In 1890, when the Catholic Church sent a group of Cisterian monks to build a monastery near Jerusalem, they selected a site at Latroun. Not long after they arrived, the monks, who live according to the rules of the Benedictine brothers, decided that one of the ways they could earn their keep was by making wine. The decision followed an age old tradition, for ever since the Middle-Ages, when the Catholic church owned many of the best vineyards of France, the relationship between the church and fine wine and liqueurs has been a very clear one.

In addition to its importance to the church as part of the sacraments of baptism, communion and marriage, wine was popular among the members of the priesthood. Saints drank it (Joan of Arc liked wine in her soup) and even had wines named after them (Saint-Emilion, Sainte-Estephe), and every monastery was expected to raise enough wine for their own use. Whatever was left over was sold. So important was the role of the church in winemaking that many historians credit the patience and sound agricultural methods of the monks with the fact that since the 15th century, France has produced more matchless vintages than any other nation in the world.

Set in an idyllic provincial setting and the monastery at Latroun thrived even though the wines of the monks did not attain the glorious heights they had hoped for. In fact, until about a decade ago, most of the wines produced at Latroun were not especially sophisticated. Several years ago, however, when the winemakers began planting varieties of grapes previously unknown in Israel, it became apparent that a change was coming. While it is true that their Gewurztraminer, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc are not the best that Israeli produces, they have risen dramatically in quality and are often worth trying.

This exquisitely beautiful monastery has other charms as well, for whether one makes their way through the carefully tended orchards, the extensive herb gardens, the chapels or the halls of the monastery, one cannot help but feel and be impressed by the tranquillity of the brothers, the physical setting and the atmosphere of deep dedication to this religious way of life.

At few times is the feeling of joy that accompanies the fraternal way of life more evident than during Easter. The recipes that follow are for the meal that was served on Easter Sunday one year ago. One cannot help but notice that the recipes each have their roots in French Provence or Tuscany, the two places from which the founding monks of the monastery came.

In the year 2,000, Easter Sunday for Protestants and Roman Catholics falls on 23 April. Because of differences between religious calendars, the Greek, Armenian and Russian Orthodox Churches will celebrate 1 week later.

Florentine Eggs

1 kilo spinach, cooked and chopped
3 Tbsp. sweet cream
salt and pepper to taste
8 eggs
3 Tbsp. Parmesan cheese, grated
4 tsp. anchovy paste

Mix together the chopped spinach, cream and salt and pepper to taste. Transfer this mixture to a lightly buttered shallow casserole dish and spread evenly. In the spinach make 8 depressions and into each break an egg, being careful not to break the yolks. Sprinkle over with the Parmesan cheese and on each egg place 1/2 tsp. of the anchovy paste. Bake in an oven that has been preheated to 180 degrees Celsius (350 Fahrenheit) until the eggs are set. Serve immediately. (Serves 4 or 8).

Split Pea Soup

2 cups split peas
carcass of 1 turkey
1 cup celery with leaves, chopped
1/2 cup each carrots and onions, both chopped
1 clove garlic
1 bay leaf dash or two of Tabasco
salt and pepper to taste
2 Tbsp. each butter and flour
toasted bread croutons for serving

Wash the spit peas thoroughly and let stand in 2- 3 cups of cold water for 1 hour. Drain the peas, reserving the liquids and add enough cold water to make 10 cups. In the liquid put the peas and turkey carcass. Cook, covered, on a low to medium flame for 3 hours.

Add the celery, carrots, onions, garlic, bay leaf, Tabasco, salt and pepper to taste and simmer, covered, for another 1/2 hour. Remove the carcass, skim off whatever foam is on the surface and strain the soup through a sieve. Chill and then remove the grease.

Reheat the soup. In a small skillet melt the butter and stir in the flour until blended. To this add a small amount of the soup. Cook and stir continuously until this mixture just boils and then stir into the rest of the now reheated soup. Correct the seasoning and serve with croutons. (Serves 6 - 8).

Parsleyed Leg of Lamb

1 leg of lamb, about 2 1/2 kilos
1 clove garlic, halved
2 Tbsp. olive or other vegetable oil
1 medium onion, quartered
1 large carrot, quartered
1 1/2 cups beef stock
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
4 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
1 - 2 cloves garlic, chopped finely
6 Tbsp. butter, melted
6 Tbsp. white wine
salt and pepper to taste

Trim the skin and all but a thin layer of the fat from the lamb. With the garlic halves rub the leg thoroughly

In a large roasting pan put the oil, onion and carrot. On these put the lamb and sprinkle well with salt and pepper. Roast, in an oven that has been preheated to 235 degrees Celsius (450 Fahrenheit) until browned (10 - 15 minutes). Reduce the oven temperature to 200 degrees Celsius (400 Fahrenheit) and continue to roast, basting frequently and adding a bit of stock if the pan dries out. Allow a total of 12 - 15 minutes per pound (25 - 35 minutes per kilo) for medium done meat.

Remove the lamb from the oven 10 minutes before the end of cooking and set the meat on a platter. Mix together the breadcrumbs, parsley and chopped garlic and spread evenly over the meat. Sprinkle with the melted butter and then return the meat to the pan. Cook for 10 minutes longer or until the coating is lightly browned.

Transfer the lamb to a serving platter and let stand at room temperature for 10 - 15 minutes before carving.

Make the gravy by draining off the excess fat from the pan and by discarding the carrot and onion. Add the wine and 1 cup of stock. Boil, stirring and scraping the pan well with a wooden spatula, to dissolve the pan juices and simmer for 5 - 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Strain and skim off excess fat. In a saucepan bring the gravy to a final boil and then correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Serve the gravy in a gravy boat. (Serves 4 - 6).

Pears in Red Wine

8 large pears
1 bottle dry red wine
1 cup + 8 tsp. sugar
2 lemons, sliced
4 whole cloves

Halve the pears lengthwise and remove the cores. Arrange the halves in a single layer in a baking dish.

In a saucepan mix the wine, 1 cup of the sugar, the cloves and 1/4 cup of water. Heat until the wine begins to simmer and pour over the pears. Sprinkle 1/4 tsp. sugar over each half. Arrange the lemon slices over the pears. Put in an oven that has been preheated to 180 degrees Celsius (350 Fahrenheit) for twenty minutes.

Remove from the oven. Turn the pears and sprinkle the remaining sugar onto the second sides. Return to the oven until the pears are done (10 - 15 minutes longer). Cover, let cool and transfer to the refrigerator. Serve cold. Excellent served with sweetened whipped cream. (Serves 4 or 8).

Stewed Apricots

1/2 kilo whole apricots, halved and pitted
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup ground cinnamon

Sprinkle the apricots over with sugar and cinnamon and then place in a low baking dish. Bake in an oven that has been preheated to 180 degrees Celsius (350 Fahrenheit), turning once or twice until the apricots are just tender (about 20 minutes). Serve hot or cold. (Serves 4 - 6).

© Daniel Rogov