There is nothing lean, light or subtle about the traditional Jewish dishes of Central and Eastern Europe and a dish such as cholent (slowly cooked beef stew that is loaded with beans, potatoes, and, if you're truly lucky, kishke) hits you on the head, make its way to the stomach with a thump and then sits heavily in the intestines for several hours. Loaded with incredible amounts of fat and cholesterol, this is a dish that ignores nearly all of the rules of what we have come to think of as refined cuisine. Despite these seeming faults, well prepared cholent can be a delight beyond comparison. Oh yes, for the uninitiated, kishke (which Americans euphemistically call "stuffed derma") is made by stuffing beef intestines with bread crumbs, seasonings and chicken fat). I am not quite sure why, but the best cholent in the country always seems to be found in Tel Aviv. Following are a few of my favorite places for dining on this treat.

Shumlik Cohen, 146 Herzl: Located here since 1936, this is cholent at its best. Rich in flavor, with an abundance of meat and potatoes and kishke that is crisp, tightly packed, well seasoned and with lots of good chicken fat. Best with a glass of slivovitz (plum brandy).

Elimelech, 35 Wolfson: Served in such large portions that it takes an active act of will to finish it but so delicious that you will feel guilty if you leave any on your plate, this thick, rich cholent is made with red and brown beans and comes (if you like) with kishke that is plump and seasoned perfectly. Best here with cold draft beer.

Batia, 197 Dizengoff. Truly delicious stuff, sometimes even with the gift of a marrow bone in the stew. The kishke here is especially thick and even though lighter than most has plenty of onion and pepper to make it irresistible.

© Daniel Rogov