusalem. Spare ribs in a friendly South African style, marinated and served with an appealing bitter orange sauce. Open daily 12:00 - 24:00 Tel: 02 6259459.

HaKdira Shel Noga (Noga's Casserole): Moshav Beit Sha'arim (on the Haifa-Nazereth Road).
Country style cuisine without a single note of falsity. Spare-ribs done in the North Italian style, in a spicy marinade before being cooked over hot charcoals. Delicious. Open daily 12:00 - 24:00. Tel 04 983-0730

Pet Youl: Rehov HaTsorfim 14, Jaffa. Inimate and attractive, with a laid-back and even "funky" kind of formality with juicy spare ribs with baby eggplants and a just salty enough goats' milk cheese to compliment the sweet mustard-rich sauce that accompanies the dish. Outstanding. Daily 13:00 - 23:00. Tel. 03 5186204.

© Daniel Rogov

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