Ramadan, the 9th month of the Moslem calendar, which starts this year at sundown on Tuesday, November 28th, is a month devoted to fasting. The Moslem faith is not an ascetic religion. On the contrary, it is a religion that encourages its followers to rejoice in the gifts that God has given the world. Thus, while fasting is not a rejection of pleasure it is considered to be a way to inculcate in people the control of their appetites and a discipline of their passions. Fasting is also meant to foster compassion for those people who are hungry and thirsty. Ramadan marks the month during which the first verses of the Koran were revealed to Mohammed. It is also the month during which he celebrated his first important military success at the Battle of Badr in 624. So important is the month long fast that it is considered one of the pillars of the Moslem faith and adults refrain from eating, drinking, smoking and others of the pleasures of the flesh from first light to last light. Those who are ill, traveling, nursing or pregnant are exempted from the need to fast.

At the end of each day of fasting, it is considered traditional for families to gather together, often with friends, to share the iftar, literally a break-fast. The first of the recipes that follows is considered a special treat for evening meals during Ramadan and the second is a sweet course often baked to celebrate the end of the month of fasting.

Fish with Onions and Raisins
Adapted from a recipe in Claudia Roden's New Book of Middle Eastern Food

4 sea bream (denise in Hebrew) or small sea bass (lavrak in Hebrew), cleaned
350 gr. onions, chopped finely
1/4 cup olive oil
350 gr. raisins, blanched for a few seconds in hot water and drained
1 1/2 tsp. cinnamon, 1/2 tsp. ginger and a generous pinch of nutmeg, mixed together with
salt and pepper to taste
1 or 2 large bunches of parsley

In a small mixing bowl, combine the chopped onions with 2 Tbsp. of the oil and a bit of salt. Stir well and let stand for about 15 minutes.

With a sharp knife, slash the skin of the fish diagonally in several places. Rub the fish inside and out with the remaining olive oil, and then with the spice mixture.

Spread the parsley in a baking dish and on this place the fish. Spread the onions and raisins over the fish, add 2 - 3 Tbsp. of water to the dish and bake in an oven that has been preheated to 160 degrees Celsius (325 Fahrenheit) until the raisins and onions will form a golden crust on the fish (about 30 - 45 minutes). Serve hot. (Serves 4).

Saffron Doughnuts
Jalebi

30 gr. dry yeast
1 tsp. saffron threads
2 3/4 cups flour, sifted
2 cups corn syrup
1 Tbsp. lime juice
1 1/2 tsp. powdered nutmeg
vegetable oil for deep frying

Dissolve the yeast in 1/4 cup of warm water. In a separate small cup soak the saffron in 1/4 cup of boiling water for 15 minutes.

Place the flour in a large bowl place and add 1 1/2 cups of warm water and the dissolved yeast. Strain the saffron water and add the liquids to the flour mixture. Beat well.

In the top of a double boiler over but not in hot water heat the corn syrup. When warm add the lime juice and nutmeg.

In a large heavy skillet heat 5 cm. (2") of oil to 180 degrees Cel sius (360 Fahrenheit). Hold a finger on the tip of a large funnel and fill with the batter. Open the funnel by releasing the finger and move the funnel so the batter makes rings in the fat. Make a few rings at a time, holding the finger on the funnel when not using. When golden, turn the jalebis and let fry on the second side. Remove with a slotted spoon and dry on paper toweling. Dip the jalebis into the syrup and place on waxed paper. Serve warm or at room temperature. (Serves 4 - 6).

© Daniel Rogov