There are few more pleasant ways to dine than by building a meal from a collection of five, ten or more of the miniature first courses that Italians call antipasti, Greeks and Arabs call meze, and Spaniards call tapas. Following are recommendations for several restaurants, each of which I consider a personal favorite, all of which are relatively informal, and the first course offerings are among the very best in the country. Meals based on tapas and wine for two at each place will come to under NIS 300.

Manta Ray: Alma Beach (on the beach about 300 meters south of the Dolphinarium), Tel Aviv: Chef Ruby Portnoy has is master of the meze. Among his first course dishes that I most adore are the rich Balkan style ikra; the Greek yoghurt and cucumber based tzadziki; slices of red tuna, served sashimi style; his lemon-rich tabbouleh; lightly marinated sardines; excellent labaneh on slices of fried eggplant; crushed black olives; all with the excellent rosemary flavored focaccio. During the day, your best bet for a beverage is probably ice cold beer. At night try a bottle of the good local Chardonnay. Open daily from 12:00 - 24:00. Tel: 03 5174773.

Ali Oli: Brenner 2, Tel Aviv: Chef Antonio Mensa serves Spanish tapas as appealing as they are authentic. During a recent visit my companion and I feasted on a seviche of red tuna slices in a ginger and soya sauce; a grilled artichoke filled with calamari; several large shrimps that had been grilled in their shells; a portion of grilled crabs; a platter of vegetables containing among others grilled red peppers, eggplant fried with oil and garlic, squash in a honey and onion marinade and vine leaves filled with creamy goats' cheese.. Nor did we put up much resistance when it came to devouring thin strips of sirloin that had been rolled about a cheese-rich pesto sauce; a plate of mussels in garlic and butter sauce; and calamari served in a tomato and sweet cream sauce. Be sure to explore the red and white Spanish wines offered. Open Monday - Saturday 12:00 - 02:00. Tel: 03 5281378.

Seafood Bar: Rehov Maskit 30, Herziliya Pituach: Dining on chef Eyal Lavi's first courses is always a treat. I never resist opening my meal here without at least six oysters. (From then to baby octopus in a garlic-rich lemon and olive oil sauce; the terrine of eggplant layered with Bulgarian cheese, pesto and sun dried tomatoes; the baby coquilles St. Jacques, in lemon and butter sauce; and two or three large grilled shrimps in a sauce with basil, butter and tequila. Best wine matches are the local and Australian Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Open daily from 12:00 - 24:00. Tel: 09 9511219.

© Daniel Rogov