In few places in the world is Christmas celebrated with more reverence and joy than at the Franciscan monastery at Capurnaum. Located on the northwestern shore of the Sea of Galilee, the first recorded reference to the village is found in the writings of the Roman historian Josephus, who described the village, which was even then known by the same name, as "situated on highly fertile soil, located on a spring of fresh water ... the home of fishermen who made their living from the lake and wealthy merchants".

The New Testament tells us that during Roman days, when Jesus "departed unto Galilee and leaving Nazereth, he came and dwelt in Capernaum" (Mark 4.12). So strongly was the village associated with Jesus during the early days of Christianity, that it was often referred to as "his own city" and it was from Capurnaum that many of the earliest followers of Jesus came, including several of the original disciples.

When the Franciscan fathers first purchased the site in 1891, all that remained were dusty, largely buried ruins, but under their patient supervision a church and monastery were erected. In 1905, working together with professional archaeologists, the remains of the white limestone synagogue of the village, originally built in the 2nd or 3rd century AC and an important symbol to Jews and Christians alike, were excavated. The fathers themselves cleared and partially restored the building and visitors to the site will find this to be one of the best preserved synagogues of its period. Measuring 360 square meters (3,960 square feet, the building consists of a main basilica-shaped hall with one large and two small entrances in the facade which face south towards Jerusalem. Even though the interior is undecorated, the facade contains elaborate carvings and bas reliefs and the hall consists of two parallel rows of columns along its length and stone benches around the wall. Many speculate that this synagogue was built on the site of an older one, and it was there that Jesus is said to have gone to preach on several Sabbaths.

Christmas of 1891 arrived even before the twelve original Franciscans had succeeded in completing their first permanent building. Despite the fact that they were still living in makeshift huts and tents, the fathers decided to celebrate the holiday by following their Christmas day mass with an appropriate feast to which they would invite all of the Christians living within walking distance of the village. According to the diary of Brother Antius, who was in charge of recording the history of the community, the meal consisted entirely of dishes that Jesus himself might have eaten during the years that he lived in Capurnaum.

Even today, many of the Christians living near the shores of the Sea of Galilee celebrate Christmas at Capernaum with the Franciscans, and the meal they share remains one traditional to the days in which Jesus lived there. One need not, however, live in the Holy Land to make this same Christmas meal, for nearly all of the ingredients can be easily found wherever one resides. Unless otherwise noted, each of the following recipes is designed to serve 6. If these dishes are served together as a meal, there will be quite enough to serve 8.


Artichoke Pie

dough for two pie tins
14 artichoke hearts, cooked until tender and chopped
1/2 cup beef marrow, chopped
6 Tbsp. lemon juice
4 sweetbreads, soaked, cleaned and chopped
1 Tbsp. tarragon, chopped
salt and pepper to taste
3 cups sweet cream
1/4 tsp. nutmeg
6 eggs
4 egg yolks


With the pastry dough line two 23 or 25 cm. pie tins. Fill the pie tins with uncooked rice and place in an oven that has been preheated to 200 degrees Celsius (400 Fahrenheit) and bake for twenty minutes. Remove the rice (which may later be cooked in the usual way), and set the pastry shells aside to cool.

In a mixing bowl combine the chopped artichokes, beef marrow and 4 Tbsp. of the lemon juice. Pound these together to make a paste. Distribute this paste evenly over the two pie shells. Scatter over the sweetbreads, sprinkle with the tarragon and the remaining lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper.

In a saucepan combine the cream, nutmeg and 1/4 tsp. of salt. Heat through but do not boil. In a bowl beat together the eggs and yolks and over these pour the hot cream, beating well with a whisk. Pour this mixture over the pie filling and bake in a medium oven until set (about 25 minutes). Serve hot.

Spinach Soup with Sour Cream

1 kilo spinach leaves
6 spring onions, chopped coarsely
2 tsp. salt
juice of 2 lemons
3/4 tsp. sugar
2 eggs
1 cup sour cream

Wash the spinach thoroughly and drain well. Chop the spinach and place in a large saucepan with the spring onions and 6 cups of cold water. Add the salt, stir well and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and add the lemon juice and sugar. Cover and let simmer on a medium-low flame for 20 minutes. Remove from the flame and let cool.

Beat the eggs in a bowl and gradually add in 1 cup of the cooled broth, stirring constantly. Add this mixture to the soup slowly, stirring. Refrigerate until just before serving and then mix in the sour cream, stirring well until completely blended. Serve cold.


Trout with Herbs

Although trout were not found in the lakes of the Middle-East during the time of Jesus they have assumed a special popularity during the Christmas season in recent years.

2 Tbsp. each thyme, marjoram, parsley and tarragon, all chopped
6 or 8 trout or any other firm fleshed fresh water fish, with heads and tails intact
1 cup flour
1/2 tsp. each salt and black pepper
1 cup milk
1/2 cup butter, melted
lemon wedges for garnish

Mix together the herbs and divide the mixture into 6 equal portions. With each portion fill the cavity of a single fish, distributing the herbs well.

Mix together the flour, salt and pepper.

Dip the trout first in the milk and then in the flour, coating well. Grill the trout over hot charcoals or under a hot broiler until golden brown on each side (about 6 minutes on each side). Pour the melted butter over the trout and serve hot with lemon wedges.

Chicken with Mushrooms

1/2 cup olive oil
2 chickens, about 2 1/2 kilos in all, cut in convenient serving pieces
1/4 cup butter
1/4 cup parsley, chopped
2 onions, chopped
2 Tbsp. celery, chopped
2 Tbsp. celery leaves, chopped
8 bay leaves
6 cloves garlic, crushed
200 gr. small whole mushrooms
1 cup dry white wine
about 2 cups chicken stock
juice of 3 lemons
salt and pepper to taste

In a heavy skillet heat 3 Tbsp. of the olive oil and in this saute the chicken pieces until they are golden. With a slotted spoon remove the pieces and set aside.

Add to the skillet the remaining oil, butter, parsley, onion, celery, celery leaves, garlic, bay leaves and mushrooms and on these lay the chicken pieces. Cook on a medium flame for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. Season to taste with salt and pepper and add the wine. Continue cooking until the wine has evaporated and then pour in just enough of the stock to cover the chicken. Bring to a boil, reduce the flame and simmer on a low flame for 45 minutes. Add the lemon juice, remove from the flame, cover the skillet and place in an oven that has been preheated to 150 degrees Celsius (300 Fahrenheit) for 30 minutes. Serve with the gravy directly from the skillet.

Apple Cream

For the apples:
6 apples, peeled, cored and quartered
2 cups rose or white wine
1 1/2 cups sugar
rind of 1 lemon
pinch each of dried rosemary and thyme
1 cup sweet cream, whipped stiff
1/2 cup sweet Sherry
25 gr. unflavored gelatin

For the custard sauce:
1 cup milk
1/4 cup each sugar and flour
3 egg yolks
2 tsp. butter
peel of 1/2 lemon

In a saucepan combine the apples, rose wine, sugar, lemon rind, rosemary and thyme. Simmer just until the apples are soft and then strain, reserving the wine. Puree the apples and place them in a bowl. Add the reserved rose wine.

In the top of a double boiler soak the gelatin in the sherry for 5 minutes. Over hot water melt the mixture and then add it to the apples. Stir well and let cool. When the mixture begins to become stiff, fold in the whipped cream. Pour into a mold that has been rinsed in cold water and then refrigerate, covered, until firm.

Before serving prepare a custard sauce by combining the milk and lemon peel in a saucepan. Bring just to the boiling point and immediately reduce the flame and simmer very gently for 10minutes.

In a separate saucepan gradually stir the sugar into the egg yolks. With a wire whisk beat until the mixture is pale yellow. Into this beat the flour and then gradually add the hot milk. Cook over a medium flame, stirring constantly, until the mixture is thickened and smooth. Remove from the flame and stir in the butter until melted and the mixture is smooth throughout. Let the mixture come to room temperature, stirring occasionally before serving.

To serve, dip the mold with the apple cream into a bowl of hot water for several seconds. Unmold the apple cream and serve with the custard sauce.

© Daniel Rogov