When people speak today of "breaking bread", their meaning is clear: they are talking about dining. It surprises many to learn that the original meaning of this seemingly simple phrase, which dates back to Biblical times, actually did refer to the physical act of breaking bread. Even in days of antiquity bread was considered so essential to the maintenance of human life that there was no act more social than sharing one's bread with others. During those early days of our culture, people did not use forks and knives, but ate with their fingers. Thus, bread was never sliced, it was literally "broken" or torn apart in order to be shared.

In time, the sharing of bread became an important social ritual, and by the time of the reign of the first Kings of Israel complex rituals had evolved as to precisely who would be the first at a table to break bread, about sharing one's bread with friends and strangers, and even about sharing one's bread with enemies. So important in the area of the Holy Land was this food staple and the rituals involved in eating it that we find no less than 400 references to bread in the Old and New Testaments, and at least eighty such references in the Koran.

Nor in olden days was there a shortage of different styles of bread in the Holy Land. It is reported that during the reign of King David that there were bread stalls not only in Jerusalem but in nearly every village. Although most people ate the most common kinds of flat bread, nobles and priests could choose from among as many as forty different types of bread, some of which were raised, others flat; some round, some conical, some plaited; some made with honey, some with herbs, spices and even fruits; and others, some of which contained milk and yet others that were made with eggs.

Modern Israelis of all religions and ethnic backgrounds have maintained their love of bread. In addition to a large variety of daily breads, the national repertoire also includes a large number of breads that are destined specially for use during holiday periods.


Easter Bread
Tsoureki

This especially luxurious bread, which is said to recall the sweetness of life, is set on the tables of members of the Greek Orthodox Church during their traditional Easter meal. In keeping with tradition, the bread is passed around the table, each diner breaking off a piece to put on his or her own plate.

1 package (30 grams) dry yeast
1/2 cup butter, melted
3 eggs
1/2 cup extra fine sugar
1 tsp. lemon rind, grated
3 cups flour
1 tsp. ground allspice
1/4 tsp. salt
sesame seeds to taste

Allow the ingredients to come to room temperature before starting.

In a small saucepan combine the milk and yeast until dissolved. Add the butter, 2 of the eggs, lemon rind and sugar and mix lightly but well.

Sift the flour, allspice and salt into a bowl and make a well in the center. Into this pour the yeast mixture and stir, blending in the flour gradually. With the hands mix the dough until it forms a ball and is free of the sides. Turn the dough onto a well floured board and knead until the mixture is smooth and satin-like. Form into a ball and transfer to an oiled bowl, rotating so that the entire surface is lightly coated with oil. Cover with a towel and let stand in a warm place until doubled in bulk.

Punch down the dough and place it on a well floured board. Knead lightly and divide into three equal portions. Roll each portion into a tube about 12" (30 cm) long. Press the ends together and braid the bread carefully, pressing the ends together. Transfer the loaf to a lightly greased baking dish, cover and let rise until again doubled in bulk. Mix the remaining egg with 1 Tbsp. of water and with this brush the top of the bread. Sprinkle with sesame seeds to taste. Place in an oven that has been preheated to 180 degrees Celsius (350 Fahrenheit) and bake until the bread is golden brown and cooked through (about 30 minutes). Remove from the oven and let cool on a rack. Yields 1 large loaf.


Bread for Epiphany Day
Roscon de Reyes

Known by some as Epiphany and by others as Twelfth Day, this holiday celebrates both the revealing of Jesus as the Christ to the Gentiles and the baptism of Jesus. To add to the joy of the holiday, a coin is buried in the bread and the one who finds it is thought to be the recipient of good luck. At any rate, the finder gets to keep the coin. This bread was introduced to Israel by Spanish monks who settled in Bethlehem in the 19th century.

1 package (30 gr.) dry yeast
1 Tbsp. orange flower water or very strong tea
6 whole cloves
1/2 tsp. grated lemon rind
1 cup butter
1/2 cup sugar
1 Tbsp. lard or vegetable shortening
1/2 tsp. salt
2 eggs
1/2 cup scalded and cooled milk
1 Tbsp. brandy
5 cups unbleached flour
1 silver coin (wrapped in aluminum foil), for luck
24 slices mixed candied fruits
2 Tbsp. coarse sugar
1 egg, beaten lightly with 1 tsp. cold water

Dissolve the yeast in 1/4 cup of warm water.

In a small saucepan mix together the orange flour water with 1/2 cup water, the lemon rind and cloves. Simmer, covered, for about 10 minutes. Remove from the flame, discard the cloves and let cool.

In a mixing bowl cream together the butter, sugar, lard and salt. Into this beat the eggs and then add the milk, brandy and orange-water mixture. Mix well and then add the yeast mixture. With a wood spoon, stirring constantly, slowly add the flour until a soft, sticky dough is obtained. Turn out onto a lightly floured board and knead for 5 minutes, adding more flour if necessary, to obtain a smooth, elastic dough.

Transfer the dough ball to a lightly oiled bowl, turning to coat the ball with the oil. Cover with a lightly dampened towel and let stand in a warm spot until doubled in size (about 2 1/2 hours). Punch down and knead again for 5 minute longer. Insert the coin.

Form the dough into a large ring, pinching the ends together to seal. Transfer to a lightly greased
cookie tin, decorate with the fruit slices by pushing them about half way into the dough and let stand in a warm spot until again doubled in bulk (about 1 hour). Brush with the beaten egg, sprinkle with the coarse sugar and bake in an oven that has been preheated to 180 degrees Celsius (350 Fahrenheit) until deep golden brown (about 35 minutes). Let cool before serving.

Saffron Doughnuts
Jalebi

Even though Jalebis have distinctly pastry-like qualities (some compare them to doughnuts), Israeli and other Moslems who live in the Mediterranean basin consider them the traditional bread with which tocelebrate the end of the fast of Ramadan.

1 envelope (30 gr.) dry yeast
1 tsp. saffron threads
2 3/4 cups flour, sifted
2 cups corn syrup
1 Tbsp. lime juice
1 1/2 tsp. powdered nutmeg
vegetable oil for deep frying

Dissolve the yeast in 1/4 cup of warm water.

In a separate small cup soak the saffron in 1/4 cup of boiling water for 15 minutes.

In a large bowl place the flour and add 1 1/2 cups of warm water and the dissolved yeast. Add the saffron water after straining and beat the mixture well.

In the top of a double boiler over but not in hot water heat the corn syrup. When warm add the lime juice and nutmeg.

In a large heavy skillet heat 5 cm. (2 inches) of oil to 185 degrees Celsius (360 Fahrenheit). Hold a finger on the tip of a large funnel and fill with the batter. Open the funnel by releasing the finger and move the funnel so the batter makes rings in the fat. Make a few rings at a time, holding the finger on the funnel when not using. When golden, turn the breads and let fry on the second side. Remove with a slotted spoon and dry on paper toweling. Dip the doughnuts into the syrup and place on waxed paper. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Georgian Cheese Bread

This bread comes from the Republic of Georgia, where it was made by Jews to celebrate the holiday of Shavuoth and Christians alike to celebrate the coinciding holiday of Pentecost. The bread was introduced into Israel during the 1970s, when many Georgians immigrated, and has already become a widely accepted part of both the Jewish and Christian holidays.

1 cup lukewarm milk
2 packages (60 gr. in all) dry yeast
1 Tbsp. + 1 tsp. sugar
about 4 cups of flour
125 gr. butter, softened
675 gr. mild camembert or brie type cheese
375 gr. feta or other tangy goat cheese
1 egg, lightly beaten
about 2 Tbsp. melted butter

In a small glass mix together 1/2 cup of the milk, the yeast and 1 tsp. of the sugar. Let stand at room temperature for 10 - 15 minutes and then add this mixture to the remaining milk.

Place 3 cups of flour into a large bowl and make a well in the center. Add the milk, remaining sugar and the softened butter. Stir with a rubber spatula until a firm dough ball is formed.

Turn the dough onto a floured work surface and knead for 10 minutes, adding flour as needed to prevent the dough from sticking. When the dough is elastic and no longer sticky, transfer to a greased bowl, turning the dough so that it is coated on all sides. Cover with a lightly dampened cloth and let stand in a warm place until doubled in bulk (about 1 1/2 hours).

Punch the dough down and let rise again until doubled in bulk (about 30 minutes).

Grate the Camembert cheese and crumble the goat cheese. Combine the two, add the egg and mix well.

Punch the dough down again and then roll out on a lightly floured surface to a circle about 50 cm. in diameter. Fold the dough in quarters and place the point of the dough in the center of a 23 cm. pan with sides about 5 cm high. Unfold the dough and let the excess hang over the sides.

Spoon the cheese mixture onto the dough and then pick up the excess dough hanging over the edges and pleat the dough over the cheese. Make sure all the pleats go in the same direction. Gather the ends of the dough in the center and twist into a small knob. Let stand for 10 minutes.

Brush the top of the dough with melted butter and bake on the center shelf of an oven that has been pre-heated to 190 degrees Celsius (375 Fahrenheit). Bake until the bread is golden (about 1 hour). Remove from the oven and let cool in the pan before serving. Serve warm or at room temperature.

© Daniel Rogov