Cavalier: 1 Ben Sira, Jerusalem. (02) 624-2945. Daily 12:30 - 16:00 and 18:30 - 23:30. Pleasing atmosphere with responsive service and a good wine list. As starters, the tuna sashimi, goose liver terrine, and then the veal brains with lemon-butter sauce or coquilles St. Jacques with artichokes and nuts.

Zuzobra: 7 Shenkar, Herzliya Pituach. (09) 957-7077. Daily 12:00 - 24:00. Long tables, invariably shared with whomever wanders in after you and a host of small dishes from the post-Modern Asian cuisine (think of them Far-Eastern tapas if you like) come together in ways are "pure fun". Egg rolls in hot and sweet sauce, skewers of chicken hearts and herbs, cellophane noodles with shrimps.

Manta Ray: Alma Beach (near the Dolphinarium), Tel Aviv. (03) 517-4773. Daily 09:00 - 24:00. Relaxed atmosphere with a view of the beach and the sea. Service not great but the fine meze of at least ten first courses, the seafood soup, crabs vinaigrette, grilled drumfish with lemon and sage and other dishes make it eminently worthwhile.

Kimmel: 6 HaShachar, Tel Aviv. (03) 510-5204. Daily 12:00 - 24:00. Appealing ambiance, good service and cuisine with a distinctly Mediterranean flavor. Liver pate with Calvados, mixed cheese and vegetable platter, beef tongue in Provencale sauce, chocolate cake with Grand Marnier liqueur.

Ali Oli: 2 Brenner, Tel Aviv. (03)528-1378. Monday-Saturday 12:00 - 02:00 or later. A relaxed Spanish tapas bar-restaurant in downtown Tel Aviv. Among my favorites, gravlax with creamed cheese, pickled mussels with arugula, sardines with paprika and onions, shrimp salad with vegetables and herbs, grilled shrimps and crabs, garlicky sausages and fried young baccala (cod). Excellent wine list.

© Daniel Rogov