Vertical tastings are always fascinating and informative as they present a series of multiple opportunities - not the least important of which is the ability to follow both an individual wine and a series of wines as they develop over the years. With regard to the Cabernet Sauvignon wines in the Yarden series of the Golan Heights Wineries, I have tasted these wines many times and at least twice before 2003 in vertical tastings. Despite that, the opportunity to taste vertically once again was one that could not be passed over and on 3 February 2003, such an opportunity presented itself at a tasting hosted by the winery at the Tel Aviv restaurant Margi.

One note about the scores seems necessary for after returning from the tasting and formalizing my notes, I realized that the scores were fairly high, perhaps reflecting a positive bias on my part. To test that, the following morning my at-home blind tasting consisted of 20 kosher reds (including three of those tasted at the Yarden tasting) and 20 non-kosher reds, all Cabernet Sauvignon blends, those matched to some extent by vintage year and regions. I was pleased both for my own palate and for Israeli wines that the scores awarded the Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon wines were all at or plus or minus 1 point of those awarded on the night of the tasting.

Following are my own notes on the evening's tastings:

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 1999: In its youth now and thus still quite marked by its tannins and but those well balanced by wood and fruit and with the promise to open very nicely indeed, one might be tempted to think of this wine as "brooding" at this stage. Deep royal purple towards garnet, this full bodied wine shows delicious black berries and cherries on a background of vanilla, sweet cedar wood and a hint of what now feels like freshly roasted coffee on its long finish. Those who like their wines on the tannic side will find this one thoroughly enjoyable now if they give it time to open in the glass but the wine will be at its best only in another year or two. Cellar until 2007 - 2008. Score 92. (Special Yarden Vertical, 3 Feb 2003)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 1998: Deep in color, with remarkable intensity and full body and now showing currant, plum, black cherry, vanilla lightly toasted oak in its flavors and aromas, this well balanced wine is just beginning to come into its own. Good balance between fruits, wood and tannins, a long finish in which you will find mineral-earthy overtones and a very appealing hint of anise. Approachable now but best only from 2004 - 2008. Score 91. (Special Yarden Vertical, 3 Feb 2003)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 1997: The traditional Yarden blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc (94%, 5% and 1% respectively), has now opened nicely and continues to show an overall firm structure and good balance between its soft tannins, fruits, wood and acidity. Plenty of Cabernet currants here along with black berries and plums on the first attack, these yielding nicely to gentle overlays of spices and Mediterranean herbs. Drinking very nicely now, the wine is destined to maintain its peak for quite a while. Cellar without fear until 2006 - 2008. Score 91. (Special Yarden Vertical, 3 Feb 2003)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 1996: Not even a hint of Merlot in this release which is composed of 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc, but that no problem at all as the wine is developing very nicely indeed. Concentrated and intense, this medium to full bodied wine is now showing plum, currant and cherry fruits, those complemented nicely by vanilla and anise on the mid-palate, these giving way to very appealing herbal sensations on the finish. If any wine can be said to have "sweet tannins" this is that wine. Drinking beautifully now but do not hesitate to cellar until 2006 - 2008. Score 90. (Special Yarden Vertical, 3 Feb 2003)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 1995: As has been the situation since its release, this is a wine that demands time to open in the glass but as it does it reveals its charms very nicely indeed. My last formal tasting note hold firm: A wine that needs to open but by heaven, once poured it opens and opens and opens, revealing luscious layers of flavors of black currants, plums, tobacco and vanilla in its flavors and aromas. Full bodied and with concentrated but now smooth tannins, the wine promises to continue developing nicely in the bottle until 2005 - 2008. Look for a pleasing hint of raspberry flavor as the wine lingers on the palate" If I would add anything it is only that a pleasing touch of earthiness now makes itself felt on the finish. Score 92. (Special Yarden Vertical, 3 Feb 2003)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 1994: Any winemaker who tells you that 1994 was a great year is lying to you. Happily, even though this wine never attained the heights of the best wines of this series, it manages even now to demonstrate how a competent winemaker can make the best of a mediocre crop. Medium bodied, with almost compote-like flavors of prunes, black fruits and floral-earthy overtones, the wine is drinking nicely now but is not destined for further cellaring. Drink now or in the next year. Score 87. (Special Yarden Vertical, 3 Feb 2003)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 1993: Now royal purple in color, this solid, concentrated and full bodied wine is living up to its promise in every possible way. In my most recently published tasting note (14 Feb 2001) I wrote: "One of the very best wines ever produced in Israel. With impeccable balance and an elegant bouquet, this concentrated, full bodied and powerful wine has now attained enviable levels of roundness, depth and complexity. Silky tannins that give the wine just the right bite, flavors that unfold comfortably on the palate and a long finish make this a wine that, while drinking very nicely now, will store nicely for another 6 - 8 years. If luxury in wines is your passion, this is a wine for you!" If there is an update on that it is only that the wine now shows an enchanting hint of tobacco on the palate. Drink now - 2010. Score 94. (Special Yarden Vertical, 3 Feb 2003)
Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1992: Full bodied, with its tannins now fully integrated and showing abundant black fruits, vanilla and an appealing herbal-earthy-tobacco overlay, this well balanced and generous wine is drinking well very nicely now and shows a moderately long finish on which a hint of sweetness arises. Not destined for further long-term cellaring so drink up now or in the next year or so. Score 90. (Special Yarden Vertical, 3 Feb 2003)
Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1991: At and perhaps a bit past its peak, this deep purple, medium to full bodied wine continues to open to reveal traditional Cabernet flavors and aromas, those including black currants, cedar wood and black cherries. On the finish herbal-mineral overtones. If you have any left on hand, drink up in the near future before the wine begins to go too far beyond its peak. Score 87. (Special Yarden Vertical, 3 Feb 2003)
Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 1990: The more often I taste this wine the more it convinces me that it is indeed a superb and delicious wine. During its youth this wine showed almost massive tannins and a concentration so intense that some wondered if the wine would ever be more than searingly deep. My own estimate even then was that this wine was so well structured and well balanced that it would indeed open. Not having lost an iota of its rich concentration and its power, but now drinking beautifully, the traditional blackcurrant, oak and vanilla interplay very nicely indeed with overlays of aromatic cedar, leather and tobacco. A remarkably long finish here. Drinking beautifully now but this one can be cellared without fear for another four or five years. Score 94+. (Special Yarden Vertical, 3 Feb 2003)
Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 1989: I once wrote that this wine displayed a "virtual rainbow of aromas". Now at its peak, that remains true, for this delicious and elegant wine shows a remarkable array of flavors and aromas that open seemingly without end on the palate. One hates to make lists, but look here for currants, black berries, cherries, coffee, leather, toasted bread, smoky oak, vanilla and a hint of tobacco that is now creeping in. Delicious drinking now or in the next two years. Score 92. (Special Yarden Vertical, 3 Feb 2003).
Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 1988: Now darkening and starting to brown at the rim, and with dark fruits, currants, vanilla and spices now clearly overlaid with aromas and flavors of damp earth, herbs and smoked meats, the wine continues to drink nicely even though perhaps a bit past its peak. Never the "best" of the series, the wine should be taken out of storage and consumed in the near future. Score 87. (Special Yarden Vertical, 3 Feb 2003)
Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 1985: This is the fourth occasion on which I have noted that this seems to be "a wine that simply won't die". My last tasting was two years ago. Remarkably, not a word changes between that tasting note and this: ":Deep and warm, concentrated, heady and exotic, with spicy plum, blackcurrants and blackberries all overlayed with stewed fruits, chocolate and leather, this is a wine that belies its age, making for remarkably exciting drinking. Mouthfilling, and with flavors of coffee and chocolate that linger nicely, I have come to that point where I simply refuse to say how long this wine will last". Since that tasting my personal stock has been reduced to a mere single bottle. I intend to drink that one in 2005 to celebrate the wine's 20th birthday. Score 93. (Special Yarden Vertical, 3 Feb 2003)

© Daniel Rogov