When it comes to the weeklong holiday of Chanukah, which in 2002 starts on Saturday, 30 November, it makes no difference whether a Jew lives in Jerusalem, Hoboken, New Jersey or Aix-en-Provence - for one of the few things that all agree on is that the king of the holiday is the latke (pronounce that lot-keh), the deep fried pancakes that are beloved by children and adults of any age.

Now there is nothing difficult about understanding what a latke is. Latkes are potato pancakes, but unlike potato pancakes dished up by Protestants, Catholics, Muslims, Hindis or members of any other faith whatever, latkes have been given a special blessing - perhaps not by God but certainly by the generations of Jews who have prepared them with love for the holiday since the 15th century. Unlike other potato pancakes, there is simply nothing gentle, sophisticated or subtle about the latke. With lots of salt, pepper and onion and in nearly all cases deep fried, these are culinary treats that while they may not quite hint you on the head will surely make a lasting impression (some might go as far as to say dent) in the stomach. All of which fades into insignificance, however, for latkes are magnificent fare. Fattening, bad for the arteries, probably bad for many things, but be of good cheer for Chanukah comes but once a year.

Latkes
The traditional Jewish recipe

12 large potatoes, grated coarsely
3 medium onions, grated
4 eggs, beaten lightly
5 Tbsp. flour
3 tsp. salt
1 tsp. pepper
oil for deep frying

Using a clean tea towel squeeze out as much of the liquid from the potatoes as possible. (The more liquid that can be squeezed out, the better will be the latkes). In a similar fashion, squeeze out the liquid from the onions. Combine all the ingredients and mix together well by hand.

In a heavy skillet heat oil a minimum of 3/4" (2 cm) deep. Form individual pancakes by hand and when the oil is thoroughly hot slide in enough pancakes to fill most of the pot, but be sure to leave room between the pancakes. When the latkes are nicely browned on the first side, turn them and cook until browned on both sides and crisp on the edges. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper toweling. Serve immediately or keep warm in a very low oven. Serve plain, with salt, with sour cream, applesauce or sugar for sprinkling over.

A few hints: (a) As the batter sits, liquids will accumulate no matter how well you have squeezed the individual ingredients. Drain these from time to time. (b) Many people find it wise to use two skillets simultaneously so that the supply of hot latkes will continue to reach guests without interruption.

Variation: To make Polish Ratzelech, add 2 large peeled, cored and grated apples to the batter and fry the pancakes in a large skillet with about 1" (2 1/2 cm) of hot chicken fat.

© Daniel Rogov