No group of Israelis is more fiercely proud of their history and cultural heritage than the Bedouins who continue to reside in the Negev Dessert and the northern regions of the country. About 1350 years ago, shortly after the death of Mohammed, warrior ancestors of these Bedouins set off from the Arabian Peninsula to spearhead the movement that eventually established an Islamic Empire so huge that it included, all of North Africa, parts of Asia, Spain and Sicily. Wherever they went, the Bedouins had a profound influence on the culture of the people they encountered, and in no area was that influence felt more than in the kitchen.

Even though the sophisticated cuisines of Spain, Italy, southern France and Greece owe much to their Bedouin visitors, the basic dining habits of the Bedouins have remained unchanged over time. Today, as then, the people eat simple foods that reflect their agricultural and pastoral roots. Based on simple but careful preparations, the everyday diet of those Bedouins who continue to maintain a primarily nomadic way of life relies heavily on bread and dates, mutton, goat and occasionally camel meat and the milk of these animals, along with game and the wild berries found in the dessert. Despite this seeming simplicity, Bedouin cooking is often delicate, aromatic and rich with natural flavors.

The rules of courtesy and hospitality that surround traditional Bedouin dining are also rich. To dine in a Bedouin home is to accept not only the hospitality but the protection of one's host. So formalized are the rules of hospitality that it is known that for three days after a meal, even if a guest has traveled many miles in that time, he remains under the protection of the family with which he dined.

Although Bedouin rules of dining etiquette vary considerably from those of most Western homes, they are no less refined and delicate. At traditional meals, nearly all food is eaten with the fingers, a custom far more sophisticated and difficult to master than most Westerners realize. With the exception of couscous and other grain dishes, one should use only three fingers in eating. It is, of course, de rigueur to eat with only the right hand.

While some dishes are eaten out of a common bowl, each guest is expected to eat most of his or her dinner from the dish placed directly in front of them and only from the side of the dish nearest the body. While it is considered polite to occasionally offer a choice tidbit from one's own plate to a neighbor, it is decidedly rude to gaze prolongedly at others who are dining at the table.

Even if full, one should occasionally nibble at the dish being served, for if one person stops eating everyone else may feel compelled to stop as well and the dish will be removed from the table. And, even though eating is done with the hands, one should not lick his or her fingers until the end of the meal, as this is taken as a sign that you have finished eating.

Sociability is important to the enjoyment of meals, and while the discussion of pleasant topics is always in order one should never discuss business or bring unpleasant subjects to the table. It is also highly appropriate to remark frequently on the perfection of the dishes being served.

Not too many years ago, I was privileged to be invited to a take part in a traditional chafla (celebratory feast) held in the tents of the family of Yosef Ben Ibrahim near Beit Eshel, not far from Beersheba. I arrived at one in the afternoon, there to drink many cups of coffee and to pass several hours in reminiscences of days gone by, and then to partake in a meal that, in addition to the dish described below included several whole sheep and goats that had been cooked especially for the occasion. As in many such meals, the very first offering was a bowl of fresh herbs - parsley, mint, chives, dill, coriander, tarragon and spring onions - with which to clean the palate and hone the appetite. The following recipes, for two of the eighteen dishes served during the meal, are designed to serve 4 - 6.

Lamb on Vine Leaves

8 grape leaves
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1/2 kilo lamb, cut in bite-sized pieces
2 medium onions, chopped coarsely
1/2 tsp. allspice
salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup pine nuts
juice of 1 lemon

If using fresh grape leaves, soak them in hot water for 5 - 6 minutes. If using canned leaves soak for 5 - 6 hours in cold water. In either case, after soaking rinse and gently squeeze dry between toweling.

In a heavy skillet heat the oil and in this saute the meat and onions together until the meat is browned on all sides. Season with the allspice and salt and pepper to taste.

Place 4 of the leaves in greased low casserole dish and on the leaves spread the meat mixture. Sprinkle over with the pine nuts, cover with the remaining leaves, sprinkle with the lemon juice and bake in a medium oven for 5 minutes. Place the casserole dish in a large oven pan with about 2 cm. of hot water and bake for an additional 30 minutes. Serve hot.

Mutton Ragout

1/4 kilo whole chickpeas
1 leg of mutton, about 2 kilos
1/4 kilo fatty pastrami, cut in thick squares
1/4 cup chicken fat
1 large onion, chopped
4 medium tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 tsp. each thyme and basil
2 bay leaves
salt and pepper to taste
1 cup sweet white wine
1 cup breadcrumbs

In a large amount of lightly salted water, soak the chickpeas overnight. Drain well and cook in lightly salted water until the chickpeas are nearly soft.

Cut the mutton off the bone and cut into thick squares. Cut the pastrami into thick squares as well.

In a large heavy saucepan melt the chicken fat and in this saute the onions until they are translucent. Add the mutton and pastrami slices and brown well on both sides. Add the tomatoes, garlic, thyme, basil, bay leaves and salt and pepper to taste. Pour over the wine, rapidly bring to the boil and immediately lower the flame, cover the skillet and simmer very gently until the meat is tender (about 2 hours).

When the mutton is nearly ready transfer the mixture to an ovenproof casserole, add the chickpeas, correct the seasoning and sprinkle over with the breadcrumbs on the top. Place in a slow oven until a slight crust has formed on the top (about 1 hour). Serve hot.

© Daniel Rogov