Besides being the sweetest of all fruits, the fig calls forth dreams of Mediterranean nights, romance and even immortality. The ancient Greeks believed the fig tree to be invested with divinity. The Romans, believing that Romulus and Remus, the founders of their city, were born under the sheltering limbs of a fig tree, render the tree great homage, and even today the English celebrate Palm Sunday by eating fig pudding, probably in recollection of the entry of Jesus into Jerusalem and his encounter with a barren fig tree.

Cultivated in the Middle-East since antiquity, figs have been found in the tombs of the pharaohs, and there are many mentions of this delicate fruit in the Bible, New Testament and Koran. In the Garden of Eden, for example it was with the leaves of the fig tree that Adam and Eve covered themselves after they had sinned. More recently, archaeologists excavating the ruins of the city of Gezer in the Judean hills uncovered dried dates dating from the Neolithic Age, nearly seven thousand years ago.

During those early days there were frequently more figs than the people could eat, so they were also pressed into a honey-like mixture. This process continues today, especially in Arab villages where this delicious liquid, called devalah, has many of the qualities of fine honey. Some biblical scholars, realizing that honey itself was rare, claim that devalah was responsible for the passage that referred to Israel as a "land flowing with milk and honey".

In the New Testament, Matthew associates the coming of summer with the fig tree when he writes: "From the fig tree its lesson: as soon as its branches become tender and it puts forth its leaves, you know that summer is near (Matthew 24:32).

It is no mere coincidence that fig trees always been part of the dry, rocky and hilly Israeli countryside. Because the trees are capable of thriving in even the poorest soil, and have the ability to grow on the steepest hillsides they are naturally suited to the land. Even more important, Israel is one of the few countries in the world that abounds with fig wasps, the females of which are responsible for the pollination of the fig trees. Thousands of years before men and women had discovered how to artificially pollinate fruit trees, the job was being done for them by these wasps.

The fig tree has had two other important meanings throughout history. First, because the tree often attains heights of five to ten meters, its thick leaves provide shade from the scorching heat of the Israeli summer. Even more important, at least since the time of the patriarchs, the people of the land have dreamed of the day when they, their neighbors and the world "...shall beat their swords into plowshares, and their spears into pruning hooks; and nation shall not lift up sword against nation; neither shall they learn war any more. But they shall sit, every man under his vine and his fig tree; And none shall make them afraid".

Whether eaten plain (unlike most other fruits, figs can be eaten whole - skin, pulp and seeds), made into a delicious beverage or used in a variety of recipes, figs are no less adored today than they were in ancient times. Each of the following recipes will serve 4 - 6.

Omelet with Figs

4 or 6 eggs
4 very thin slices smoked salmon, cut in 1" (2 1/2 cm.) squares
4 dried figs, chopped coarsely
salt and pepper to taste
2 Tbsp. butter
6 Tbsp. tomato sauce, ideally home made, seasoned with salt and pepper

In a bowl beat the eggs lightly with a fork. Add the salmon, figs, salt and pepper to taste and stir well. In a medium skillet heat the butter and when hot pour in the egg mixture. Stir once and then let it set lightly on the bottom. With the aid of a spatula gently roll up the omelet. Transfer to a serving plate, heat the tomato sauce and pour the hot sauce over the omelet.

Lamb with Stuffed Figs

2 1/4 lb. (1 kilo) lamb shoulder, cut in 1 1/2" (4 cm.) chunks
30 dried figs, each stuffed with 1 shelled walnut or pecan
1/2 cup lemon juice
1/4 cup olive oil
2 - 3 cloves garlic
salt and pepper to taste

Season the lamb generously with salt and pepper. In a heavy skillet heat the oil and in this saute the lamb until nicely browned all over. Carefully add 1/4 cup of water, the garlic, figs and half the lemon juice. Simmer, covered, until the lamb is tender (about 35 minutes). Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper, add lemon juice to taste and serve hot directly from the skillet.

Figs and Walnuts with Sherry

12 small ripe figs, stemmed and quartered
1/4 lb. (115 gr.) dates, stoned
3/4 cup cream sherry
6 oz. (180 gr.) walnuts, chopped coarsely
1 cup whipping cream

Put the figs and dates in a bowl and spoon over 1/2 cup of the sherry. Cover and let stand at room temperature for 3 - 4 hours. Add the walnuts and stir in.

Whip the cream together with the remaining sherry. Spoon the fruits and nuts into dessert glasses and top with the sherried cream. Serve lightly chilled.

Fig Pastries

36 figs, minced
6 Tbsp. apricot preserves
3 oz. (85 gr.) blanched almonds, chopped
14 sheets of phylo dough (strudel pastry)
1/2 cup melted butter
1 1/2 cups extra fine sugar
3 Tbsp. dark honey
ground cinnamon as required

In a mixing bowl combine the figs with the apricot preserves, - almonds and cinnamon to taste. Knead until the mixture is well blended. Separate the mixture into 28 separate balls.

Unroll 1 sheet of the phylo dough and brush sparingly with the melted butter. Cut the sheet lengthwise in half, fold each of these pieces in half lengthwise and at the bottom of each half place one portion of the fig mixture. Fold the sides lengthwise over the filling and then fold the bottom over and roll as for a jelly roll. Fasten the last inch (2 1/2 cm) of pastry with a flour and water paste if necessary. Repeat this process until all of the pastries are rolled.

Make a syrup by combining the sugar with 1/2 cup of water in a heavy saucepan. Bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Re- move from the flame, stir in the honey and a pinch of cinnamon. Reduce the heat and simmer over a low flame until the mixture has the consistency of light syrup.

Bake the pastries in an oven that has been preheated to 350 degrees Fahrenheit (180 Celsius) until puffed and golden on all sides (about 30 minutes), turning once. Transfer the baked pastries immediately to the simmering honey syrup and let stand in the syrup for 3 - 4 minutes. With a slotted spoon remove the pastries to a flat dish to dry. Serve at room temperature or store in a completely dry container.

Candied Figs

1 lb. (450 gr.) dried figs, chopped coarsely
juice of 1 large lemon
1 1/2 cups sugar
1/2 tsp. nutmeg
1/4 tsp. each cinnamon and ground ginger
1/4 lb. (115 gr.) walnuts, chopped coarsely

Put the figs and lemon juice in a heavy saucepan and pour over water barely to cover. Let stand 2 hours and then heat over a low flame, stirring constantly, until the figs are tender. Add the sugar and seasonings, stirring well and let cook until the figs are glazed and the mixture has thickened to the consistency of jam. Remove from the flame and stir in the walnuts. Let cool before refrigerating. Serve cold with demitasse spoons. Optionally may be served with sweetened whipped cream.

Fig Pudding

1 cup flour, sifted
1 tsp. baking powder
1 lb. (225 gr.) dried figs, chopped finely
1/2 lb. (115 gr.) suet, ground
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 cup milk
2 eggs
1/2 tsp. each powdered nutmeg and ginger
1/4 tsp. salt

Into a bowl resift the flour together with the baking powder. Add the figs, suet, bread crumbs and sugar and mix well. In a separate bowl beat together the milk, eggs, salt, nutmeg and ginger and then mix this together with the figs.

Pour the mixture into a mold with a tightly fitting cover, place in a pot with just enough water to come 2/3 of the way up the sides of the mold, cover and steam until the pudding is well set (about 3 1/2 hours), adding water to the pot only if necessary. Serve hot with custard sauce (recipe follows) or whipped cream.

Custard Sauce

1 1/2 cups sweet cream
6 Tbsp. sugar
3 egg yolks
1 tsp. rum or brandy
pinch of salt

Beat together the egg yolks, sugar and salt until very light in color. In a saucepan scald the cream and pour it into the eggs, mixing briskly. Place the mixture in the top of a double boiler over but not in barely simmering water and cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce coats the back of a spoon (8 - 10 minutes). Cool, stirring occasionally, add and mix in the rum and then chill. Serve well chilled.

© Daniel Rogov