On 29 December 2002, I attended a vertical tasting that included all of the wines produced to date by Eli Ben Zaken's Castel Winery. With the exception of the 2002 wines, I had tasted all of these before, quite a few of them on many occasions and have followed many from the barrel to their current status. As always, vertical tastings are fascinating, for in addition to allowing one a comparative sampling of the same wine over the years they also offer the critic a unique to see how their earlier predictions have fared - a test if one likes, not only of the wines but of our own validity and predictive ability. That the score one assigns to a wine can vary by one or two points from tasting to tasting (even over short periods of time) has very little meaning, but that those scores and our predicted drinking windows maintain an overall constancy indicates a great deal, not only about the wines but about our tasting abilities. Thus, although such vertical tastings are enormously pleasing, they are also challenging. Such tastings are, of course, not done blind, but it is my own policy to make my notes and award scores at the tasting and only later, when formalizing our notes, to compare to earlier notations. This particular tasting was organized by sommelier Avi Ben Ami and hosted by chef Daniel Zach at Tel Aviv's "Carmella ba Nachala".

One important note: Although several of the 2002 wines were offered for a first tasting, I feel that with the harvest completed less than three months ago and final blends not yet made it is far too early to comment on the reds of this vintage. With luck, I will receive an invitation to sample these again in another 4 - 5 months.

Grand Vin Castel 1992 - 2001

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 2001 (Barrel Sampling): At an earlier barrel tasting (21 Apr 2002), I wrote that this wine was "still in its infancy and thus quite closed but already beginning to reveal its delicious and complex flavors and aromas. As the wine develops look for earthy currant, black cherry, sage and cedar wood flavors and aromas. Full bodied and with long lingering flavors, that may eventually include coffee and chocolate, this is a wine definitely worth waiting for". As should be hoped for, the intervening eight months have allowed the tannins to begin integrating, the fruits to come more to the fore and the to already show off its enormous potential. Tentative Score 92 - 94.

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 2000 (Advance Tasting): A wine delicious enough to give the 1999 wine a good run for its money. Still muscular and with tannins still firm because of the wine's youth, but already showing the promise of elegance, this intense wine shows multiple layers of black fruits along with an appealing earthy-herbal note that runs through and a long, spicy finish that lingers nicely on the palate. The wine will be approachable on release but should be held as it will attain its peek somewhere about 2005 - 2006. Score 93.

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 1999: I stay with my choice as this being Castel's best wine released to date. Still young, this full bodied deep ruby towards dark purple wine reflects admirable structure and balance. Abundant tannins, those starting to integrate nicely, generous and elegant black fruits (look especially now for currants, plums and black berries) along with hints of licorice and eucalyptus, and a spicy finish. Call it wish fulfillment (based on earlier predictions) or call it reality, but I cannot help but feel that light cigar box and cigar tobacco aromas and flavors are now beginning to develop in the wine. Approachable now but best from 2004 - 2007. Score 93.

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 1998: For a while, I was worried about this wine. Not in the traditional sense but in a rather odd fashion for every time I tasted it it seemed better and better. Simple enough, this was a wine that needed time to find its internal consistency and now that it has it proves to be an excellent effort indeed. Plenty of firm but well integrated tannins and overall excellent balance between those, spicy oak and fruits with plums, black cherries, blackberry and currant flavors and aromas that interplay nicely on the palate. A long, almost sweet and spicy vanilla finish here. Drinking beautifully now but not yet at its peak which I estimate the wine will attain in another year or so. Score 91.

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 1997: Perhaps Castel's most hedonistic wine, with remarkably intense blackcurrant and black cherry fruits, Mediterranean herbs, an abundant but very well balanced sense of the oak in which it aged, and a long finish in which pepper and anise make themselves nicely felt. Looking back at older notes, I see that on two occasions I referred to this wine as "supple and harmonious", and find those very good descriptors even now. Drinking beautifully now, the wine should cellar nicely until 2004 - 2005. Score 92.

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 1996:Now fully developed and showing its very best face, this full bodied wine shows excellent balance between ample tannins, cedar wood and an array of flavors and aromas that unfold very nicely in the glass and on the palate. Complexity on the palate in the form of currants, herbs, tobacco and a hint of mint and excellent integration between the different elements. Drinking very well indeed now but the wine should continue to cellar comfortably for several years longer. Score 93.

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 1995: Concentration, intensity and elegance in this medium to full bodied wine. Deep currant, purple plum, black cherry fruits that fold very nicely into a background of chocolate and what has developed into earthy-tobacco and cedar wood flavors and aromas. Harmonious and drinking beautifully now but the wine promises to cellar well for at least two more years. Score 91.

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 1994: From its release, this wine struck me as having a lace-like, almost delicate texture and a somewhat atypical (for Castel) sweet finish. None of which should be held against the wine, however, for during its heyday it drank very nicely indeed, with currants, cherries, plums and vanilla showing good balance with moderate tannins and wood. Still drinkable but definitely beyond its peak and on the decline at this writing, the wine is no longer scoreable.

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 1993: Now taking on a deep adobe brick red color but still rich and round, with ample black currants, a light bitter nuttiness and deeper herbaceousness than it had earlier, this wine is clearly past its peak but still drinking nicely, comfortably reflecting its early excellence. Not meant for further cellaring. Score 90.

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 1992: This very first wine released by Castel always made me think more of Italy than of Bordeaux in its style, but that was no problem because the wine was delicious and complex and it was apparent from this effort that exciting things were about to happen in this then miniature winery located in the Judean Hills. It is no shame whatever that after a full decade this first effort is now well past its prime. Still showing dark fruits but now only reflecting a shadow of its once fine balance, the wine drinks well when first poured but then rather quickly fades in the glass. If you have any left on hand, drink up in the very near future. No longer scoreable.

Petit Castel - 1998 - 2001

Castel, Petit Castel, 2001 (Barrel Tasting): This was my second barrel tasting of this wine (the first was on 21 Apr 2002) and there were no surprises in store this time around, the wine continuing to develop very nicely. As a second wine should do, this one promises to yield an effort that will be approachable at an earlier stage than the Grand Vin of the same year and offer generous hints of what that first wine will be. Plenty of currant, berry and wood now in this deep ruby towards purple wine, those matched nicely by cedar wood and an overlaying earthy quality. Tentative score 90.

Castel, Petit Castel, 2000: Medium to full bodied, this deep garnet towards royal purple wine has smooth, already well integrated tannins and an attractive array of fruits (look for currants, black cherries and plus) to which generous hints of oak and a dash of spiciness add charm. Drinking nicely now but the wine will be fully ready only from 2003. Cellar until 2005. Score 89.

Castel, Petit Castel, 1999: As it has since first tasted, this appealing wine shows medium to full body, and appealing currant and cherry-berry notes that come together nicely with lightly smoky-toasty and spicy aroma and flavors. With moderate levels of smooth tannins, tantalizing bittersweet and herbal note that come in at the finish and just the right touch of oak the wine is drinking very nicely now and should cellar comfortably until 2004 - 2005. Score 89+.

Castel, Petit Castel, 1998: Living fully up to its potential, this remains a ripe, rich and harmonious wine, showing fine balance between smooth tannins, smoky wood and black currant, black cherry fruits. Well balanced and with a spicy finish, the wine is drinking beautifully now and promises to cellar well for several years longer. Score 90.

Castel "C", Chardonnay, 1998 - 2002

Castel "C", Chardonnay, 2002 (Barrel Tasting): Still not fully formed, as should be expected of any infant, but already showing the kind of promise that makes one want to follow its development over time as the wine pulls together and develops its potential. Potentially a full-bodied, long lived, elegant Burgundy style white, now showing citrus, pineapple and green apple flavors and aromas but those promising to integrate and show what may well be toasted bread, fig and a comfortably nutty finish.
Definitely one to follow. Tentative score 91 - 93.

Castel "C", Chardonnay, 2001 (Advance Tasting): Medium to full bodied but remarkably mouthfilling and living up to its promise to show depth and length and elegance, this somewhat lighter but no less delicious Chardonnay effort by Castel is now showing tempting white peach, nectarine, pineapple and citrus, all on a just firm enough toasty-oak background and with appealing nutty and vanilla flavors that come in on the long finish. Already out of the barrel and now waiting in stainless steel vats to be bottled, the wine promises to cellar nicely. Score 92.

Castel "C", Chardonnay, 2000: Medium to full bodied, now taking on a somewhat darker golden straw color and evolving beautifully, and with generous pear, fig and citrus, all on a background that at one moment feels like butterscotch and another like toasty bread, this elegant wine is evolving beautifully.
Somewhat lighter than earlier "C" releases, the wine is drinking beautifully now but the should continue to make good drinking until 2004 - 2005. Score 91.

Castel, "C", Chardonnay, 1999: I continue to compare this full bodied and elegant wine with the whites of Montrachet and Mersault, for with its nutty, mineral and summer fruit aromas and flavors, all unfolding beautifully on the palate, this complex and elegant wine continues develop very nicely in the bottle. Drinking well now but the wine should cellar comfortably to drink very well indeed and promises to continue to develop until 2005 - 2006. Score 94.

Castel, "C", Chardonnay, 1998: This first Chardonnay made by the winery was a rousing success on release and now comfortably lives up to its promise. Deep golden in color, this full bodied and lush wine continues to show rich summer fruit and pear flavors and tempting spicy oak flavors all on a lush, velvety texture. Long on the palate with a welcome hint of bitter almonds that has crept in, the wine is drinking beautifully now and should continue to cellar well for another year or two. Score 93.

© Daniel Rogov