Daniel Rogov's
Dining in the Bistro Style

French men and women enjoy nothing more than celebrating a good mood or improving a bad one by driving to a city or village 100 kilometers from home, there not to dine in prestigious restaurants but to seek out those small, generally not well known bistros where they can feast on the kinds of heavy, cholesterol laden dishes they knew at home when they were children. Those not planning on being in France in the near future will find no problem in finding a choice of fine bistros locally.

Bistro Dalia Renaud, Rehov Agrippas 10, Jerusalem: Featuring the genuine cuisine of Alsace, this is one of the best places for informal dining in the country. For an ideal Sylvester feast, start off with either a leek, onion or mushroom quiche, continue with either the excellent choucroute garni or any
of the dishes featuring sausages, and then, keeping in mind that Renaud is one of the best pastry
chefs in the country, be sure to try her apple cake (enriched marvellously with Calvados) or any of her fruit tartes. If she has it them in stock, be sure to try the wines of F.E. Trimbach (my own favorites are the Gewurztraminer or the Tokay-Pinot Gris). Prices are moderate - to high but value for money is unbeatable. Open Sunday - Thursday from 11:00 - 23:00, on Fridays until 16:00, and on Saturdays from 20:00 - 24:00. Telephone: 02: 6257647.

Itamar Sderot Rothschild 12, Tel Aviv. A distinctly French bistro-bar that is clearly one of the most casual but pleasant dining experiences in the city. From time to time, I fall in love again with this place, and the latest reason for new-found passion is that chef Ita has added rabbit in red wine to her menu. Served in the style that the French know as civet or en gibelotte, the dish is bursting with flavor and the deep sauce served is good enough to mop up with pieces of bread. As old standards, I continue to rely on the fish and seafood soup which has just the right hints of saffron and is served with toast and excellent garlic-rich rouille; and the goose confit which, to borrow a phrase from Zorba, splendiferous. Those who are not afraid of cholesterol will find the fatty pork audouillette sausages to be a gift from gods and, served with potato puree that is blended together with sharp cheese, the dish is enormously pleasaint. and the chicken gizzards and the cold pate de foie gras are unbeatable. Oh yes, lest we forget, the chicken gizzards,the cold and hot foie gras, the coq au vin, the country-style duck in bitter-orange sauce, and the rillettes are also excellent. Service is a casual but pleasant. The wine list, alas, is a bit weak, but not hesitate to phone and ask permission to bring your own wine. Open Monday - Saturday 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sunday. Evening reservations suggested. Tel. (03) 517-7403. One of the ten best casual restaurants in Israel.

Apicius, Sderot Rothschild 60, Tel Aviv: In this prototypic French bistro, chef Youval Amirav is
doing a splended job preparing the kinds of not-at-all-pretentious but excellent traditional dishes
that gave French cuisine its good name. The menu changes here frequently and I can comfortably
recommend any dish that is offered. Among my own first course favorites have been shrimps in crab and butter sauce and the goose liver with apples and a Calvados based sauce. As main courses you
will not go at all wrong with the entrecote steak that comes in a rich, wine scented sauce, and the drumfish with chili butter sauce. If it is offered be sure to try the excellent rissoto as a side dish.
Prices are moderate. Open daily 12:00 - 23:30 or later. Tel: 03 5605902.

Coffee Bar, Rehov Yad Charutzim 13, Tel Aviv: The bistro-brasserie par excellence of Tel Aviv. Informal and bustling, the places is as much fun to visit for social reasons as to satisfy the appetite.
Among the best bets here are the mixed antipasti platter, the grilled merguez sausages, the confit
avaz,, the mussels in white wine and butter, the shoulder of mutton, the fillet steak served with a thick baked marrow bone, and the excellent entrecote steaks. If hamburgers are your passion, be sure to try the one offered here. Try as well the good Spanish red wines offered. Best to visit in the evenings and late at night. Reasonable prices. Open daily from 07:00 - 24:00 or later. Telephone 03: 6889696.

Hippopotame, Rehov Yirmiahu 12, Tel Aviv: With its wood floors, well-worn bar and completely
relaxed ambiance, Shabbi Bahar's long established bistro is a Tel Aviv institution. As first courses, try the shrimps and calamari in creamy wine sauce or the sauteed mushrooms in a casserole dish and then for a main courses consider the sirloin steak (especially with the delicious mustard and white wine sauce), any of the goose liver dishes, and the really good spare ribs. Moderate prices. Open daily 12:00 - 24:30. Telephone 03: 5466348.

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