Nearly 9,000 years ago, at the dawn of civilization, a group of hunters and food-gathers came across an oasis not far from the Dead Sea and settled there to build what most archaeologists now agree was the first city built on earth. The remains of that ancient settlement, located only 1 1/2 kilometers from the modern city of Jericho, have fascinated modern scientists for many years, and nothing has fascinated them more than the special storerooms and large clay pots that were obviously meant for the storage of honey.

Honey has never ceased to play an important role in the traditions of the Holy Land. Following its first mention in Exodus, when the Lord promised Moses "a land flowing with milk and honey", there are more than 120 mentions of honey in the Old Testament, one of the best known being the Proverb that commands "...my son, eat thou honey, for it is good, and the honeycomb is sweet to the taste". Nor is it only to Jews that honey was important. Joseph and Mary, the parents of Jesus considered it a special treat; Jesus himself is said to have gained special pleasure from drinking honey; and the Prophet Mohammed enjoyed it both plain, in cakes and taken together with tea.

At no time does honey play a more important role in Jewish tradition than during the holiday of Rosh ha Shannah, the onset of the new year, when apples dipped in honey symbolize hopes for a sweet and good year. After fast periods, both Jews and Moslems moisten their lips with honey to remind them of the sweetness of life and during the period of Succoth, Jews dine on dishes that include honey to celebrate the sweetness of life and freedom.

There was a time, however, when honey was not all that popular among Jews. During the period of slavery in Egypt, it was Hebrew slaves who gathered honey for the pharaohs and, as illustrated in Egyptian tomb reliefs as long as 5,000 years ago, honey was collected by smoking bees from their nests. Because bees had little fondness for this activity, the chore was not always rewarding to those slaves who had to get close to the bees' nests. To make life even more complicated, stealing or even sampling from the honey collected for the pharaohs was considered a crime punishable by death.

Despite these hazards, the pleasant flavor and energy-giving properties of the sweet clear syrup made honey the sweetener par excellence. Another virtue that made honey popular was the discovery that because it is almost pure sugar, honey ferments very readily and a honeycomb left in water for several days produces a delicious and mildly intoxicating liquid. This honey ale, more commonly known as mead, was popular for thousands of years.

Nor did honey escape the scrutiny of medical practitioners. Hippocrates said that when combined with pepper and vinegar it was useful in treating "feminine disorders" and could be used to revive victims of suffocation. The Greek naturalist Theophrastus said that honey had "a calming effect on elephants, eunuchs, parrots and temperamental cooks". Regardless of whether one has an elephant or a eunuch at home, each of the following honey based recipes will provide, if not a calming effect, at least a very pleasant dining experience. Unless otherwise noted, each of the recipes is designed to serve 6 - 8.

Honeyed Spiced Beef

5 1/2 kilos beef brisket, weighed with the bone
1 1/2 Tbsp. black peppercorns
1 1/2 tsp. whole cloves
5 Tbsp. coarse salt (kosher salt)
3 bay leaves
6 Tbsp. honey
2 small onions, unpeeled, halved
4 medium carrots, halved
2 stalks celery, halved
1/4 cup celery leaves

Have the butcher remove the bone and excess fat from the brisket.

In a small bowl crush the peppercorns and cloves together. Add the salt, crumble the bay leaves into the mixture and add the honey. Mix well. Lay the meat out flat on a large earthenware dish and rub it on all sides with the honey mixture. Cover the dish with greaseproof paper and let it stand 3 days in a cool place, turning and rubbing it with the marinade once each day.

Just before cooking wash the meat under cold running water and pat dry with paper toweling. Roll the meat and tie with kitchen string. Transfer the tied meat roll to a flameproof casserole. Add the onion, carrot, celery, celery leaves and water just to cover. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer for 2 hours.

Remove the meat from the casserole and set aside to cool. When thoroughly cool cover and refrigerate the meat overnight. Serve cold the following day.

Honeyed Chicken

2 1/2 cups dry white wine
1 cup sugar
1 cup honey
2 tsp. ground cloves
1/2 cup seedless raisins
1 Tbsp. lemon peel, grated
6 egg yolks
1 1/4 kilos cooked, boneless chicken, diced

In a saucepan combine the wine and sugar. Bring to a boil and let boil, stirring occasionally, until thickened (about 10 minutes). Remove and reserve 1/2 cup of this syrup. To the saucepan add the honey, cloves, raisins and lemon peel. Bring to a boil and then reduce the flame and simmer for 2 - 3 minutes.

In a mixing bowl beat the egg yolks lightly and into these stir the reserved syrup. Pour this mixture back into the saucepan and cook over a low flame, stirring constantly and taking care not to boil until the mixture is thickened. Stir in the chicken.

To serve hot pour over toast points. To serve cold, let cool and then refrigerate until chilled through and serve on well chilled plates.

Mixed Honey Pickles

1 piece of parsley root, about 2" (5 cm.) long
1 medium turnip, peeled and grated
1/4 head cabbage, shredded coarsely
4 pears, peeled, cored and halved
1/2 cup each vinegar and dry white wine
1/2 tsp. allspice pinch or two of saffron
1 cup honey
2 Tbsp. Dijon style mustard
1 cup raisins
1/2 tsp. nutmeg
1/4 tsp. each aniseed, fennel seed, ginger and cinnamon

Place the parsley root, turnip and cabbage in a saucepan and pour over cold water to cover. Boil until nearly tender and then add the pears and cook until tender. Drain and let cool.

In a separate saucepan combine the vinegar, wine, allspice, saffron, honey and mustard and bring to the boil. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer gently for about 15 minutes. To this mixture add the vegetables and fruits. Pour into sterilized jars, filling each jar to the brim and seal. Let stand 24 - 48 hours before serving. (Serves 8 - 12).

Fruit Pudding

2 cups sweet cream
1/2 cup almonds, ground coarsely
1 tsp. rosewater (optional)
1/4 tsp. bitter almond extract
1/2 cup honey
3 Tbsp. rice flour
1 tsp. ginger, powdered
3/4 cup sugar
1 cup each dried apricots and dried apples, chopped coarsely
1 cup each figs and seedless raisins, chopped coarsely
2 cups slightly stale sponge cake, diced finely
1/4 cup butter
1 cup slightly stale sponge cake, crumbed

In a small saucepan combine the sweet cream, almonds, rosewater and almond extract and simmer very gently for about 10 minutes. Strain into a large clean saucepan and add the honey, rice flower, ginger and a cup of the sugar, mixing well. Bring just to the boil and immediately lower the flame. Simmer gently, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens. Remove from the flame and stir in the fruits and the diced sponge cake and transfer to an ovenproof dessert dish.

In a clean saucepan melt the butter. Into this stir the cake crumbs and the remaining sugar. Cook over a low flame, stirring, until the mixture is crisp and crumbly. Spoon this mixture over the pudding and place in a hot oven just until the top is nicely browned.

Honey and Saffron Quiche

pie crust for a 9" (23 cm) pie shell
2 cups sweet cream
1/2 cup milk
pinch or two of saffron
3 eggs
2 egg yolks
1/2 cup honey

Place the pie crust in a pie shell, pierce it with the tines of a fork and bake in a medium-hot oven for 10 - 12 minutes. Remove from the oven and let the shell cool. Reduce the oven temperature to medium.

In a saucepan combine the cream, milk and saffron and heat gently until hot throughout, but do not allow to boil. In a small bowl beat together the eggs, egg yolks and honey. To this slowly add the hot liquids, beating constantly with a wire whisk. Pour the blended mixture into the pie shell and bake in the medium oven until the filling is set (20 - 30 minutes). Serve warm or cold. (Serves 6).

© Daniel Rogov