Regardless of whether people have come to Israel from Morocco, Poland, Argentina or Syria, there is no food item considered more indispensable to the Israeli diet than the eggplant. Sometimes referred to as "poor man's meat" and sometimes as "poor man's caviar", eggplant is one of the most reliable, and versatile foods of the region. So well received are dishes based on eggplant, that they are served as part of breakfast on kibbutzim and in Bedouin tents and, in one form or another they are offered with both lunch and dinner at the simplest and the most prestigious restaurants in Tel Aviv and Jerusalem. Well known humorist Ephraim Kishon once wrote that "if they did not eat eggplant at least once a day, most Israelis would feel that things had gone terribly wrong in their world".

So popular are dishes based on these fruits that a series of stories about them has entered the collective knowledge of the people. Everyone knows the story of the Imam, or Moslem priest, who was so overcome with emotion when he first tasted fried eggplant that he fainted from an excess of joy; and nearly every child can tell you from which Turkish palace or Bedouin tent many of these dishes originated.

Despite its enormous popularity, however, the eggplant, which is known as aubergine to the English and French and as chatzil in both Hebrew and Arabic, is a severely misunderstood food item. By whatever name it is known, for example, it is not as most Israelis assume, a vegetable. Technically at any rate, the eggplant is an herb and, while its roots and leaves have value (as seasonings in Far Eastern cuisine and as herbal tea in parts of Africa), it is the round, firm fruit of the plant which Israelis and other Westerners consider ultimately edible.

In addition to its delicate flavor, the eggplant has always been admired because it is considered "user-friendly". In fact, there is probably no food so easily prepared and so difficult to rob of its flavor. Eggplants can be boiled, broiled, fried, grilled, roasted or baked. They can be eaten with or without their skin and can be served in nearly any state of warmth or coldness. It can be sliced, diced, chopped, pureed, chunked or crumbled. Best of all, especially for those who are not experts in the kitchen, it can be overcooked to extremes and still maintain a delicate flavor. In a sense, it is nearly impossible to destroy an eggplant which, when anywhere even nearly properly prepared can serve as and in a multiple of salads or condiments, as main courses or as side dishes to accompany a meal.

Those unfamiliar with this delightful food should know that eggplants can be small and round, large and round, long and thin or small and thin, and that their color varies from blue- black (the most common variety) to opaline white. The smaller longer ones are best for stuffing, the larger ones for slicing, cubing, deep frying, sauteeing or stewing. Whatever type you buy, be sure that the skin is shiny and firm to the touch.

Each of the following dishes are popular throughout Israel. The recipes are designed to serve 4 - 6.

Eggplant Soup

2 medium eggplants
1/2 cup olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
4 cups tomato juice
2 cups chicken stock
2 - 3 cloves garlic, chopped finely
salt and pepper to taste
mint leaves or parsley, chopped, for garnish
1/2 cup sour cream

Peel the eggplants and cut them in slices about 2 1/2 cm. thick. In a skillet heat the oil and in this fry the slices on both sides until soft and just beginning to brown. Do not overcook. With a slotted spoon remove the eggplant from the oil and puree. Reserve the oil.

In the remaining oil saute the chopped onion until brown but not crisp.

In a large saucepan combine the tomato juice and stock. Add the onions and 1 - 2 tsp.of the oil. Bring to a boil, immediately lo- wer the flame, add the eggplant, garlic, salt and pepper and stir constantly over a very low flame for several minutes, until well blended. Remove from the flame. Let the soup cool slightly, add the sour cream and stir well. May be served hot or cold. Just before serving garnish with mint or parsley.

Stuffed Eggplant - Version 1

4 medium eggplants
oil for frying
2 medium green peppers, chopped
3 medium tomatoes, chopped
2 medium onions, chopped
2 - 3 cloves garlic, chopped finely
1/2 cup dry red wine
85 gr. tomato paste
1 Tbsp. sugar
1 tsp. each oregano, salt, pepper and sweet basil
8 thin slices Emmenthal or other Swiss-type cheese
6 Tbsp. Parmesan cheese, grated

Cut off the ends of the eggplants and slice each in half length- wise. Place the eggplants in a saucepan with lightly salted water to cover. Cook, covered, for 25 minutes over a low flame. Drain.

In a skillet heat the oil and in this saute together the green pepper, tomatoes, onion and garlic for 5 - 6 minutes. Add the wine, tomato paste, 1/4 cup of water and then the sugar, oregano, salt, pepper and basil. Continue to cook until the vegetables are soft.

Scoop out the insides of the eggplant, leaving the shells intact. Cut the eggplant flesh into very small dice and add to the sauce, mixing well. Place the eggplant shells in a greased baking dish, laying one slice of the cheese in each shell. Over this pour the sauce and filling, dividing evenly between the shells. Cover each shell with another slice of the cheese and then sprinkle over with the Parmesan cheese. Bake in a oven that has been preheated to 350 degrees Fahrenheit (180 Cellsius) for 30 minutes. Serve hot.

Stuffed Eggplants - Version 2

3 large eggplants
1/4 cup butter
3 medium green peppers, chopped coarsely
1 1/2 cups each onion and celery, chopped coarsely
2 hot green peppers, seeded and chopped
350 gr. tomatoes, peeled and choped
1 1/2 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp. basil and tarragon
salt and pepper to taste
3/4 cup Parmesan cheese, grated

Cut the eggplants in half lengthwise. Scoop out the flesh leaving a thick wall of the sides and base. Reserve the shells and chop the flesh.

In a heavy skillet melt the butter and in this saute together the green peppers, onion, celery and hot pepper until lightly browned. Add the chopped eggplant and remaining ingredients (except the cheese) and cook over a medium flame, stirring often, for 10 minutes. With this filling stuff the eggplant shells. Sprinkle liberally with the cheese and bake in an oven that has been pre- heated to 350 degrees Fahrenheit (180 Celsius) for 45 minutes. Serve hot.

Creamed Eggplant

3 medium eggplants
juice of 1 large lemon
3 Tbsp. each butter and flour
1/2 cup milk, hot
200 gr. yoghurt, at room temperature
1/4 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
salt to taste

Place the eggplants on a baking tray and bake in an oven that has been preheated to 375 degrees Fahrenheit (190 Celsius) for 20 minutes, turning after 10 minutes and piercing with a fork while turning. Transfer the eggplants to a hot broiler, about 8 cm. away from the heating unit and grill until completely soft and the skins are black and blistered. Under cold running water, remove the skins and squeeze the excess liquids out of the eggplants. Mash the eggplants together with the lemon juice.

In a skillet melt the butter, remove from the flame and stir in the flour, mixing well. Cook, stirring constantly, until the flour turns light brown and then whisk in the milk and yoghurt and continue to cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is completely smooth. Stir in the eggplant and cheese and continue to cook, stirring regularly, for 5 minutes longer, until the mixture is somewhat thickened. Season to taste with salt and serve hot, ideally with hot pita bread.

Garlic Fried Eggplant

2 large or 3 medium eggplants
2 Tbsp. salt
1 cup olive oil
4 - 6 cloves garlic, chopped
chopped parsley and lemon wedges for garnish

Peel the eggplants or not, depending on individual taste. Cut the eggplant in round slices about 1« cm. thick.

Dissolve the salt in an amount of water adequate to cover the egg- plant. Add the slices and let soak 30 - 40 minutes. Remove the slices from the water and gently squeeze dry between paper towels. In a skillet heat the oil and garlic and in this fry the eggplant slices on both sides until well browned. (If the oil seems to dry out, do not add oil, for as the eggplant cooks it will return the absorbed oil to the skillet). Remove from the oil and drain on paper toweling. Serve hot as an appetizer or as a vegetable garnished with parsley and lemon wedges.

Eggplant and Tchina

1 large eggplant
1/4 cup oil for frying
juice of 3 lemons
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 cup onion, chopped
1/4 cup tchina
1 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
2 tsp. salt
radishes and olives for garnish

Peel the eggplant and cut into 2 1/2 cm. cubes.

In a heavy skillet heat the oil and into this place the eggplant, turning occasionally so that all sides are browned. During the frying add the lemon juice and garlic. Fry until the eggplant is soft enough to mash. Remove from the flame, drain the excess oil and transfer the mixture to a bowl.

Mash the mixture thoroughly. Add the remaining ingredients and mix. Cover and refrigerate. Serve cold, garnished with the olives and radishes.

Pickled Eggplant

8 baby eggplants, whole
1 medium onion, sliced
4 cloves garlic, diced
2 bay leaves
vinegar and water as required

Place the eggplants in boiling, salted water to cover. Cook over a high flame for 5 minutes. Remove, drain and transfer to sterile, large-mouthed, heat proof jars.

Add the remaining ingredients to the water and bring to a boil once again. Pour over the eggplants and seal the jars tightly. Let stand, exposed to light, for 7 days before serving. After opening, the pickles should be refrigerated.

© Daniel Rogov