Gastronomes have difficulty understanding why so many people are enamored of the Yiddish kitchen. Introduced to a knish, French master chef Paul Bocuse studied it carefully, weighed it in his hand and put it to his nose. He then took a small bite and commented: "It's marvelous. Tell me, is it to be eaten or thrown at an enemy?"

The foods most people think of as being "Jewish" evolved in the shtetls, the tiny villages of Europe and is a peasant-style cuisine that lacks fineries and frills and tends to be heavy, fatty and starchy. None of which stops the Yiddish kitchen from being the heartland of nostalgia, sometimes melancholy, that brings to mind earlier times and long-gone people.

There is no mandate, however, that dictates that Yiddish food must be overly heavy. If there is an area in which such cuisine stands out for its lightness and sophistication it is in the production (and consumption) of the renowned blintz.

For the uninitiated, it is necessary to offer up an at least somewhat precise definition of this dish. It simply does not suffice to state the obvious - that a blintz is a blintz is a blintz. One may, however, come to an adequate understanding by describing the blintz by what it is not.

A blintz is definitely not a crepe Despite their multiple charms, no French crepe is worthy of the name of blintz. They are simply too foppish, too fragile and a bit too snobbish to do justice to the true blintz. Nor is the blintz an American flapjack or griddlecake. This is not do demean flapjacks, but one would no sooner make a blintz that thick than they would destroy its flavor by anointing it with an inordinate amount of maple syrup. Nor is the blintz merely a form of a pancake. Pancakes, at least in the Yiddish kitchen, consist of fried potato mixtures and, as delicious as they may be, they are most assuredly not blintzes.

Blintzes are unique in other ways as well. They are, for example, infinitely versatile and may prove eminently suitable for breakfasts, lunches or late snacks. They also make superb desserts.

With regard to the ultimate value of blintzes, one should note that arch anti-semites Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain employed a special chef for the preparation of their blintzes. So impressed were they with the artistry of this chef that he was one of the few Jews who was neither exiled, forcefully converted or burned at the stake of the Inquisition. Not a bad deal for a blintz-chef.

Each of the following recipes will comfortably serve 6.

Basic Blintz Recipe

l cup flour
2 eggs, beaten lightly
3/4 tsp. each baking powder and salt
1/4 tsp. sugar butter for frying
filling of choice (see following recipes)

Sift together the flour, salt and sugar. Add the baking powder and then add enough cold water (about 1 1/2 cups) to blend the mixture into a smooth batter. Blend thoroughly until smooth, adding enough water so that the batter is somewhat runny.

Heat a crepe pan or medium sized skillet over a high flame and brush with a small amount of butter. Pour in enough of the batter to barely coat the bottom of the pan and immediately tilt and shake the pan so that the batter covers the entire bottom. Cook until the batter stops bubbling and the edges begin to separate from the pan. With a spatula, flip the crepe over and cook until the second side is done. Slide individual blintzes onto a clean towel. Do not re-grease the pan unless necessary and repeat the process until all the blintzes are made.

In the center of each blintz place 1 - 1 1/2 Tbsp. of the selected filling and roll up the blintzes, folding the sides over to seal.

In a large skillet melt 3 Tbsp. of the butter and in this fry several blintzes at a time until golden brown on both sides. Serve hot, garnished with sour cream, confectioners' sugar or a mixture of confectioners' sugar and cinnamon.

The Fillings: To prepare any of the following fillings, simply mix all of the ingredients together thoroughly and then use to fill the blintzes.

Cheese and Spinach Filling

1/2 cup each cottage cheese and softened cream cheese
3/4 cup sauteed or boiled spinach , chopped finely
1 egg, beaten
2 tsp. sugar
1/4 tsp. each salt and nutmeg

Cheese and Leek Filling - 2

1 1/2 cups cottage cheese
1 cup steamed leeks, white parts only, chopped
2 egg yolks, beaten
1 tsp. butter, softened
1 tsp. lemon rind, grated

Cheese Filling

3/4 lb (350 gr) Emmenthal, Gruyere or other similar cheese, grated
1/3 cup cottage cheese
2 Tbsp. sugar
1 egg, beaten lightly

Apple Filling

3 large cooking apples, peeled, cored and grated finely
1/2 cup seedless raisins or ground almonds
1 egg, well beaten
1 1/2 Tbsp. dried bread crumbs
1 Tbsp. sugar
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 tsp. each ground cloves and nutmeg

Chocolate Dessert Blintzes

4 oz (110 gr) butter
1/2 cup highest quality cocoa
1/2 cup orange juice
1 1/2 Tbsp. Sabra liqueur or Cognac
2 tsp. sugar
2 eggs
1.1/2 tsp. instant coffee

Prepare the blintzes as in the original recipe.

In a saucepan combine the cocoa, sugar, instant coffee, and brandy. Mix well, add the eggs and beat together. Add the orange juice and place the mixture over a medium flame, stirring constantly until a boil is reached. Lower the flame and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute longer.

Remove the chocolate cream from the flame and add the butter, stirring well until the butter is completely dissolved. Let the mixture cool for at least 30 minutes. Fill the blintzes with the cream and roll up, folding the sides over to seal. Optionally may be served with sweetened whipped cream.

Other Fillings for Dessert Blintzes

Fresh Fruits: In a glass bowl, sprinkle raspberries, strawberries or thinly sliced bananas with sugar and either kirsch or cognac. Let stand for an hour and then use for a filling.

Jams and Preserves: In a double boiler, over hot water melt red currant jelly, raspberry, strawberry or cherry jam or preserves and stir in a little kirsch or cognac. Spread this filling on the crepes, roll and fold them and pile in a mound in a fireproof dish. Sprinkle over with melted butter and granulated sugar and heat through in a medium-hot oven. Flame with pre-warmed liqueur just before serving.

© Daniel Rogov