The fact that most Israelis and very few who do not live in the Middle-East do not have a deep understanding of the Druze population living in the country is no-one's fault. The simple truth of the matter is that since ever since the 11th century, when Ismail al-Darazi and his followers broke away from the mainstream of Moslim thought, the Druze have closely guarded the tenets of their religion. What is known is that their creed is basically Moslem and they believe in one God and seven prophets - Adam, Noah, Abraham, Moses, Jesus, Mohammed and Mohammed Ibn Ismaeil. The Druze accept no converts, marry only among their own faith, and have stayed for centuries on the land tilled by their forefathers. All in all, it is estimated that there are about 300,000 Druze and even though the majority of them live in Syria and Lebanon, nearly 70,000 have made their homes in Israel and many have earned distinction by serving in the Israeli Defense Forces.

Because the Druze revere Jethro, the father in law of Moses, they make an an annual pilgrimage in April to his tomb at Nebe Shu'eib. Located on the extinct volcano known as the "Horns of Hittin", which is located northwest of Tiberias, not far from Moshav Arbel, the tomb is set in a mosque-like domed hall, the interior of which is muffled with hundreds of fine Persian carpets. Visitors are welcome, but before entering, as in all holy sites, it is necessary to first remove the shoes and cover the head with a hat, shawl or handkerchief.

What is also known is that of all the ethnic and religious groups within Israel, there is a good chance that none dine better and more festively than the Druze. Even a casual visit to any of the eighteen Druze villages in the Carmel Hills and the Galilee is enough to make even a casual visitor aware that in addition to being concerned with the quality of what they eat, the Druze also have a highly developed social code that centers about food and dining.

Dining, whether within one's own family or with guests is an in- tensely social activity among the Druze, and people entertain warmly and joyously. To persuade a friend to stay for lunch or dinner, for example, is considered both a triumph and an honor. Once friends have accepted an invitation, the main duty of the host is to please his guests. The amount of food offered, for example, is a compliment to the guest and an indication of his importance. No matter how luxurious the meal, however, hosts will always apologize for the meagerness of his offerings. Because Druze hosts are expected to please their guests, they will never argue about politics or religion and will never ask guests whether they would like food or drink but to provide these automatically, insisting that they have them and ignoring whatever refusals they may offer.

The ability to cook well is highly valued, and because cooks need and expect approval, guests are constantly coaxed and encouraged to surpass themselves. In most Druze homes, cooking is done by groups, and it is not unusual to find mothers, daughters, sisters, cousins and friends all working in the same kitchen to prepare a festive meal.

Guests must also play their roles correctly and are expected at first to refuse the foods offered to them, but eventually to give in on being pressed. Once eating, guests are expected to praise the quality of every dish served. Guests should never refuse dishes that have already been sampled by others of the company, should never linger too long, and when they leave must bless their host and are under an obligation to speak well of him to others.

Tradition is important in other ways as well. In Dalyat el Karmel, located on the Elyaqium-Haifa road in the Carmel Mountains for example, the older men continue to wear the traditional garb of long black robes and formal white turbans as they make their way down the main shopping street or through the colorful bazaar in the heart of the village. The market, or shuk, is especially enchanting, and many find that in addition to the marvellous pastries (all of which can be eaten while continuing one's stroll), the collection of herbs and spices is one of the best in the entire Mediterranean Basin. So large is the selection and so high is the quality of what is sold in the spice shops that many of the best Israeli chefs come from as far away as Tel Aviv and Beersheba to shop here.

Whether in Dalyat el Karmel, which was founded 250 years ago by Druze from Syria on the remains of an ancient settlement, or in nearby Isifiya (8 kilometers southeast of Haifa), which was founded in 1600 by a Druze family from Lebanon, the foods offered in the dozens of street-side stands and restaurants are invariably simple but excellent.

Over the centuries, the Druze have made special adaptations to the foods of Syria, Lebanon and Israel and these add to the charms of the dishes they serve. Pomegranate seeds are often served with salads and the juice of the pomegranate is used in preparing many sauces; orange blossom water is added not only to stews but to Turkish coffee; and sumac, a sourish, dark brown-red seed is ground to a powder and used to flavor kebabs or to sprinkle on fish or salads.

Made by spreading batter on a specially designed round cooking surface, even the pita bread prepared in the Druze villages are special. Unlike most of the small, plump pita breads served throughout the Middle-East, Druze pitas are paper thin and can be as much as fifty centimeters in diameter and whether eaten plain, spread with clarified butter and dried herbs, or used in making a sandwich, these are special indeed. Also very special are "kahk", bracelet shaped breads that are seasoned with cumin, coriander, sesame seeds and sugar. Following are descriptions of several of the very special dishes I sampled on a series of recent visits to the Druze Villages of the Galilee and the Carmel. All are definitely worth trying.

First and Main Courses

Sambusak: Halmoon shaped pastries filled with meat, cheese or tchina and either deep fried in oil or fried in clarified butter, these delicious treats are meant to be eaten either with the fingers or a fork and knife.

Koftit Ferakh: Fried minced chicken balls seasoned with turmeric.

Chicken with Melokhia Sauce: After being cooked in a stock made with the dark green leaves of the melokhia plant, chicken is boned and cut in small pieces. The dish is served by placing toasted bread croutons on the plate and on this placing some boiled rice. The chicken pieces are then placed on the rice, and over them is sprinkled onion that has been marinated in lemon juice. Over all is spread some of the melokhia stock.

Kibbeh (also known as kubbeh): There are hundreds of versions of this dish but one of the most popular versions in Druze villages is made by pouding a mixture of cracked wheat or burghul, grated onion and minced lamb into a paste. Eaten raw this dish is known as "kibbeh nayeh", but the dish can also be fried or grilled. In the dish known as "kibbeh bil sanieh", a layer of minced meat filling is inserted into two layers of kibbeh and baked in the oven. Stuffed kibbeh are hollow oval or torpedo shaped shells filled with minced meat or mushrooms.

Among other main course dishes well worth trying are quails or pigeons that have been seasoned with ginger and cumin and stuffed with grapes; sardines wrapped in grape leaves; and kebabs made of minced lamb that has been blended together with onion, eggs and pine nuts. Even the felafel one finds in Druze villages has a special charm. Flavored with cumin, coriander, cayenne pepper, onion and garlic, many, including this writer, feel that these are the best felafel now found in the entire Mediterranean basin.

Ma'amoul: Miniature dessert tarts of different shapes that may contain any combination of walnuts, pistachios, almonds or dates. Meant to be eaten with the fingers.

Baklava: Although this pastry, based on filo dough, may be found in one form or another throughout the Mediterranean, the Druze versions are especially light, crisp and delicate.

Konafa (also called Kada'if): These pastries are made by mixing flour and water into a liquid batter than then straining the batter through a fine sieve onto a hot metal sheet over a small fire. As soon as the dough sets in strands that look like vermicelli or shredded wheat, it is swept off the sheet quickly, so that they remain soft. The strands are then spread evenly in a flat pan and then covered with cream, walnuts, pistachio nuts, or soft cheeses before being baked lightly in the oven.

Cheese or Meat Filled Pastries
Sambusak

For the Dough:
1/2 cup oil
125 gr. butter
1 tsp. salt
1/2 kilo flour, sifted
cheese or meat filling (see below)
clarified butter for shallow frying or oil for deep frying

Make the dough by combining the oil and butter in a large mixing bowl. Add 1/2 cup of water and the salt, and then add the flour gradually, stirring slowly with a knife and then with your hand until the dough forms a soft, greasy ball. (Add a few Tbsp. of flour if necessary). Take care not to over-mix the dough.

Roll the dough on thinly on a floured board and cut into rounds about 8 cm. in diameter with a pastry cutter. Place a heaped teaspoonful of filling in the center of one half of each circle and then fold the other half over to make a half-moon shape. Seal by pinching the edges tightly.

To deep fry heat the oil to about 175 degrees Celsius and bake the sambusak, a few at a time until they are golden brown. To shallow fry, heat the clarified butter in a large heavy skillet and fry the sambusak until they are golden brown, turning once.

For a Cheese Filling:
1/4 kilo Feta or other salty goats' cheese
1/4 kilo cottage cheese
3 - 4 Tbsp. fresh parsley, dill or chives, chopped finely
white pepper to taste

Crumble the two cheeses together with a fork. Mix in the herbs and season to taste with white pepper. Work the ingredients into a paste.

For a Meat Filling:
1 large onion, chopped finely
2 Tbsp. oil or butter
1/2 kilo lean lamb or beef, minced
2 Tbsp. pine nuts
salt and black pepper
1 tsp. ground cinnamon

In a heavy skillet melt the oil or butter and in this saute the onions until soft and golden. Add the meat and continue to saute until it becomes lightly browned. Stir in the pine nuts and fry for 2 minutes longer. Season to taste with salt, pepper and cinnamon. Add about 4 Tbsp. of water and cook for a few minutes longer until the meat is tender and the water absorbed. Serve hot or warm.

Fried Chicken Balls
Koftit Ferakh

2 chicken breasts, cooked, skinned and boned
2 large slices white bread, with crusts removed
milk as required
1 large egg
pinch of turmeric (optional)
salt and pepper
flour
oil for deep frying
juice of 1/2 lemon (optional)

In a food processor mince the chicken meat (or chop it extremely finely if a food processor is not available). Soak the bread slices in a little milk and then squeeze them dry. In a bowl combine the chicken, bread, egg and seasonings. Knead well and shape into balls about 1 cm. in diameter. Roll these in flour and fry in deep hot oil until cooked and dark golden in color. Serve hot or cold, with a few drops of lemon juice squeezed over.

Sardines in Vine Leaves

12 large or 24 small vine leaves
12 fresh sardines
1 bunch of parsley, chopped finely
1 bunch of coriander, chopped finely
3 cloves garlic, crushed
salt and pepper
3 Tbsp. olive oil
1 lemon

If using fresh vine leaves, plunge them into boiling water just until they change color and become soft (about 15 seconds). If using leaves in brine, soak them in fresh water for an hour, changing the water twice to remove the salt.

In a small bowl mix together the parsley, coriander, garlic, salt and pepper, and olive oil. Scale and remove the heads of the sardines and then wash them well. (There is no need to remove the bones or innards of small sardines). Slit each fish open and fill with a mixture of the herbs. Roll each fish up in one or two vine leaves and place under a hot grill or over hot charcoals (about 8 cm. from the coals). Cook for 5 minutes on both sides. Serve hot or cold, with a bit of lemon juice squeezed over.

© Daniel Rogov