Among the things that surprise many visitors to Israel is that it is almost impossible to find a good corned beef or pastrami sandwich here. Even more surprising to many, especially considering the large number of fine and fun restaurants in the country, is that kosher dining out is often far from a treat. In fact, it is probably easier to find good kosher restaurants New York, London, Paris, Toronto and Buenos Aires than in Israel.

There is no inherent contradiction between kosher dining and good food. One part of the problem comes about largely because too many chefs in local kosher restaurants rely far too heavily on the use of kosher substitutes such as non-dairy creamers and vegetable margarine and not enough on their imagination and creative skills. Another comes about because even today many of the truly observant are perceived as non-demanding and many restaurants have felt that they could "get away with" just about anything.

Those seeking a good kosher meal need not despair however, for at least a few chefs and restaurants have devoted themselves to cuisine that is both kosher and excellent. Although none of the kosher restaurants in the country earn four or five stars, several earn three (indicating restaurants that are very good and sometimes attain excellence) and several others earn two (restaurants that are consistently good and make for reliable and pleasant dining experiences.

Following is a list of what I now consider the ten best kosher restaurants in the country. For full details of the restaurants, see the city pages on which these restaurants are described more fully.

Olive Leaf Tel Aviv Sheraton Hotel. (03) 521-9300. Sun - Thurs 12:00 - 14:30 and 19:00 - 23:00; Fri lunch. French-Mediterranean dishes in a very attractive setting. Sweetbreads and foie gras on onion and raisin compote; red tuna tartar; fish veloute; sea bass with couscous, Cornish hen with mustard and herbs. Definitely on the way up! Moderate - expensive. Kosher. ***

Mishkenot Sha'ananim Yemen Moshe. (02) 625-4424. Daily 12:00 - 15:00 and 18:00 - 24:00. Old world formality with a magnificent view of the Old City. Best bets are traditional offerings such as goose liver pate, duck in orange sauce, tournedos Rossini. (Ask to see the wine cellar, probably the most extensive in the country). Expensive. Kosher but Without Certificate. ***

** Primavera
** Bruno.
** Darna.
** Lilith.
** La Regence
** The King Solomon
** The Sushi Bar
** Kohinor

If what beckons is those dishes the world thinks of as "Jewish food", try Shmulik Cohen:

© Daniel Rogov