Whether they come to Nazareth, Jerusalem, Bethlehem or Jaffa to celebrate Christmas, many western visitors are surprised to find that despite many similarities, the celebration of the holiday in Israel and the Palestinian state differs considerably from the style to which they have been accustomed.

The official celebration of the holiday opens with a parade. Starting at about 3 p.m. preceding Christmas Eve boy and girl scout troops, members of local church organizations and the elected officials of the town march to the church where the main mass will be held. Church banners, statues of saints and holy relics are born proudly by men and women who have been deemed especially fit for this honor. One or more local bands accompany the parade and, somewhere near the end of the order of procession will be church dignitaries and either the local or a visiting bishop.

In small towns, because the great majority of regional Christians are Arabs, the mass is held primarily in Arabic. In larger centers such as Bethlehem, Jerusalem and Nazareth, the masses are celebrated in a combination of Arabic, French, English and Latin. The music, whether choral, orchestral or organ relies on an a blend of local and classical sounds. Bach, Brahms and traditional Arabic atonal music come together with a surprising grace. That Silent Night, Come All Ye Faithful and other western carols are sung at all is primarily a nod to Western television networks that broadcast the services to places as far away as San Francisco, London, Tokyo and Fiji.

Despite whatever differences one notes, there is an undeniable and special beauty to celebrating Christ's birthday in the land in which he was born. In Bethlehem, for example, the mass is celebrated in the Basilica of the Nativity, and part of the service involves a visit to the cave-like manger that is traditionally considered Jesus' birthplace. In Nazareth, where Jesus spent his childhood, services are held in the Church of the Annunciation, where one can visit the remains of the house that was shared by Mary, Joseph and Jesus, and at Tabgha, services are held at the traditional site of the Miracle of the Loaves and Fishes.

To many in the English-speaking world, Christmas is a holiday that takes place each year on December 25th. In Israel, however, Christmas is a holiday that occurs at least four times. Even though Protestants and Roman Catholics celebrate on December 25th, other sects, using different calendars will rejoice on other dates. In fact, it is not unusual for Greek and Russian Orthodox, Ethiopian Orthodox Armenian Orthodox and the Maronite churches to celebrate Christmas anywhere from the third to the twentieth of January.

Several years ago, I was invited to Christmas dinner with friends in Nazereth. The meal, based on traditional Middle-Eastern dishes, all of which are well known among Jews, Christians and Moslems, was marvelous and if replicated today will provide a joyful meal no matter where one finds themselves celebrating the holiday. Unless otherwise noted, each of the following recipes is designed to serve 6.


Lamb Meatballs in Brandy Sauce

2 1/4 lb. (1 kilo) lamb, ground
1/4 cup parsley, chopped
2 eggs
4 - 6 cloves garlic, crushed
salt and pepper to taste
1 cup breadcrumbs
1/4 cup dry red wine
2 Tbsp. each olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped finely
1/4 cup brandy
1 cup chicken or beef stock
3 Tbsp. tomato sauce


In a mixing bowl combine the lamb, parsley, eggs, garlic, salt and pepper. In a separate bowl soak the breadcrumbs in the wine and then add to the meat mixture. By hand mix together thoroughly and then form meatballs about 1 1/4" (3 cm.) in diameter.

In a large skillet heat the oil and in this brown the meatballs on all sides. Add the onion and continue to saute until the onion is translucent. Pour in the brandy, let heat through and then carefully flame. Stir until the flames are extinguished, add the stock and tomato sauce and correct the seasoning with salt to taste. Cover and cook over a medium-low flame until the meatballs are done (about 40 minutes). Serve hot.

Vegetable Soup with Olive Oil

2 bunches sage leaves or 1 Tbsp. dried sage
3 - 4 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup olive oil
4 large artichoke hearts, quartered
2 large carrots, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
4 oz. (115 gr.) each green peas and lima beans
2 cups beef or chicken stock
1 dried hot red pepper, crumbled or Tabasco sauce to taste
salt and pepper to taste
6 eggs
6 thick slices Italian or French bread
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, grated

In the bottom of a large flameproof casserole dish scatter the sage leaves and minced garlic and over these pour the olive oil. Add the artichoke hearts, carrots, celery, green peas and lima beans and cook, stirring constantly, over a high flame for 2 - 3 minutes. Add the stock, 1 cup of water and the hot red pepper. Slowly bring to a boil and add salt and pepper to taste. Reduce the flame and simmer until the vegetables are tender (about 20 minutes). Five minutes before the soup is done break the eggs in and poach for the last five minutes of cooking.

Tear the bread into chunks and place these in a soup tureen. Transfer the soup with the eggs to the tureen and sprinkle over with the grated cheese. Allow to cool for 1/2 hour and serve.


Fried Halibut with Parsley Sauce


1 1/2 cups parsley, chopped coarsely
2 cloves garlic, chopped
juice of 1 large lemon
salt and pepper as required
1/4 cup flour
6 halibut steaks, about 1" (2 1/2 cm.) thick (may also use steaks from any firm-fleshed fish)
3/4 cup olive oil
1/2 cup onion, chopped

In a blender or food processor combine the parsley and garlic with 2 Tbsp. of water and blend until the mixture is completely smooth. Thin with 2 more Tbsp. of water and mix well. Add the lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Set aside, covered.

On a flat plate combine the flour with about « tsp. each of salt and pepper and mix well. Into this dip the fish steaks, coating well and shaking off whatever excess adheres. In a large, heavy skillet heat the oil and in this fry the fish until well browned on both sides. Transfer the fish to a preheated serving platter and set aside to keep warm.

Discard about half of the oil in which the steaks were fried and in the remaining oil saute the onions until golden-brown. Add the remaining flour and over a low flame cook until the mixture is light brown, stirring constantly. Add the water and parsley mixture and cook, continuing to stir, for 2 - 3 minutes longer. Pour the sauce over the fish and serve immediately.


Fruit Sherbet

3/4 cup rose petal, strawberry or raspberry jam
3 cups pineapple, shredded (may use tinned)
1/4 cup lemon juice
1 Tbsp. rose water
crystallized rose petals for garnish (optional)

In a small saucepan heat the jam and then strain well. Combine with 3 cups of water and then cool. Add the pineapple, lemon juice and rose water. Transfer the mixture to ice trays, cover with foil and freeze until thick but not solid. Remove from the freezer, stir well and then transfer to individual dessert glasses. Return to the freezer until the sherbet is almost frozen and then stir again. Return again to the freezer to freeze solid. Transfer to the regular refrigeration compartment about 15 minutes before serving. (Serves 8 - 12).

© Daniel Rogov