Anyone who in either friendship or hatred has ever stated that "all Jews are alike" need look no further to disprove this rather silly hypothesis than the kitchens of those who have come from backgrounds that are Ashkenazi and Sepharadi. All of those jokes that Woody Allen and Groucho Marx have told about chicken soup and gefilte fish relate entirely to the Ashkenazi kitchen, and all of the songs that Yves Montand and Edith Piaf sang about couscous and chreimeh (the spicy fish of Morocco) were about the foods of Sepharadis.

Let's not kid ourselves! The foods most beloved in the homes of those Sepharadim who trace their familial roots to Greece, North Africa, Yemen and Ethiopia are vastly different than those that of those Ashkenazim whose parents or grandparents grew up in Russia or the shtetls of Poland, Hungary and Romania. All of which can lead to some marvelously heated discussions but, if the truth be told anyone who claims that this cuisine or that is "better" is simply foolish, for both offer dishes that can serve either as the heartland of nostalgia (Moroccan cigars, gefilte fish, cholent with or without kishke and couscous with lamb, for example) or as a paean of praise to the delicacy, sophistication and luxury of the dishes that have evolved from many lands over many centuries.

Following are several recipes, some from the Sepharadi and some from the Ashkenazi kitchen, any of which will sit comfortably on the tables of any of us who enjoy fine good.

Stuffed Fennel Bulbs
From the Jewish Kitchens of Tunisia

6 fennel bulbs, well washed
675 gr. minced beef or lamb
3 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
1 1/2 tsp. tabil spice mixture (recipe follows)
1 tsp. black pepper
salt to taste
6 Tbsp. olive oil
3 eggs, lightly beaten
2 Tbsp. dried breadcrumbs
375 gr. spicy tomato sauce

Cut off the hard bases of the fennel bulbs and cook in lightly salted water just until tender (about 15 minutes). Drain and cut in half lengthwise.

In a mixing bowl combine the meat, parsley, tabil, pepper and salt to taste. Blend thoroughly. In a skillet heat the oil and in
this fry the mixture until well browned. Let cool and then mix in the eggs and breadcrumbs.

Place 6 of the fennel halves cut side up on a greased baking dish and onto these pile the filling. Top with the remaining fennel halves, spoon over the tomato sauce and place in a hot oven to bake for 20 minutes. Serve hot. (Serves 6 as a first course, 3 - 4 as a main course)

Tabil Spice Mixture

This is the most popular Tunisian spice mixture and is used to season meat or poultry, stuffings and vegetables. To make the mixture combine 2 1/2 tsp. each finely chopped garlic, ground caraway seeds, crushed hot red pepper flakes and ground coriander seeds. The mixture may be made as hot or mild as one likes by varying the amount of hot pepper flakes used. Tabil may be stored nearly indefinitely in a well sealed jar.

Tongue in Wine Sauce
A dish from the Hungarian Jewish Kitchen

l pickled beef tongue, about 2 kilos
8 bay leaves
10 whole peppercorns
2 tsp. dill
1 cup port wine
1 Tbsp. butter (for kashrut use a parve substitute)
1 tsp. sweet paprika
1 Tbsp. cornflour
3 cups beef stock

Remove the fatty end of the tongue (reserve it for future use in a soup or stew). Place the tongue in a large kettle, add
the stock and then add enough water to cover. Add 5 of the bay leaves, the peppercorns and the dill. Bring to a boil, reduce the flame and cook until the tongue is soft (about 2 hours). Peel under cold running water and let cool.

In a saucepan boil the wine with the remaining bay leaves until the wine is reduced by half. Remove from the flame,
add the butter and the paprika, mixing well.

While the sauce is still hot sprinkle over the cornflour, mix well and continue to mix until the sauce thickens. Slice the tongue thinly and heat the slices in the sauce. Serve hot. (Serves 6 - 8)

Tagine with Chicken and Fruits
A Classic Jewish-Moroccan Dish

1 large or 2 small chickens, cut into convenient
serving pieces
2 onions, chopped finely
1/4 cup parsley, chopped finely
2 - 3 Tbsp. butter (for kashrut use parve substitute)
1/4 tsp. ground ginger
salt and black pepper to taste
1/2 kilo pears, apples, prunes or a mixture of these
(pears and apples should be peeled, cored and sliced)

Place the chicken, onions and parsley in a large pot, pour over water to cover, add the butter and ginger and season with salt and pepper. Bring to the boil and then simmer gently, covered, until the chicken is very tender (about 1 hour). Add the fruits and continue to simmer until they are just tender, taking care not to let the fruits disintegrate. Serve with rice or couscous.

Mixed Vegetables
From the Jewish Romanian Kitchen

Note: Because this dish, known as ghivetch, is always better when made in large quantities, this recipe will serve 12 - 15. Always better the day after cooking (and even better the day after that), ghivetch may be served hot, lightly chilled or at room temperature and may be accompanied by yoghurt or sour cream. Oh yes...in case you noticed, there is a clear relationship between this Romanian dish and French ratatouille.

4 onions, sliced
1 1/2 cups olive oil
1 small head cabbage, shredded
1 small cauliflower, broke into flowerettes
1/2 kilo lima beans, shelled
8 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped coarsely
6 small potatoes, peeled and cubed
6 small carrots, sliced
125 gr. okra, cut in thick slices
125 gr. string beans, trimmed and halved or quartered
1 green pepper, seeded and cut into strips
the white portions of 3 leeks, sliced
2 or 3 zucchini squash, cubed
2 parsley roots, diced
1 celery root, diced
1 cup sour grapes or 2 sour plums (may used tinned)
1/2 cup parsley, chopped finely
8 - 12 cloves garlic
salt and pepper to taste

In a 5 liter flameproof casserole heat 1/2 cup of the oil and in this fry the onions until golden brown. Add all of the vegetables, herbs and fruits and mix gently, sprinkling with salt and pepper.

In a saucepan bring the remaining oil to a boil and pour over the vegetables. Cover tightly and cook over a moderate flame until the liquids begin to boil. Transfer to a medium oven until all of the vegetables are cooked and most of the liquids have evaporated (1 - 1 1/2 hours), adding more liquid if the casserole dries out during the cooking. Stir gently once or twice during cooking. Season to taste with the salt and pepper and, if desired, serve with the yoghurt or sour cream.

Red Beans with Plum Sauce Georgia
A well known dish from the Republic of Georgia, CIS

1/2 kilo tinned or 4 cups cooked kidney beans
1 clove garlic
1/2 tsp. crushed, dried chili peppers
1 tsp. dried basil
1 tsp. minced coriander leaves
salt to taste
1/2 cup damson plum jam
about 2 Tbsp. wine vinegar

If using canned beans, strain the beans and rinse lightly under cold running water. Drain thoroughly and turn into a serving bowl. With a mortar and pestle or blender, crush the garlic together with the chili peppers, basil, coriander and a pinch or two of salt. Work to a smooth paste.

Rub the jam through a fine sieve and mix together with the herb paste, thinning with vinegar, a few drops at a time. Season the sauce to taste with salt and gently fold the sauce into the beans with a wooden spoon. Let stand at room temperature for 2 - 3 hours before serving. (Serves 6).

Sauerkraut Soup
Known as Shchi throughout Russia this dish had its roots in the Jewish kitchens of rural Ukraine.

1/2 kilo sauerkraut
1 1/2 Tbsp. butter or parve substitute
1 1/2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
2 large onions, chopped coarsely
1 stalk celery, diced
2 1/2 liters hot beef stock
1 kilo lean beef, cut into cubes
or 10 sliced frankfurters
1 bouquet garni made by tying 1 bay leaf, 8 peppercorns
and 1 sprig of thyme in a cheesecloth
salt and pepper to taste
8 small potatoes, boiled in their skins
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh dill or 1 Tbsp. dried dill
1 cup sour cream (optional)

Rinse the sauerkraut in cold water and drain thoroughly.

In a large saucepan heat the butter and oil together and in this gently saute the onion and celery until the onions begin to turn golden. Add the stock, meat and bouquet garni and simmer very gently, uncovered, for 2 hours. Discard the bouquet garni, correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste and serve with the whole, peeled potatoes, dill and, if desired, sour cream. (Serves 6 - 8).

A beloved dessert from Poland

1 cup uncooked rice
1/2 cup blanched almonds or walnuts
1/4 cup each cooked pitted prunes, raisins and dates
1/4 cup each sugar and honey
1 Tbsp. vegetable shortening

In a saucepan cook the rice in 2 cups of water for 30 minutes. Drain and add the sugar and shortening.

While the rice is cooking, oil a heatproof casserole with a 4 - 5 cup capacity. In a mixing bowl combine the fruits, nuts and honey. Arrange half of this mixture in the casserole so that it covers the bottom and comes up the sides. Spoon half the rice over the fruit mixture and over this spoon the remaining fruits and honey. Top with the remaining rice and cover with aluminum foil.

Place the casserole on a rack inside a large pot, pour in boiling water to come 3/4 up the sides of the pudding dish, cover the pot and steam for 45 minutes.

Remove the cover and let the steam evaporate before removing the inner bowl. Remove the foil, place a serving plate over the rice and invert in one rapid motion so that the pudding will sit on the serving plate. May serve hot, cool or well chilled. (Serves 4 - 6)

© Daniel Rogov