In Israel as in the rest of the world (well, except perhaps for China) tere is no offering more popular in Chinese restaurants than eggrolls. Made by finely chopping or shredding one combination or another of pork, shrimps, bean sprouts, cabbage, carrots, rice wine and spices, wrapping these in thin dough and then deep frying them, these offerings vary in quality from the greasy and soggy to the godlike. Following is a handful of places where the eggrolls are bound to please.

Zuzobra, Shenkar 7, Herzliya Pituach: Probably the best eggrolls in the country today. Crisp, greaseless, packed with flavor and served with a delicious sweet and hot sauce. Also great fun to eat are the noodles with shrimp, calamari and vegetables, chicken in curry sauce and soba noodles.

Choma HaSinit, Mikve Israel 26, Tel Aviv: Vegetable filled eggrolls here are special treats, and the lightly hot sauce that is served is an ideal accompaniment. Go on after your eggrolls to any of the simple but delicious noodle dishes.

Yin Yang, Rothschild 64: The sauces served are good but the eggrolls served here are so crisp and full of fresh flavor that they are best eaten plain. Go on to cold chicken salad on rice noodles, fried calamari with garlic and hot pepper or spareibs in a hot and sweet sauce.

Rungsit, Jabotinsky 2, Jerusalem: Just what Chinese style eggrolls are doing in a Thai restaurant is something of a mystery, but the eggrolls are delicious and one can ignore this contradiction. Other good bets are the somewhat Westernized but good mi krob (fried rice noodles), phad Khang (lamb with ginger and black mushrooms) and satai gai (marinated grilled chicken breast). Kosher.

Wong's, in the Royal Beach Hotel, Eilat: Crisp, with lots of flavorful chicken, vegetables and just a hint of ginger, these are good eggrolls. Afterwards go on to beef ribs with satay-barbecue sauce, the fried rice with duck slices, or the chicken salad with fried rice noodles.

© Daniel Rogov