Some of the most exciting dining these days is taking place in the United States where chefs are serving up dishes that challenge the talents of the very best French and Italian chefs. Modern American cuisine is now making itself locally. As in America, menus change rapidly in these places, sometimes even from week to week, partly in order to entertain us and partly to keep us guessing as to what will be offered on our next visit. Unless otherwise noted, prices range from moderate to moderately-high.

Mika, Rehov Montifiore 27, Tel Aviv. Tel: 03 5283255. Chef Mika Sharon spent seven years at New York's ultimately in Tribeca Grill. Her crab cakes of flaked crab meat packed together into thick disks, coated with breadcrumbs and then deep fried are special treats and not to be missed. Equally sophisticated and tempting are mussels served with sake and coconut milk on a bed of pasta; the shrimps in green curry sauce on a bed of couscous; the crabs prepared in a wok together with Thai chili peppers and sake; and the fillet steak that is served with a potato puree with wassabi and tempura fried onion rings. My favorite dessert here is the ginger flavored creme brulee.

Chimichanga, Rehov Kremenitsky 6, Tel Aviv. Tel: 03 5613232.The Santa-Fe cuisine at this informal but remarkably pleasant restaurant is a fascinating combination of Mexican traditional dishes and North American culinary sophistication. Start off by drinking one or two of the excellent frozen strawberry Margarita cocktails (if you drink more than one be sure to take a taxi home). As opening courses consider the duck tortillas, the spicy grilled calamari and onions, and the chunky and flavorful guacamole. Continue with the chicken and bean chimichanga with pureed black beans, the chicken enchilada or the lightly spiced shrimp salad.

Dixie, Rehov Igal Alon 120, Tel Aviv. Tel: 03 6966123. An American steakhouse with distinctly French and Mediterranean touches. As starters, consider the carpaccio of beef in a peppery lemon sauce; the miniature phyllo pastry "pizzas" with tomatoes, cheese and fresh herbs, and the lightly pickled salmon served on a bed of lettuce. My own favorite main courses here are the 300 gram hamburgers and the fat-rimmed T-bone steaks. If you are in an extravagant mood, try one of the aged 900 gram porterhouse steaks that are a house specialty. Whatever you order, don't forget to order a side order of the fried onion rings.

Birnbaum and Mandelbaum; Sderot Rothschild 35, Tel Aviv. Tel: 03 5664949. Even though it is located in Tel Aviv, this may be the New York steakhouse par excellence. Relaxed, attractive and comfortable, my personal favorites include the chopped chicken liver served with fried onions, the fried calamari, the beef carpaccio, the corned beef platter, the sirloin, T-bone and fillet steaks and the excellent hamburgers. Not to be missed are the good, crisp chips and the delicious fried onion rings. The wine list is excellent..

Erez, Rehov Barekit (corner of Rehov Maskit), Herzliya Pituach. Tel: 09 9559892. California dining that is fun, relaxed and delicious. As first courses consider the salad of arugula, bread croutons and figs, in a delicious raspberry vinaigrette sauce, and the cold yoghurt and eggplant soup. The main courses I have most enjoyed here are mussels in a sauce of white wine, garlic, wild lemons, ginger and lemon grass; the beef fillet served with salsa and a marvelously flavored potato puree; and the lovely 300 gram hamburger served with a slice of Erez' country-style bread that is spread partly with well herbed, home made ketchup and partly with mayonnaise. The desserts are all good but the one that is special is a tart of filo dough filled with small figs and an exquisite mascrapone cream..

© Daniel Rogov