No place in the world is more often associated with the birth of Christianity than Nazareth, the city in which Mary and Joseph lived and where Jesus spent much of his youth. Nor are there many places where Easter is celebrated with a greater sense of reverence.

Located in the hills of the Galilee, the city has been occupied at various times by the Romans, the Byzantines, the Moslems, the Crusaders and the Druze. Even the French, under Napoleon's leadership, held the city briefly in 1799. Despite the havoc that some of those occupiers have wreaked on the city, Nazareth remains today a vibrant and thriving city. Even though churches and holy sites are found everywhere, the city maintains an active daily life, the open-air market being one of the most colorful and bustling in the Middle East; the restaurants always well filled both by locals and visitors; and the street-side stands doing a thriving business in selling traditional Arabic and Middle-Eastern foods.

The celebration of Easter in Nazareth has both religious and familial meanings. Traditionally, shopping and the preliminary preparations for the festive Easter meal is done on Saturday morning, so that people can attend the late afternoon and midnight services that are held at nearly all of the 92 churches in the city. Sunday services at the Roman Catholic, Maronite, Greek Orthodox and Ethiopian Orthodox churches are intentionally brief, for families use the late morning hours to stroll on the hilly streets visiting in turn the home of Joseph, to the Roman Catholic Basilica or the Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation, and finally, the well where Mary is said to have drawn water for the family's daily use.

By two in the afternoon, the festive meal, to which family and close friends have been invited to share is ready. Traditionally the Easter meal opens with a variety of baked vegetables, some of which have been stuffed with rice, others with meat, and some with other vegetables. Because the symbol of the fish remains highly significant throughout Christendom, these are invariably followed by a fish course, and because no Easter meal is considered complete without a dish based on lamb, the main course is often of an aromatic lamb stew. Finally, because figs played an important role in the life of Jesus, dessert will most often be based on that fruit.

Stuffed Tomatoes

4 medium tomatoes, ripe but firm
1 cup cooked rice
125 gr. veal, cooked and diced
2 anchovy fillets, chopped
1/2 tsp. oregano
salt and pepper to taste
2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 tsp. lemon juice
1/2 cup mayonnaise
2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped

Remove the top quarter of the tomato and scoop out the seeds and pulp. Drain the excess liquid and chop the pulp. In a small mixing bowl combine the pulp with the rice, veal, anchovies, oregano and salt and pepper to taste. In a separate container mix together the oil and lemon juice and pour this over the rice and meat mixture. Allow to stand 1 hour and then add the mayonnaise and mix gently. With this mixture re-fill the tomato shells and serve cold. Just before serving sprinkle over the parsley. (Serves 4).

Stuffed Zucchini in Vine Leaves

12 vine leaves
12 small zucchini
300 gr. ground beef
2 slices white bread, soaked and squeezed dry
2 Tbsp. onion, chopped
1 Tbsp. each celery and parsley, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 egg
1 egg white
olive oil as required
2 cups chicken or beef stock
juice of 2 lemons
salt and pepper to taste

Put the vine leaves in a large amount of lightly salted water. Slowly bring to a boil and let boil gently for 2 - 3 minutes. Quickly plunge the leaves into cold water and then let the water drip off. Lay the leaves flat on a board, outer side down.

Rinse the zucchini well and trim the ends. With a small spoon carefully scoop out most of the flesh. Set aside the shells.

Combine the onion, celery, parsley, garlic, ground beef, bread, garlic, egg and egg white and mix together until the texture is smooth. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. With this mixture stuff the squash and then wrap each squash with a vine leaf, folding the edges of the leaf as you fold. If the leaves are not large enough to hold the squash firmly, tie them with kitchen string. Brush the exterior of each rolled squash with olive oil and place in a shallow pan.

Pour over enough stock to cover and bring to a boil. Reduce the flame and simmer for 1/2 hour. Add the lemon juice and continue to simmer over very low flame for1 1/2 hours longer. Add more stock or water during cooking only if the pan dries out. If serving hot, serve in the sauce. To serve cold, remove the wrapped squash from the stock and let cool before refrigerating. (Serves 6).

Stuffed Eggplant

4 medium eggplants
oil for frying
2 medium green peppers, chopped
3 medium tomatoes, chopped
2 medium onions, chopped
2 - 3 cloves garlic, chopped finely
1 cup red wine
3 oz. (85 gr.) tomato paste
1 Tbsp. sugar
1 tsp. each oregano, salt, pepper, sweet basil
8 thin slices Emmental or similar cheese
6 Tbsp. Parmesan cheese, grated


Cut off the ends of the eggplants and slice in half lengthwise. Place the eggplants in a saucepan with lightly salted water to cover. Cook, covered, for 25 minutes over a low flame. Drain.

In a skillet heat the oil and in this saute together the green pepper, tomatoes, onion and garlic for 5 minutes. Add the wine, tomato paste, 1/4 cup water, sugar and herbs and spices. Continue cooking until the vegetables are soft.

Scoop out the insides of the eggplant, leaving the shells intact. Cut up the scooped out flesh and add it to the sauce, mixing thoroughly.

Place the eggplant shells in a greased baking dish, laying one slice of the cheese in each shell. Over this pour the sauce and filling, dividing evenly between the shells. Cover each shell with another slice of cheese and sprinkle over with the Parmesan cheese. Bake in a medium oven for 30 minutes. Serve hot. (Serves 4 or 8).

Sea Bass with Garlic Butter

4 sea bass, about 350 gr. each (can use any other firm fleshed salt water fish)
oil for deep frying
1/2 cup butter
10 cloves garlic, chopped finely
1 lemon, sliced
salt and pepper to taste
lemon wedges, for serving

Clean the fish and dry well on paper toweling. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Place the fish in deep oil that has been preheated to 180 Celsius and fry until nearly done.

In a separate skillet melt the butter over a low flame. Add the garlic cloves and stir continuously until the butter begins to brown. Remove the fish from the oil and place in a baking dish. Pour the garlic butter over and on each fish place 2 lemon slices. Cover and put into a hot oven until the fish flakes is done to taste. Serve hot with lemon wedges. (Serves 4).

Minted Lamb Casserole

1/2 kilo lean boneless lamb, cut in 2 1/2 cm. cubes
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1/2 cup chopped onion
4 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
1 1/2 tsp. sweet paprika
1 1/2 tsp. tabil spice mixture (see following recipe)
1 tsp. black pepper
6 eggs, beaten lightly
1/2 cup breadcrumbs
1/4 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
1 1/2 Tbsp. dried mint leaves, pulverized
1/4 cup clarified butter, melted
salt and black pepper to taste

Trim the excess fat from the meat and season with salt and pepper to taste. In a flameproof casserole heat the oil and in this brown the lamb together with the onion. Add the tomatoes, paprika, tabil and black pepper, cover tightly and simmer gently for about 1 hour, adding water if necessary to keep the casserole from drying out.

Transfer the meat to an ovenproof casserole dish and cover. Set aside. Heat the cooking juices until they are reduced to about 1/4 cup. Cover and let cool.

Combine the eggs, cooking juices, breadcrumbs, cheese and mint and season to taste (sparingly) with salt and pepper. Pour this mixture over the lamb and cook on the middle shelf of a medium oven for 15 minutes. Raise the oven temperature to its maximum, remove the casserole, drip over the clarified butter and return the dish to the oven for 10 minutes longer. Cut into wedges and serve hot. (Serves 4 - 6).

Tabil Spice Mixture

North African in origin, but now used widely throughout the Middle East, this spice mixture is especially good for meat and poultry stews.

1 Tbsp. finely ground caraway seeds
1 Tbsp. finely chopped garlic
2 1/2 tsp. finely ground coriander seeds
2 tsp. crushed hot red pepper flakes

Combine and mix the ingredients well. Store in a tightly sealed container. Yields about 1/4 cup.

Fig Pudding

1 cup flour, sifted
1 tsp. baking powder
225 gr. dried figs, chopped finely
115 gr. suet, ground
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 cup milk
2 eggs
1/2 tsp. each powdered nutmeg and ginger
1/4 tsp. salt
whipped cream for serving (optional)

Mix together the flour and the baking powder and resift these into a clean dry bowl. Add the figs, suet, breadcrumbs and sugar and mix well. In a separate bowl beat together the milk, eggs, nutmeg, ginger and salt and then mix this together with the figs.

Pour the mixture into a mold with a tightly fitting cover, place in a pot with just enough water to come 2/3 of the way up the sides of the mold, cover and steam until the pudding is well set (about 3 hours), adding water to the pot only if necessary. Serve hot with whipped cream. (Serves 4 - 6).

© Daniel Rogov