It is said that within the mountain ranges of Ethiopia one may come across fire breathing dragons. The dragons in question are relatively small lizards, and if they do breathe fire it is probably due to berbere, the most characteristic ingredient in Ethiopian cookery.

This palate searing reddish paste, found in most Ethiopian kitchens and used in preparing many local specialties, consists of hot red chili peppers, garlic, ginger, fenugreek, cardamom, cloves, allspice, nutmeg, white pepper, salt and turmeric. Various sources claim that in addition to adding magnificent flavor to a many traditional dishes, this especially potent mixture will also add to one's longevity, increase sexual potency and cure rheumatism.

Of all the cuisines of East Africa, the most highly developed and the one least exotic to the Western palate is that of Ethiopia. After nearly two thousand years of development, this is a style of cookery that has combined the best principles of the Arabic kitchen with the use of classic African ingredients, such as peanuts, bananas, rice, coconuts, spinach, corn and beans.

Ethiopian Jews, while adhering strictly to the laws of kashrut, also made a major contribution to this national cuisine. Some five hundred years ago it fell to the Jewish mercantile families of Addis Ababa to introduce the use of curry powder and other aspects of Indian cookery. This level of what might be thought of as simple sophistication produced a culinary style that is not difficult to admire.

The impact of the Ethiopian kitchen has started to make itself felt within Israel and not only in the homes of Ethipian immigrants. In Tel Aviv, Haifa and Beersheba, for example, immigrants have opened restaurants, generally in the area of the central bus station. Featuring traditional food in settings that are comfortable but simple, it is possible to dine at these places in godly fashion for prices that are remarkably reasonable.

The following traditional recipes, which will sit comfortably on any Western table (but with no guarantees for longevity or potency) represent a festive meal that might be found in an upper-middle class Jewish home in Addis Ababa, Asmara as well as throughout Israel. Each of the recipes is designed to serve 6.

Spiced Chicken Wings

2 1/2 kilos chicken wings, cleaned well and with tips trimmed
6 medium onions, chopped
1 1/2 cups soy sauce
1 cup sugar
1 tsp. each cinnamon, ground cloves, white pepper
3 - 4 thin slices of fresh ginger, chopped or 1 tsp ground ginger

Put the chicken wings in a large pot with lightly salted water. When the water boils add the onions and let boil for 15 minutes.

In a separate saucepan heat the soy sauce and seasonings, but do not allow to boil.

Drain the chicken wings and transfer to the saucepan with the soy sauce mixture. Cook, over a low flame for 15 minutes.

Remove the chicken from the soy mixture and let the sauce drain. Place the wings in a baking dish and bake in a medium oven until the wings are browned and crisp (about 1/2 hour). Serve hot.

Lamb Soup

1 1/2 lb. (675 gr.) stewing lamb, cut into 2" (5 cm.) cubes
2 zucchini squash
2 medium tomatoes
3 Tbsp. olive oil
6 spring onions, chopped coarsely
2 - 3 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 tsp. each black pepper, salt and turmeric
1/4 tsp. caraway seed
pinch saffron

Place all the ingredients in a heavy kettle and stir together gently. Pour over 6 cups of boiling water or stock and cook, covered, over a low flame until the meat is tender (about 2 hours). Skim occasionally during the cooking process. After the meat is tender remove and discard the tomatoes. Serve hot, dividing the meat and vegetables equally.

Minted Rice

6 Tbsp. butter
1 large onion, chopped
3 coves garlic, chopped finely
l tsp. each ground cloves, cardamon and cinnamon
1 1/2 cups rice, uncooked
1 cup seedless raisins
1/2 cup fresh mint leaves, chopped finely
1/2 cup fresh coriander leaves
1/4 tsp. ground ginger pinch of saffron
3 Tbsp. lemon juice
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 cup toasted pine nuts, toasted or plain

In a large saucepan heat the butter and in this saute the onion and garlic until the onion is golden brown. Stir in the cloves, cardamom, ginger, cinnamon and rice. Continue to saute for several minutes. Add the raisins, mint, coriander, ginger and saffron, stirring well. Add 3 1/2 cups of water, the lemon juice and salt and bring to a boil. Stir with a fork just once and lower the flame. Cover and cook about 20 minutes over a low flame until the liquids are absorbed. Remove from the heat and let stand 15 minutes. Fluff with a fork, garnish with the nuts and serve hot.

Green Beans and Peanuts

3 Tbsp. olive oil or more if the skillet dries out
1 large onion, chopped
3/4 cup unsalted, skinned peanuts
3 - 4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 1.2 lb. (675 gr.) green beans
1 large green pepper, chopped
salt and pepper to taste

In a skillet heat the oil and in this saute the onions, nuts and garlic until the onions are translucent. To this mixture add the beans, green pepper, salt and black pepper. Continue to saute until the beans are tender. Serve hot.

Prunes With Almonds and Raisins

1 lb. (450 gr.) soft prunes, pitted
2 cups dry red wine
1/2 cup sugar
2 oz. (50 gr.) each peeled chopped almonds and seedless raisins
1 1/2 tsp. cinnamon
3 whole cloves

In a saucepan mix the prunes, almonds, raisins, cloves, wine, cinnamon and sugar. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring regularly. Reduce the flame and continue cooking and stirring until the mixture thickens. Remove the cloves and transfer the other ingredients to a medium sized dessert dish. Place the dish in the center of the table and serve hot with small dessert spoons so that each guest may help him or herself. Ideally served with mint tea or strong Turkish coffee.

© Daniel Rogov