A studied glance at the Indian subcontinent might give one the impression that Indians might have a difficult time in finding anything at all to eat. Hindus do not eat beef, Moslems do not eat pork. Some Indians in respect for the "reverence-for-life" principle not only abstain from all meat and fish but also eschew eggs because they represent potential lives.

Kashmiri Hindus cook with asafetida and frown on the use of garlic. Moslems from the same area rely heavily on garlic in their cookery and avoid asafedita. Even some of the vegetarians in the nation have a problem. The Jains from the area of Gujerat will not eat beetroots or tomatoes because their color reminds them of blood. Some are so orthodox that they will not eat root vegetables because in pulling them out of the earth some innocent insect might die in the process.

Despite all of these restrictions, the Indians have evolved an excellent culinary repertoire with interesting religious and regional variations. With the exception of making adaptations for the maintenance of kashrut, Indian Jews did not have to wander far from the culinary patterns of the areas in which they found themselves.

If there is a common denominator to all of the foods of India it is the heavy and imaginative utilization of spices. One need not fear, however, for while true Indian food is always spicy, it is not always "hot". The chili pepper, the most common ingredient used to make Indian cuisine hot, is popular but not indispensable. With no loss in true Indian flavor, those who do not like their food overly hot may cut back on or even omit the use of chili peppers in preparing the following recipes. The dinner will serve 4 - 6.

The Appetizer

Stuffed Cauliflower
Phool Gubi ki Bhasi

1 medium cauliflower, whole with leaves removed
1/2 cup green peas, cooked
1 Tbsp. dessicated coconut
1 Tbsp. coriander leaves, chopped
1 - 2 green chili peppers, chopped finely
1 tsp. cumin powder
1/2 tsp. each salt and hot paprika
juice of 1 lemon
lettuce leaves for garnish

In a small mixing bowl combine the coconut, green peas, salt, lemon juice, cumin, chili powder and chili pepper and blend together thoroughly.

In a saucepan cover the cauliflower with cold water. Bring to a boil and then reduce the flame to attain a very gentle boil and cook just until the cauliflower is tender (about 15 minutes). Remove the cauliflower gently so that it does not crumble and place head downward on a plate. With the blended ingredients, fill the crevices of the cauliflower, again taking care not to let the cauliflower disintegrate. Transfer to a platter with a bed of lettuce leaves, sprinkle over with the coriander and let come to room temperature before serving.

The Main Course and Side Dishes

Fish in Yoghurt Sauce
Timatar Wali Macchi

1 kilo cod fillets, halved
1 cup natural yoghurt, unsweetened
1/4 cup vegetable oil
2 small onions, chopped coarsely
6 cloves garlic, chopped coarsely
3 green chili peppers, chopped coarsely
1 Tbsp. coriander powder
2 tsp. ginger, chopped
1 tsp. each salt and cumin
1 tsp. garam masala mixture (available in health-food shops) (optional)
1/4 tsp. turmeric
plain boiled rice or kitcheree (recipe follows) for serving

In a heavy skillet heat the oil and in this saute the onions until translucent. Add the ginger, garlic, salt and spices. Stir well and add the yoghurt and chili peppers. Bring to a boil, reduce the flame and add the fish fillets. Simmer over a low flame until the fish are done (10 - 15 minutes). To serve, heap the fillets in the center of a preheated serving platter. If serving plain boiled rice, surround with the rice and spoon some of the sauce over both fish and rice. If serving with kitcheree, serve the fish on a separate platter. Serve the remaining sauce in a gravy boat.

Rice and Beans
Kitcherie

1 cup lentils, soaked 4 hours and drained
1 cup long grain rice
1/2 cup clarified butter, melted
1 large onion, sliced thinly
3 hard boiled eggs, quartered
1 clove garlic, chopped coarsely
2 tsp. curry powder
1 tsp. salt
pepper to taste

In a heavy skillet heat half the butter and in this saute the onion and garlic until the onions are golden brown. Stir in the curry powder, salt and pepper to taste and saute for 3 minutes longer. Add the lentils and rice and stir until well blended. Add 2 cups of boiling water, reduce the flame, cover and simmer slowly until the rice and beans are tender (20 - 30 minutes), adding more boiling water only if necessary.

When the rice and beans are tender uncover and continue to heat over a low flame until the liquids evaporate and the mixture is dry. Garnish with the hard boiled eggs and pour over the remaining butter. Serve hot.

Onion and Tomato Salad
Cachumber

225 gr. onions, sliced thinly
4 medium tomatoes, sliced or in wedges
2 green chili peppers, chopped finely
1/2 tsp. each salt and black pepper
juice of 1 large lemon

Put the onion slices in a wooden serving bowl. Sprinkle over the salt, pepper and chili peppers and drip over the lemon juice. Stir well and let stand in the refrigerator for 2 - 3 hours before serving. About 15 minutes before serving add the tomatoes and stir gently. Serve chilled.

The Desserts

Carrot Halvah
Halvah Gajjar

1 kilo carrots, grated
2 cups blanched ground almonds
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup butter
1/2 tsp. nutmeg
pinch or two saffron

Cook the carrots in 2 cups of water for about 20 minutes and then drain well.

In a heavy skillet combine the sugar and 1/4 cup of water and cook, stirring regularly, until a thread is formed when a fork is lifted from the pan. Stir in the carrots and saffron and cook, stirring frequently over a low flame until all of the syrup is absorbed (about 10 minutes). Remove from the flame and blend in the remaining ingredients. Serve hot. (Note: An ideal accompaniment to carrot halvah is considered to be hot mint tea).

Pistachio-Sugar Cookies
Barfi

2 cups powdered milk, sifted
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 cup pistachio nuts, chopped
2 Tbsp. rose water
2 tsp. powdered cardamom

In a saucepan combine the sugar with 2 1/2 cups of water and boil, stirring regularly until a thread is formed when a fork is lifted from the pan. Add the rose water and powdered milk and stir until thickened. Reduce to a low flame and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is quite thick (about 3 minutes). Stir in the cardamom and pistachio nuts and transfer to a well buttered 9 x 9" (23 x 23 cm) cake pan. Let cool, cut into diamond shapes and serve as cookies. (Yields about 24 cookies).

© Daniel Rogov