Daniel Rogov's
Dining in the Small Places

Among the pleasures of dining out in small, often neighborhood restaurants is that after a very short time clients are perceived as "regulars", receiving a warm greeting from the owner, the cook and the waiters and, should one wish, to exchange pleasantries or even a few words of gossip with others that are regular habitues of the place. Not one of the places that follow serves great food, but each serves up dishes that are remarkably pleasant and at prices that are reasonable enough to add to the joys of life.

Copia Bar 96 Yehuda Halevi, Tel Aviv. Tel: 03 5614428. Daily 09:00 - 02:00. An easy going neighborhood bar-restaurant with a warm and pleasant atmosphere. Among best bets are the onion quiche, deep fried sirloin rolled around cheese and good hot chocolate souffle for dessert.

Piccola Pasta 12 Mendele. (03) 620-3257. Mon - Sat 18:00 - 24:30. A tiny, hyper simple Italian trattoria offering very good pasta dishes, and a commendable selection of wines at surprisingly reasonal prices.

Stanleys, 3 Horkenos, Jerusalem. Tel: 02 6259459. Daily 12:00 - 24:00. Fun South African dining in a simple, friendly and appealing setting. Chicken wings in bitter orange sauce, country style goose liver terrine, boere wors sausages, good steaks, spare ribs and hamburgers.

Molly Bloom's 32 Mendele, Tel Aviv. Tel: 03 5221558. Daily 16:00 - 02:00. A hyper-real imitation of an Irish Pub that turns out fun (if not great) food. Shepherd's pie, fish 'n chips, roast beef are all good matches to the Guinness and Kilkenny Harp draught beers.

Isabella 6 Ben Gurion, Haifa. Tel: 04 8552201. Daily 09:30 - 00:00. A laid-back restaurant offering designer pizzas and focaccio based dishes. Also good antipasti, beef fillet with mushrooms, and pasta dishes (the sauces are often excellent).

Binyamina Rehov Ha'Arba'aa 10, Tel Aviv. Tel: 03 6241681. Daily 11:00 - 24:00. Country-style dining in the heart of the city. Mushrooms stuffed with smoked goose breast or goat's cheese and then the smoked meat and fish offerings (the goose legs and thighs excellent). Good home-made ice cream.

Bones 87 Yehuda HaLevi St, Tel Aviv. Tel: 03 560-7343. Daily 12:00 - 02:00. An appealing bar-restaurant with fun to eat chicken liver pate as an opening course. Focus on the really good ribs as a main course. Good wine list.

© Daniel Rogov

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