Not everyone who has ever visited Israel has concurred that there should be differences between the dining habits of summer and winter. In the first century, for example, when the Roman Legions occupied the land it was considered perfectly normal for Roman officers and noblemen to start their summertime meals with a hot fish or vegetable soup, to continue with large cuts of roasted meats that were invariably served with thick gravy and lots of baked pumpkins and turnips and then to finish off with huge portions of sweetened rice pudding. Considering that the temperature in the Judean dessert, where most of the Legionnaires were stationed, was unbearably hot, it should surprise no-one to learn that many Roman soldiers suffered from serious bouts if indigestion.

Many years later, as if to demonstrate that occupying armies are not always as wise as they might be, the British forces in Mandatory Palestine showed a similar lack of understanding. On August 12, 1947, even though the temperature had gone over 44 degrees Celsius (112 Fahrenheit), the British officers who came to lunch at Jerusalem's King David Hotel dined on oxtail soup, roast beef, Irish stew, chicken curry and treacle pudding. That evening, in a somewhat humorous mood, Captain David Smythe-Brown wrote to his wife in London that "we ate so much and so badly that not a single member of the general staff would have been capable of going to war that day".

Unlike conquering armies, which never seem to quite adjust to the culinary realities of the Holy Land, those who have inhabited the land since Biblical times have always realized that while such meals may provide marvelous anecdotes, they are ill-suited to comfortable summer-time dining. The Jews, Moslems and Christians who have been the permanent residents of the area know full well that heavy food should be kept for the winter. As in any nation where summertime temperatures can be scorchingly hot, locals know that dishes served in the summer should bring to the kitchen and the dining room the flavors of the garden, the fields and the sea. In a phrase, summer dining should be refreshing, light and easy to digest.

Today, as in the past in Israel, whether in homes or restaurants, many of the most beloved dishes for summertime dining are cold soups. Some of the most popular have originated in the area and others have been brought over the centuries by settlers who have come from countries in Africa, Asia, Europe and the Americas.

Cream of Cherry Soup

1/2 kilo each sweet and sour cherries, stemmed and pitted
1 stick cinnamon
1/2 cup sugar or more to taste
1/4 cup flour
1 cup each sweet cream and dry red wine

In a saucepan with 4 cups of water cook the cherries together with the cinnamon for 10 minutes. Remove the cinnamon and add sugar to taste.

In a small mixing bowl combine the flour with « cup of water and with a wire whisk beat until the mixture is completely smooth. Pour this mixture into the hot cherry soup, stirring constantly. Bring to the boil, reduce the flame and let simmer 3 - 4 minutes longer, stirring regularly. Remove from the flame, let cool and then refrigerate overnight. Just before serving beat in the cream and wine with a wire whisk. (Serves 6 - 8).

Chilled Leek Soup

2 Tbsp. butter
the white parts of 2 medium leeks, chopped finely
1 small carrot, chopped finely
1 Tbsp. tarragon
350 gr. potatoes, peeled
1 egg yolk
1 1/2 cups chicken stock or vegetable stock
3/4 cup milk
1/2 cup sweet cream
salt and pepper to taste

In a heavy skillet heat the butter and in this fry the leeks, carrot and tarragon until soft (5 - 8 minutes).

In a separate saucepan boil the potatoes until soft and then puree through a strainer. Beat in the egg yolk. Stir in the milk and cream and then the vegetables. Season with salt and pepper and chill well. Chill well before serving. (Serves 4).

Yoghurt Soup with Mint

2 1/2 cups yoghurt
1 1/2 cups sweet cream
2 cups vegetable stock, cold
1/2 tsp. cumin seeds, roasted and ground
1/2 tsp. salt or more to taste
pepper to taste
2 tsp. lemon juice
1 Tbsp. mint, chopped extremely finely

In a bowl beat the yoghurt lightly with a whisk until it is smooth and creamy. Add the sweet cream and whisk lightly. Add the remaining ingredients, stir well and correct the seasoning with salt and additional pepper to taste if desired. Serve well chilled. (Serves 4 - 6).

Chilled Red Pepper Soup

the white parts of 4 leeks, chopped
4 sweet red peppers, seeded and chopped
1/4 cup butter
4 cups chicken stock, well degreased
1/4 tsp. thyme
1/2 small bay leaf, rumbled
1 cup sour cream
salt and white pepper to taste
1 red pepper, cut in julienne strips, for garnish

In a large heavy saucepan heat the butter and in this saute the leeks and peppers for 15 minutes, until the vegetables are soft. Add 1 cup of the stock and the thyme and bay leaf and bring the mixture to a boil. Immediately lower the flame and let simmer, covered, for 1/2 hour. (Serves 4 - 6).

In a blender or food processor puree the cooked mixture. Pour into a large serving bowl, add th remaining stock and the sour cream. Mix well, season to taste with salt and pepper and chill the soup, covered, for 3 - 4 hours before serving. Just before serving garnish with the julienned pepper strips.

1 kilo beets, peeled
2 medium onions
2 carrots
1/2 kilo chicken wings and necks
2 stalks celery
1 Tbsp. salt
juice of l lemon
1/2 tsp. pepper
boiled potatoes or hard boiled eggs for garnish

Place the beets, onions and carrots in a large saucepan. Over these lay the chicken pieces and remaining ingredients except the potatoes or hard boiled eggs. Cover with 8 cups of water and, over a moderately high flame, bring to a boil. Let boil for 10 minutes, skimming as necessary and then reduce the flame, cover and let simmer for 2 hours. Check periodically and add water if necessary.

Remove from the flame, correct the seasoning with salt and pepper and strain the soup. May be served hot or cold and garnished with boiled potatoes or hard-boiled eggs. (Serves 4 - 6).

Tarator - Cold Yoghurt Soup

1/2 kilo small cucumbers, peeled and cut in small cubes
salt as required
1 tsp. olive oil
pinch of chopped dill
6 cloves garlic, crushed
3 cups yoghurt
50 gr. unsalted almonds, chopped finely
mint sprigs for garnish

Season the cucumbers with salt, sprinkle over with half the olive oil and add the dill and garlic. Mix well, add the yoghurt and continue to stir. If the mixture is overly thick, add a very small quantity of water. Refrigerate for 10 - 12 hours before serving. Immediately before serving sprinkle over the chopped nuts and a few drops of olive oil. Garnish with the mint sprigs. (Serves 6).

Cream of Sorrel Soup

200 gr. fresh sorrel, with stems removed
2 Tbsp. butter
2 liters vegetable stock
4 egg yolks
3/4 cup sweet cream
6 Tbsp. port wine
1/4 cup chervil, chives or green parts of spring onions, chopped, for garnish

Wash and dry the sorrel and then cut the leaves in thin slices. In a large saucepan melt the butter and in this saute the sorrel over a low flame until it is reduced by half and loses most of its colour. Add the stock and let simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

In a large bowl mix together the cream and egg yolks. Remove the soup from the flame and pour it into the egg-and-cream mixture, whisking vigorously. Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook gently over a medium flame, stirring constantly, until the soup coats the back of a spoon (about 5 minutes). Let the soup cool and then refrigerate until well chilled.

Just before serving, add the port wine and then sprinkle over with the chopped chervil. (Serves 8 - 10).

Cream of Cauliflower Soup

1 cauliflower, about 750 grams, trimmed
1 small potato, peeled
4 cups vegetable stock
1 bouquet garni made by tying together 2 sprigs parsley and 2 sprigs tarragon
3/4 cup sweet cream
salt and pepper to taste
nutmeg to taste
pinch of curry powder
lemon juice
chives or green parts of spring onions, chopped, for garnish

In a large saucepan heat 2 1/2 cups of the stock. Add the cauliflower and bouquet garni and cook over a low flame, covered, until the cauliflower is very tender. Puree the vegetables and stock in a blender or food processor and return to the saucepan.

Add the cream and enough of the remaining stock to bring the soup to the desired consistency. Season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Let the soup cool and refrigerate, covered, until well chilled. Just before serving sprinkle with the chives. (Serves 8).

Chilled Cucumber and Watercress Soup

3 Tbsp. butter
1 small onion, chopped
2 potatoes, peeled and diced
2 medium cucumbers, peeled and cut in 1" (2 1/2 cm) pieces
salt and pepper to taste
2 1/2 cups vegetable stock
1 1/4 cups milk
1/4 cup sweet cream
1 bunch watercress, with stems discarded
parsley, chopped, for garnish
bread croutons, for garnish

In a large saucepan melt 2 Tbsp. of the butter and in this saute the onions until translucent. Add the potato, cucumber, salt and pepper and mix well. Pour over the stock and cook until the vegetables are tender (about 30 minutes). In a blender or food processor, puree the liquids and vegetables together.

Pour the soup into a clean saucepan and add the milk. Bring just to the boil, stirring constantly and then remove from the flame. Add the cream, stir well, and let the soup cool.

In a saucepan heat the remaining butter and in this saute the watercress until the leaves are tender. Chop the leaves finely and stir into the soup. Refrigerate, covered, until well chilled. Just before serving sprinkle over the parsley and serve the bread croutons separately. (Serves 6).

Melon Soup

2 small canteloupe or Charantais melons, chilled
100 gr. fine breadcrumbs made from fresh white bread
100 gr. ground almonds
4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
3 Tbsp. olive oil
1 1/2 cups dry white wine, well chilled
24 ice cubes

Halve and seed the melons. Remove the peel and cut the flesh into 1/2" (1 cm) cubes.

In a serving bowl whisk together the breadcrumbs, ground almonds, garlic, olive oil and wine. Stir in the melon and ice cubes. When the ice starts to melt, ladle the soup into small glass bowls. (Serves 4 - 6).

© Daniel Rogov