One year ago, I posted my first ever list of what I considered the best wines released in Israel, that year of course being 2001. There were twenty-four wines on the list, each of which earned scores of 90 or more points, putting them in a category ranging from excellent to extraordinary. This year my chore was even more pleasant and the following list of wines tasted and released in 2002 includes thirty-eight wines each in that elevated category.

If there is a primary “message” to the list it is that only one large winery (the Golan Heights Winery) is represented on the list, the other wines coming from wines that range in size from medium to miniscule. If there is a secondary message, it is that Israeli wines continue to improve in quality over the years.
As in all of my tastings, the wines were tasted "blind", that is to say, with no ability on my part to know whether they were from Israel, France, Italy, Australia or wherever, this eliminating even the possible subconscious temptation that might lead to any bias. The symbol (K) following individual reviews indicates that the wine in question is kosher.
Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, 2000 (Advance Tasting): Well focused, well balanced and with enviable structure, this remarkably deep purple wine shows medium to full body and enormous promise for the future. A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot, the wine spent 15 months in oak casks. A wine so deep you feel you can get lost in it, with traditional Cabernet flavors and aromas of red currants, ripe red fruit and delicious spices, this is a wine that will be enjoyable in its youth but promises to cellar comfortably until 2008 – 2010. Score 94.

Bustan, Merlot, 1999: Deep, dark rich and full bodied, with spicy currant, mocha, nut, herbal and coffee flavors and aromas this well balanced wine has firm but well integrated tannins and a long complex aftertaste. Perhaps the best Merlot out of Bustan to date. Drink now – 2005 or longer. Score 93.

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 1999: When I first tasted this wine from the barrels in August 2000, I wrote that it seemed to be destined to be the winery’s best wine to date. A more recent tasting indicates that I was not wrong. Full bodied, concentrated and already revealing its elegance, this still young wine opens beautifully on the palate revealing black currants, berry, cassis flavors and aromas, all complemented beautifully by layers of spices and eucalyptus. Well balanced, with remarkably smooth tannins the wine is already approachable but will cellar comfortably until 2006 – 2008. Score 93.

Flam, Merlot Reserve, 2000 (Advance Tasting): Made entirely from Merlot grapes but so far from an internationalized Merlot this is a wine in which to celebrate. After 15 months in small oak casks the wine is already showing deep, concentrated and luscious black fruits all overlayed with generous mocha, chocolate and vanilla flavors and aromas as well as a pleasing sensation of herbaceousness that comes in on the long finish. With smooth tannins and excellent balance, this mouthfilling, ripe and elegant wine will drink well from its release and then cellar well until 2005 – 2007. Anticipated release price about NIS 130. Score 93.

Margalit, Cabernet Sauvignon, Special Reserve, 2000: Delicious and complex, so deep in color that it is almost black and with an enormous variety of flavors. Based on 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petite Syrah and 5% Merlot, this remarkably full bodied wine boasts earthy currant, sage, black cherry and cedary oak flavors. With depth and concentration, look for this wine to pick up coffee and tobacco notes as it develops. Hold until 2003 – 2004 and then drink comfortably until 2010. NIS 165. Score 93.

Alexander, Cabernet Sauvignon, “Alexander the Great”, 2001: I am not in favor of flamboyant names, but I have to confess that this one made me smile. Fair enough, I suppose, for this is potentially the best wine produced by this small but ever improving winery. Almost massive in structure and so full bodied that you might feel it more appropriate to eat this one with a spoon, but with a surprising sense of elegance that runs through, the wine promises to settle down nicely with time to reveal firm tannins well balanced by black fruits, herbs and a hint of eucalyptus as well as a good but not exaggerated sense of the wood. Tentative Score 92.

Amphorae, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2000 (Advance Tasting): Full bodied, this wine is so intense and powerful that you might be tempted to think of it as “potent”. Still in its infancy and thus with still very firm tannins but already showing the kind of structure and balance that bode well for development in the bottle, this dark and deep wine promises to open in the future to reveal sweet tasting currant, black berry and plums, all with generous overlays of pepper and chocolate. As is the case with the wines of Bordeaux, this is the kind of wine I enjoy drinking even when it is too young in order to afford myself the pleasure of opening bottles periodically over time, following the wine through its development until one can finally revel in its full beauty. Ask me about food match and I can think of a dozen good ones but the one that most beckons on a personal basis will most assuredly be boeuf bourguignonne! . Score 92.

Amphorae, Merlot, 2000 (Advance Tasting): Deep royal purple in color, this wine is the result of a blend of 95% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Petite Sirah. As far as you can get from the internationalized Merlots that I so detest, this is a winemaker’s wine indeed, well knit but not tight, firm but not muscular and very well balanced indeed. Good dark fruits here, well set off by light and appealing herbal and vanilla aromas and flavors. A wine that lingers nicely on the palate. The wine will be ready to drink on release but should cellar comfortably until 2005 – 2006. Score 92.

Bustan, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1999: As we have come to anticipate from Bustan, this is an intense wine with rich and vibrant currant, black cherry and mocha flavors and aromas, all of which unfold on the palate to reveal complexity and depth. Still a bit rough because of the firm tannins but give this one another year or two in the bottle and you will find a long, deep and elegant wine. Let it age for four or five years and you will find delicious chocolate, tobacco and anise notes making themselves felt. The wine should cellar nicely until 2006 – 2008. Score 92.

Castel, C, Blanc de Castel, 2000: Noticeably lighter in style than the C Chardonnays of 1999 and 1998 wines, but still a delight. Smooth and creamy, with multiple layers of pear, fig, citrus, butterscotch aromas and flavors this elegant and complex wine has welcome smoky, toasty aftertastes that linger nicely. Drink now or until 2004 – 2005. Score 92.

Golan Heights, HeightsWine, 2000: An absolute delight! Taste this dessert wine well chilled and you will swear that the honeyed flavors are of pears and quince. Let it warm just a bit in the glass and you will feel ripe apricots and white peaches. Let it linger on the palate and all of this changes to kiwi, pineapple and tropical fruits. Flowery, honeyed and delicious, made entirely from Gewurztraminer grapes, this deliciously sweet wine is well balanced by plenty of natural acidity. Drink now or cellar until 2006 – 2008. Score 92. (K)

Margalit, Merlot, 2000: Rich, ripe and concentrated, with layer after layer of currants, plums and black cherries, all with generous hints of tobacco, smoky oak and vanilla. Remarkably tannic for a Merlot (the wine also contains 10% of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, this full bodied wine will be start showing its best only in 2004 – 2005. A winemaker’s wine, delicious in every way. Score 92.

Margalit, Chardonnay, 2001: Not Australian, not Burgundian, not Californian but distinctly Margalit and perhaps therefore distinctly Israeli in style, this complex white was fermented in new oak barrels on its own yeasts, and then allowed to go through malolactic fermentation. With ripe tropical fruits, citrus, toasty oak flavors and aromas, this full bodied wine has flavors that linger on and on. Although enjoyable now, the wine will be even better from 2003 – 2006. Score 92.

Recanati, Special Reserve, 2000 (Advance tasting): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in equal parts, with 20 months in oak, this full bodied and muscular wine shows gripping but already well integrating tannins, and mouthfilling flavors of black currants, black cherries and smoky vanilla all on a tempting background of herbaceousness and earthiness. The wine is approachable now, especially with food, but that will waste the charms that are yet to develop. Best drinking from 2004 – 2009.
Score 92. (K)

Alexander, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander the Great, 1999: Deep purple, this medium to full bodied blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot spent 24 months in American and French oak barrels. That may have been a bit too long because there is so much vanilla and smoky oak here that it is difficult to guess that Cabernet is the primary grape here. Having so stated, let me go on to say that this is a delicious wine, showing delicious and complex layers of plums, currants and orange peel along with vanilla and chocolate and even the hint of mint that come in on the long, sweet finish. Not one for long-term cellaring but excellent now – 2005. Score 91.

Dalton, Sauvignon Blanc, Reserve, 2001: Pale gold in color, this unoaked Sauvignon Blanc is smooth and elegant, with fresh herbaciousness overlaying tempting citrus and peach notes. Look for light hints of grass as the wine lingers on the palate. Very nice indeed, perhaps the very best Sauvignon Blanc in Israel. Score 91. (K)

Flam, Classico, 2001: Call this the “second wine” of this small winery if you like, but this is a wine that has no need to stand in anyone’s shadow. The blend, of 50% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot spent 7 months in small oak casks. Medium bodied, with generous smooth tannins and tempting flavors of currants, plums, wild berries and spices, this is a well balanced and seductive wine and as I have in the past, I cannot help but suggest purchasing a case and following its development in the bottle. Drink now – 2005. Score 91.

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 1999: Deep and dark, this full bodied royal purple towards garnet wine is a blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Merlot, all of which spent 18 months in small French oak casks. The result is splendid, and ample black cherry, berry and flavors sit comfortably on a background of vanilla and cedar wood flavors and aromas. Plenty of tannins here, but those smooth and already well integrated and a long finish on which you will find hints of mocha. Perhaps not a wine for long term cellaring but one that is already delicious and will drink nicely until 2006 – 2007. Score 91. (K)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Gamla, 2000: Perhaps the very best Chardonnay ever in the Gamla series! Medium to full bodied, light golden in color and with an array of flavors and aromas that unfold nicely in the glass and on the palate. Look for citrus, pears and green apple fruits as well as spicy oak, all on a well balanced frame and with flavors that linger very nicely indeed. On the aftertaste look for intense, spicy, fig notes. Taste this one blind and you will be confused, for you will take an oath that the wine came from either the Maconnais or the Cote Chalonnaise! Score 91. (K)

Margalit, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2000: Beautifully made, this full bodied and still tannic wine is still in its infancy but as it opens look for an abundance of raspberry, black cherry, sage, and spicy aromas and flavors, all with delicious leathery, cedar wood overtones. A blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Merlot, this deep, full bodied wine may be a bit difficult to drink now but give it a year or two more and it will start showing beautifully. Best from 2004 – 2008. Score 91.

Recanati, Chardonnay, Reserve 2001: Only about 6,700 bottles of this wine were made. Domage (a shame) for this one is so much better than the first release that it is destined to sell out rather quickly. Medium to full bodied, with distinct green apple, pineapple and floral-spicy flavors and aromas and just enough impact of the 9 months that it spent in oak, the wine will remind some of California. Whatever the association, the flavors linger nicely (look for kiwi flavors that develop on the palate after the wine has been swallowed). Drink young or cellar without fear until 2005. Tentative Score 91. (K)

Recanati, Merlot, Reserve, 2000: Almost brilliant royal purple, this medium to full bodied red offers up flavors and a bouquet that mark it as quite different than the too-many internationalized Merlots that have been hitting the market these days. Look for black fruits, eucalyptus and sage flavors and aromas, all on a well structured and well balanced frame. Fourteen months in oak are reflected well but without exaggeration, and still firm tannins here, but give this one time to develop and you will find a very generous, truly Mediterranean Merlot to enjoy. The wine will be approachable on release but will develop nicely and be at its peek between 2004 – 2008. Tentative score NIS 91. (K)

Sea Horse Winery, Elul, 2000: When I first tasted this wine about six months ago, I wrote that it needed retasting because it was still far too closed to fully evaluate. A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Syrah, this medium to full bodied and still tannic wine has opened beautifully in the intervening months and now shows excellent balance between tannins, fruits and wood. Plenty of currants, cherry and plum flavors, all now showing beautifully and with an enviably long just spicy enough finish, the wine will be at its best only starting in 2003 but should then cellar nicely until 2006 or longer. Well worth trying. Score 91.

Tzora, Cabernet Sauvignon, Neve Ilan, Special Selection, 2000:Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes and aged in small oak barrels for 20 months, this young wine is already showing its rich, well balanced nature, already revealing complex currant, herb, mineral, sage , pepper and cedar flavors and aromas. Plenty of firm tannins here and a long finish on which you will find leather and chocolate. Hold this one for several years at least. Best from 2005 – 2008 or longer. Score 91.

Tzora, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ilan, Misty Hills, 2000: Perhaps the best wine ever from Tzora! Still tightly closed and needing a good deal of time in the glass to reveal its charms but once it starts to open it seems to go on and on with its surprises. Full bodied, with cedary oak now dominating but under that rich levels of currants black cherries, berries and plums with a long finish on which the oak and tannins fill the mouth very nicely indeed. One to set aside for further development. Score 91.

Tzora, Cabernet Sauvignon, Neve Ilan, Special Selection, 2000: Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes and aged in small oak barrels for 20 months, this young wine is already showing its rich, well balanced nature, already revealing complex currant, herb, mineral, sage , pepper and cedar flavors and aromas. Plenty of firm tannins here and a long finish on which you will find leather and chocolate. Best from 2005 – 2008 or longer. Score 91.

Zauberman, Merlot, 2000: What a happy surprise, for this very well made medium to full bodied Merlot is far firmer in texture than one usually hopes for of local wines made from this grape. Loaded with blackberry, cherry, anise and vanilla flavors, all of which linger nicely on the palate this supple, spicy and generous medium to full bodied wine is drinkable now but will be at its best only between 2003 – 2005. A good example of the pleasures that should be given us by a boutique-made wine. Score 91.

Amphorae, Rhyton, 2000: The winery’s second wine, one meant to be accessible early and to give hints of what the first wines will be. In that it succeeds, for this medium to full bodied, oak aged blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot shows excellent balance between fruits and wood, between smooth tannins and lively acidity. The wine will be drinkable upon release and will then cellar nicely for several years. A wine born to be served with food (best matches will be small cuts of beef, especially those cooked on the grill). Score 90.

Alexander, Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 (Advance Tasting): Still very young and thus somewhat closed but this promises to be a rich, polished and deep Cabernet, with ample currant wild berry and spicy wood flavors and aromas. The wine should be drinkable from 2003 – 2008. Score 90.

Orna Chillag, Cabernet, Primo Riserva, 2000: Young and still tightly closed, this almost impenetrably deep purple blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Merlot has a marked bitter taste when first tasted. Let it open in the glass for about half an hour and that yields to well focused earthy currant, black cherry and herbal flavors. Give the wine another two-three years to develop in the bottle and the now marked tannins will become integrated and although the wine will stay firm and compact it will then reveal generous fruit and spice flavors as well as generous hints of the oak in which it developed for 13 months. Worth cellaring and drink starting in 2004. Score 90.

Orna Chillag, Merlot, Primo, 2000: A blend of 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon that aged for 13 months in French oak barrels, this lithe and supple wine has plenty of blackberry, raspberry andanise flavors that linger gently on the palate. Flavorful, well balanced, delicious and with good balance between tannins and fruit, the wine can be enjoyed now but should cellar nicely for 3 – 4 years longer. Score 90.

Dalton, Merlot, Reserve, 2000: Intense and lively, with generous plum, wild berry and light hints of oak and vanilla, this rich and complex wine borders comfortably on elegance. The wine aged in small oak casks for a year, and has nice lingering aftertastes. The wine will is drinking well now but should cellar comfortably until at least 2004. Score 90. (K)

Galil Mountain, Y’ron, 2000: This recently bottled blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, offers up a deep red color, an abundance of plums, eucalyptus (or mint?) and ample earthy flavors and aromas. Full bodied, with smooth tannins already integrating very nicely. Winemaker Gabi Sadan likes to use the term “funky” to describe this wine. I agree, and believe me, I am using the term in the most positive of senses!!! If this is what the winery is on the way to doing, we can look forward to some very nice results indeed. Score 90. (K)

Saslove Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserved, 1999: Dark, deep and elegant, this very well crafted full bodied wine (perhaps Saslove’s fullest to date) has sweet plum, black cherry and red currant flavors and aromas, all opening slowly on the palate together with herbal, vanilla and light hints of mint. Well balanced and with tannins that are now integrating nicely, the wine will drink best from 2004 and will then cellar comfortably for 4 – 5 years longer. Score 92.

Saslove Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserved 2000 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted before the final blend has been made, but no problem in recommending this one, for my sampling was one that predicts a medium to full bodied and luxurious wine, one that boasts ample red currant, wild berry, herbal and spicy flavors. With tannins that promise to integrate and become smooth as the wine ages, and with a tantalizing hint of persimmon fruit that lingers on the long aftertaste. The wine is now being offered as pre-bottling futures. Tentative Score 92.

Tishbi, Cabernet Sauvignon, Kerem Ben Zimra, Special Reserve, 1999: Ripe and harmonious, with fresh cherry, spice and plum flavors and supple tannins, all overlaid with appealing hints of earthiness and herbs, this well balanced wine is approachable now but will be at its best only starting in 2003. The wine should cellar well until 2006. Score 90. (K)

Tishbi, Cabernet Sauvignon, Kerem Sde Boker, Special Reserve, 1999: Perhaps reflecting that this wine was made from a vineyard located in the heart of the Negev Dessert, it is not so much earthy and herbal as it is marked distinctly by green olive and spice flavors. Full bodied and still tight and tannic because of its youth but already showing signs of opening to reveal ripe and well focused black cherry and currant flavors, this generous wine, with its long aftertaste, promises to drink very well from 2003 – 2006 or longer. Score 90. (K)

Tishbi, Cabernet Sauvignon, Kerem Cfar Yuval, Special Reserve, 1999: With earthy currant and cherry flavors that are hidden somewhat by the still firm tannins, but rich and concentrated, this wine needs time to develop in the bottle. As the wine opens it promises to be smooth and supple. Drink starting next year and then until 2005 – 2006. Score90. (K)

© Daniel Rogov