Daniel
Rogov's
Dining
in the Bistro Style
| French men and women enjoy nothing more than
celebrating a good mood or improving a bad one by driving to a city or village
100 kilometers from home, there not to dine in prestigious restaurants but to
seek out those small, generally not well known bistros where they can feast on
the kinds of heavy, cholesterol laden dishes they knew at home when they were
children. Those not planning on being in France in the near future will find no
problem in finding a choice of fine bistros locally.
Bistro Dalia Renaud, Rehov Agrippas 10, Jerusalem: Featuring the genuine
cuisine of Alsace, this is one of the best places for informal dining in the country.
For an ideal Sylvester feast, start off with either a leek, onion or mushroom
quiche, continue with either the excellent choucroute garni or any Itamar Sderot Rothschild 12, Tel Aviv. A distinctly French bistro-bar that is clearly one of the most casual but pleasant dining experiences in the city. From time to time, I fall in love again with this place, and the latest reason for new-found passion is that chef Ita has added rabbit in red wine to her menu. Served in the style that the French know as civet or en gibelotte, the dish is bursting with flavor and the deep sauce served is good enough to mop up with pieces of bread. As old standards, I continue to rely on the fish and seafood soup which has just the right hints of saffron and is served with toast and excellent garlic-rich rouille; and the goose confit which, to borrow a phrase from Zorba, splendiferous. Those who are not afraid of cholesterol will find the fatty pork audouillette sausages to be a gift from gods and, served with potato puree that is blended together with sharp cheese, the dish is enormously pleasaint. and the chicken gizzards and the cold pate de foie gras are unbeatable. Oh yes, lest we forget, the chicken gizzards,the cold and hot foie gras, the coq au vin, the country-style duck in bitter-orange sauce, and the rillettes are also excellent. Service is a casual but pleasant. The wine list, alas, is a bit weak, but not hesitate to phone and ask permission to bring your own wine. Open Monday - Saturday 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sunday. Evening reservations suggested. Tel. (03) 517-7403. One of the ten best casual restaurants in Israel. Apicius, Sderot Rothschild 60, Tel Aviv: In this prototypic French bistro,
chef Youval Amirav is Coffee Bar, Rehov Yad Charutzim 13, Tel Aviv: The bistro-brasserie par
excellence of Tel Aviv. Informal and bustling, the places is as much fun to visit
for social reasons as to satisfy the appetite. Hippopotame, Rehov Yirmiahu 12, Tel Aviv: With its wood floors, well-worn
bar and completely |
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