Following are recommendations for what I consider the best fish and seafood soups in the country. In nearly all cases, the soups are served with rouille or aioli, the first a Mediterranean sauce based on garlic, sweet and hot red peppers, potatoes, and olive oil, all whipped to a smooth consistency, and the second a Provencal mayonnaise-like sauce made from garlic that has been pounded to a paste with egg yolk and olive oil. Both of these are classic accompaniments to fish soups because their garlic-rich flavor highlights the flavors of the soup and the fish in them. In every case, these soups can make an ideal light meal, especially when accompanied by a bottle of local or California Sauvignon Blanc or red Shiraz from Pay d'Oc or the Rhone Valley. The soups reviewed below range in price from NIS 30 - 40. All are well worth the money.

Idi, Rehov haBosem 6, Ashdod: With a rich stock and with plenty of fish, shrimp and crabs to which tomatoes and fresh herbs have been added, this is a lovely country style soup. Open daily 12:00 - 24:00 or later. Tel: 08 8532058.

Forel, Rehov Frishman 10, Tel Aviv. Seasoned with tumeric, pepper and saffron, and with a nice touch of hotness, this filling and tasty soup comes with plenty of fish, half a large crab and several large shrimps, all of which have been cooked just right. Open daily from 12:00 - 23:00.
Tel: 03 5222664.

Arcadia, Rehov Agrippas 10, Jerusalem. Perhaps the best of all the fish and seafood soups in
the country today, with generous amounts of shrimps, grouper and red mullets, all in a rich, perfectly smooth stock flavored with saffron, fennel, anise garlic and pepper. Open Saturday - Thursday from 12:30 - 15:00 and from 19:00 - 23:00. Fridays open evenings only. Cl osed Sunday. Tel: 02 6249138.

Seafood Bar: Rehov Maskit 30, Herzliya Pituach. Two versions of soup here - a fish soup that is
is exquisite because of the generous use of Mediterranean herbs and a crab soup that is geuniuely
Provencal in style. Both are delicious. Open daily from 12:00 - 24:00. Tel: 09 9511219.

Al haMaim: On the Sharon Beach, Herzliya Pituach. Take a table indoors during the cool or the rainy days but on the sunny days be sure to sit outdoors on the terrace overlooking the beach and sea in this distinctly tavernna-like restaurant. The fish and seafood soup, any of the calamari dishes, the shrimps on skewers and the fillets of fresh sea fish are always good bets in this pleasant place where the service is as warm as you will find and even the wine list offers a few nice surprises. Open daily 12:30 - 23:00. Tel: (09) 950-1767

Also worth considering in Tel Aviv are the soups at Manta Ray, where chef Ruby Portnoy
makes a superb crab soup when he is in the mood; Ali-Oli, where the excellent soup is in
the Spanish style; and Apicius which on special occasions offers a local and excellent version of bouillabaisse.

© Daniel Rogov