There was a time, not all that long ago, when posting a list of the best wines produced in Israel in any given year would have been an exercise in futility. Happily, those days are gone forever, and it gives me enormous pleasure to post this list of 24 wines, some from large wineries, others from boutiques or garagistes, each of which scored 90 or higher, putting them in the a category ranging from excellent to extraordinary.

As in all of my tastings, the wines were tasted "blind", that is to say, with no ability on my part to know whether they were from Israel, France, Italy, Australia or wherever, this eliminating even the possible subconscious temptation that might lead to any bias.

Castel Winery, "C' - Chardonnay du Castel, 1999: Full bodied and elegant, reflecting the primarily new oak casks in which it was aged, this mouthfilling wine has flavors of nuts, butter, minerals and fruits (apricots and white peaches) that linger comfortably on the palate. The wine is appropriate for drinking now but promises to be even more delicious and complex as it ages. Even better balanced than the 1998 wine which received a score of 95, give the wine another two or three years and look for flavors of figs and toast. Give it another six to seven years and you will be in absolute awe of its complexity. Score 96. (Most recently tasted 22 Sept 2001)

Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 1999: Even better than the wine from the 1998 harvest, this deep and profound blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (85%) and Merlot (15%) has intense berry, mint and cassis aromas and flavors and ample hints of the oak in which it aged for 14 months. Full bodied but very elegant and refined, with silky tannins and a succulent finish. Sip this side by side with the delicious super-Tuscan Masseto of Ornellaia and you will gasp in amazement that an Israeli wine can be this delicious. Drinkable now but the wine will only begin to reach its peak in another 2 - 3 years. Even then, count on the wine to develop nicely until about 2008. Score 94. (Tasted 24 Aug 2001)

Margalit, Cabernet Sauvignon, Special Reserve, 1999: Dense and full bodied this elegant wine (a blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Carignan) offers tempting spice and ripe fruit aromas and flavors of currants, plums, chocolate and coffee. Harmonious, firm and tannic, this is a wine to set aside for at least 2 - 3 years before drinking and then to follow as it develops over the next decade. Score 93. (Tasted 10 Mar 2001)

Margalit, Merlot, 1999: Full bodied, bold, ripe and delicious with layer after layer of plum, currant, black cherry flavors. Smooth tannins and rich flavors that fill the mouth and then linger nicely, this
delicious wine is drinking very nicely now but will age well for another 4 - 5 years. Score 92+. (Tasted 10 Mar 2001)

Orna Chillag: Merlot, Primo, Reserva 2000: A Merlot with a character that reflects the grape, the soil and the personal tastes of the winemaker! Smooth, ripe and complex the wine has plenty of currants, berries, plums and light spicy qualities. Well balanced, with plenty of soft tannins, with flavors that develop as the wine sits in the glass and then linger very nicely on the palate, this is a wine that can be drunk now but will be at its best only in another 2 - 3 years. Chillag's may be one of the smallest wineries in Israel but she is rapidly demonstrating that she is a winemaker to be taken very seriously indeed. Score 92. (Tasted 14 Sept 2001)

Gustavo & Jo, Premium, 2000: Full bodied and still very tannic but already revealing what will be a complex set of flavors and aromas that will include currants, wild berries, leather and spices, all of which come together very nicely. Deep and rich, with the promise of elegance as it continues to develop in the bottle, this delicious wine should be held for at least another 2 years before starting to drink it. Score 92. (Tasted 24 Nov 2001)

Margalit, Chardonnay, 2000: Complex and full bodied, with plenty of ripe pear, citrus, spice, hazelnut and honey flavors appearing at first and then making way for appealing hints of minerals and earth on the palate. Rich and elegant, with just the right touches of oak, a wine to drink now or in the next 2 - 3 years. Score 92. (Tasted 10 Mar 2001)

Margalit, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1999: Based on 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 4% of Petite Sirah, this well oaked, full bodied wine finds just the right balance between wood, ripe cherry and berry flavors. Still closed because of its youth but with the promise of developing into a wine that is ripe and complex and that in 2 - 3 more years show its full glory and complexity in cherry, spice and cedar wood flavors. Score 92. (Tasted 10 Mar 2001)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Katzrin, 1999: Intense and featuring complex pear, vanilla, apple and buttery notes, this full bodied wine was aged sur lie (that is to say, with its yeasts and the fine sediments that develop in the barrel) and now shows enviable depth, balance and richness. Just enough hints of spices and vanilla come together to make the wine stylish and appealing. Drink now or in the next 3 - 4 years. Score 91+. (Tasted 6 Mar 2001)

Amphorae, Chardonnay, 2000:Lively, deep and well rounded, with plenty of rich and concentrated grapefruit, pear and fig flavors. Smooth, ripe and complex, with nice feeling of toast oak and spices this is a delicious wine from start to finish. Drink now or in the next 3 - 4 years. Score 91. (Tasted twice, most recently 22 Aug 2001)

Flam, Merlot, Reserve, 1999: Merlot as Merlot should be, this medium- to full-bodied wine has silky tannins and remarkably harmonious flavors and aromas of cassis, violets, berries and toasty oak. Rich, with flavors that linger on and on this well made wine is approachable now but will cellar nicely for at least 4 - 5 years. Merlot lovers will find this one irresistible. Score 91. (tasted 24 Aug 2001)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Yarden, 1997: Deep and long, with stewed pear, yeasty and nutty flavors all overlayed by generous hints of oaky-mineral-earthiness, this full bodied wine is now showing its glory in quiet and dignified ways. Deep gold in color, this complex and deep wine is drinking beautifully now and although at its peak, promises to hold its charms for at least another year.
Score 91. (Re-tasted 20 Nov 2001)

Golan Heights Winery, Pinot Noir, Yarden, 1999: This medium bodied, deep ruby red wine has irresistible layers of flavors and an expressive personality of raspberries, cherries, currants and chocolate, all with light overlays of minerals and oak. A complex and delicious wine that opens beautifully in the glass and on the palate, this well balanced wine is drinking very well now but should cellar nicely for another 4 - 5 years. Score 91. (Tasted officially 20 Nov 2001)

Kfira, Merlot, 1999: Dark, firm, rich and tannic, this chewy and hearty Merlot has an appealing mineral and herbal accents to its plum, currant and spicy oak flavors and aromas. Remarkably harmonious and well balanced, and with flavors that linger nicely on the palate, the wine is delicious now but will develop nicely in the bottle for 3 - 4 years longer. Score 91. (Tasted 3 June 2001)

Saslove Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2000 (Advance Tasting): Still young and thus still somewhat closed and tannic, this wine will not be released until about September of 2001. This full bodied wine promises to open as it continue to age and then to reveal firm but silky smooth tannins, deep flavors and aromas of blackcurrants, black cherries, raspberries. Give it another two - three years and you will also find more and more of the sweet oak finish, hints of cedar wood, tobacco and chocolate.
Score 91. (Tasted 20 Jul 2001)

Margalit, Carignan, 1999: A delightful surprise because Carignan, (which is used primarily in southern France when blended with Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault and other grapes) rarely produces a fine wine on its own. This full bodied wine (which also contains 5% of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes to round it off) is still young but given fifteen minutes to open in the glass shows that it is already bursting with raspberry and chocolate flavors and an almost floral bouquet. Let the wine develop for another year in the bottle and it will show overlays of appealing spice, herbal and leather notes. Score 90+. (Tasted 10 Mar 2001)

Binyamina, Merlot, Special Reserve, 1998: The best wine ever from Binyamina! Rich and flavorful, with layers of ripe, spicy lack cherry, currant, plum and mineral flavors, this medium to full bodied Merlot has plenty of smooth tannins and flavors that linger nicely. A young and vibrant wine that is lovely now but will store nicely for another 4 - 5 years. Score 90. (Tasted 18 May 2001)

Flam, Classico, 2000: Call this Flam's second wine if you like, but there is nothing whatever second class about it. Surprisingly full bodied and tannic but simultaneously smooth, elegant and well balanced, this blend of Cabernet and Merlot has vanilla, berry and coffee aromas and flavors. A long, flavorful finish inherent good balance make the wine drinkable now or in the next two - three years.
As I advised last year, consider buying a case and opening a bottle every few months to follow its development. Score 90. (Tasted 24 Aug 2001)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1998: As it was when I tasted it from the barrel (14 Feb 2000), this dark colored wine has an intensity and ripeness that belies what was not the very best of vintage years. Full bodied and with plenty of red currant, cherry, vanilla and mineral and already on the way to showing appealing toasted-oak and cedar in its aromas and flavors, the wine is already approachable but will be at its best only in another 2 - 3 years and will then cellar nicely until about 2008. Score 90. (Re-tasted 6 July 2001).

Mayshar, Cabernet Sauvignon 730, 1999: Because only 730 bottles of this wine were made, it is reasonable to think of it as the boutique's winery's "special reserve" version and that is fair enough because the wine is special indeed. Intense and ripe, with currant, cherry, spice and cedary oak flavors and aromas, with enough tannins and good balance, this is a wine that will develop nicely in the bottle for 5 - 8 years. Approachable now but best to let the tannins smooth out for another year or so before really enjoying the wine. A boutique winery definitely on the way up. NIS 98. (Tasted 6 July 2001)

Saslove Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Aviv, 2000: Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, this medium bodied wine is full of youth and exuberance. Packed with currants, cherry and plum flavors and just the right hints of vanilla and spices. With plenty of smooth tannins the wine can be drunk now but will develop nicely for at least 2 - 3 years. Score 90. (Tasted 20 Jul 2001)

Tishbi, Cabernet Sauvignon, Jonathan Tishbi Special Reserve 1998: When I tasted this wine from the barrels almost 16 months ago, I wrote that it promised to be well-proportioned and brimming with cassis, plums, berries and pleasing light spicy overtones. The wine has just been released and I am pleased to report that it meats its earlier promise. Full bodied, well balanced and with toasty oak overlaying its fruit flavors, the wine is just beginning to show hints of anise and chocolate in its flavors. Score 90. (Tasted 2 and 19 May 2001)

Tishbi, Merlot, Jonathan Tishbi Special Reserve, 1998: Another rousing success for this family owned winery. Smooth and generous, well balanced and harmonious, with lots of berry, currant and cherry flavors, this well made wine is approachable now but will age nicely for another 5 - 6 years, showing increasing intensity and elegance as it ages. Score 90. (Tasted 2 and 19 May 2001)

Tzora, Cabernet Sauvignon, Misty Hills, 1999: Firm and chewy, with plenty of still firm tannins but already promising delicious black cherry, currant and wild berry flavors, all overlayed comfortably by spices, vanilla and cedar wood flavor. Probably the best wine to date from Tzora, the wine should be held for a year or two longer and will then drink nicely until 2005 - 2007. Score 90. (Tasted 24 Nov 2001)

© Daniel Rogov