The first liqueur was probably made when aniseed berries were added to distilled palm wine in the Eastern Mediterranean as long ago as 800 BC and this beverage, known even 2,500 years ago as arak, has remained the most popular alcoholic drink of the en- tire Middle-East. Even today, arak is the best loved drink of Jews who have come to Israel from North-African and Moslem nations and even though devout Moslems are forbidden to drink - alcoholic beverages, arak and the flavor of anise have maintained a special place in the hearts and on the palates of the people.

Arak, which is now made when aniseed berries are steeped in a neutral spirit, is a colorless, licorice flavored liqueur that can be consumed either with or without water. When mixed with water, arak becomes cloudy. Under any circumstances, it is a fairly strong drink but experienced drinkers know that there is a way to avoid becoming intoxicated on arak. Whether this special knowledge derived from the astute observations of some early Arab philosopher or simply by trial and error is unknown, but nearly all of those who enjoy arak know that eating small amounts of food while they are sipping will prevent intoxication.

The flavor of anise is even more popular when not in alcoholic form. Cultivated in the Mediterranean basin since the days of the First and Second Temples, the aromatic fennel plant, a close cousin of the aniseed shrub, is often used in regional dishes. With the mild flavor of anise, the edible part of this plant (actually an herb) is the fleshy bulbous stem at the base of the leafy stalk.

Although fennel is extremely popular in salads (uncooked, for example, it goes very well with nothing more than a simple vinaigrette dressing), there are a large variety of recipies for cooking and using this delicious vegetable in a multitude of ways. There are also several recipes that rely on arak as an ingredient. Even teetotalers should have no objection to cooking with arak as the cooking process boils off all of the alcohol in the liqueur. Each of the following recipes will serve 4 - 6.

Braised Fennel

8 small or 4 large fennel bulbs, trimmed
the skin of a chicken
2 medium onions, sliced
2 medium carrots, sliced thinly
1/4 cup beef or chicken stock

In a large saucepan bring lightly salted water to a roling boil and into this plunge the fennel bulbs. Return to the boil and let boil for 5 minutes. Cool under running water, drain and dry well on toweling. If using small bulbs leave whole; if using large bulbs, cut in quarters.

Line a flameproof casserole with the chicken skin and on this lay the sliced onions and carrots. Over these distribute the fennel, pour over the stock and bring to the boil. Cover and transfer to a medium oven and cook until tender (about 25 minutes). Serve hot as an hors d'oeuvre or as a vegetable.

Fennel a la Grecque

6 Tbsp. each olive oil and lemon juice
1/2 tsp. salt
2 Tbsp. shallots or green part of spring onions, chopped
1 bouquet garni made by tying together in a cheesecloth sack: 6 sprigs parsley, 1 parsley root, 1 small stalk celery with leaves, 1 sprig thyme, 12 whole peppercorns and 6 coriander seeds
1 1/2 lb. (675 gr.) large fennel bulbs, trimmed, washed and quartered
salt and pepper to taste
3 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely

In a large enameled saucepan combine the olive oil, lemon juice, salt, shallots and bouquet garni with 2 cups of cold water. Bring just to a boil, reduce the flame, cover and let simmer gently for 10 minutes. To this mixture add the fennel, tossing to cover with the liquid. Cover and simmer until the bulbs are tender (30 - 40 minutes).

Remove the fennel from the saucepan with a slotted spoon and arrange in a serving dish. Rapidly boil down the liquids until reduced to 6 - 7 Tbsp., correct the seasoning with salt and pepper and strain the liquid over the fennel. Let cool and then refrigerate, covered. Once refrigerated the fennel may be stored for 2 - 3 days. Serve very well chilled as an hors d'oeuvre or as part of a buffet. Immediately before serving, sprinkle over the chopped parsley.

Grilled Herring with Fennel

6 whole herrings, about 1/2 lb. (225 gr.) each, well cleaned and trimmed
1/4 cup fennel, chopped
1/2 Tbsp. salt
3 Tbsp. butter
the juice of 1 large lemon

Cut three narrow slantwise slits across each side of each fish. Mix the fennel and salt together and insert in the cuts and body cavity of the fish.

In a heavy flameproof casserole melt the butter and mix in the lemon juice. Lay the fish in and turn several times, making sure the fish is coated on all sides. Place under a hot grill for 4 - 5 minutes on each side, basting once or twice. Serve hot, directly from the casserole.

Stuffed Fennel Bulbs

6 large fennel bulbs, washed and trimmed
1 1/2 lb. (675 gr.) chopped beef or lamb
3 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
1 Tbsp. finely ground black pepper
2 tsp. tabil spice mixture (recipe immediately following)
salt to taste
6 Tbsp. olive or other oil
3 eggs, beaten lightly
2 Tbsp. Parmesan cheese, grated (omit for kashrut)
1 1/2 cups well spiced tomato sauce

In a saucepan with a large amount of lightly salted boiling water cook the fennel bulbs until barely tender (15 - 20 minutes). Drain, dry on paper toweling and cut in half lengthwise.

In a mixing bowl combine the meat, parsley, pepper, tabil and salt and work together well. In a heavy skillet heat the oil and in this saute the spice mixture until nicely browned. Remove from the flame and let cool. Mix in the eggs and, if it is to be used, the cheese.

In a lightly greased baking dish place half the fennel bulbs cut side up and onto these pile the filling. Top with the remain- ing fennel halves, spoon over the tomato sauce and bake in a pre- heated very hot oven for 15 - 20 minutes. Serve piping hot.

Tabil

Tabil is a popular Tunisian spice mixture which may be used to season many Middle-Eastern meat and vegetable dishes. To make the tabil combine 2 1/2 tsp. each of finely chopped garlic, finely ground caraway seeds and crushed hot red pepper flakes with 1 1/2 tsp. of finely ground coriander seeds. The mixture may be stored for 2 - 3 months if kept in a tightly sealed container.

Fennel Salad with Arak and Walnuts

4 small fennel bulbs, trimmed and cut in very thin slices
3 Tbsp. each lemon juice and sweet cream
1 tsp. arak (or ouzo or anisette)
1 Tbsp. Dijon style mustard
salt and pepper to taste
2 oz. (60 gr.) walnuts, chopped coarsely
1 Tbsp. parsley or tarragon, chopped finely

Place the sliced fennel into a bowl of ice water, let chill for about 1/2 hour and then drain well.

Combine the lemon juice, cream, mustard and arak and season to taste with salt and pepper, beating together gently. Place the fennel slices on a serving dish, pour over the dressing, sprinkle over the nuts and then sprinkle over the parsley. Serve chilled as an hors d'oeuvre, as part of a buffet or as a salad.

Rice Pudding with Arak

1/4 lb. (125 gr.) ground rice
1/2 cup sugar
2 tsp. arak (or ouzo or anisette)
1 tsp. each caraway seed and fennel seed
pinch of grated ginger
chopped pistachio nuts for serving

Place the rice in a mixing bowl and pour over about 2 cups of cold water. Mix until a smooth paste is formed and then add the sugar, arak, caraway seed and fennel seed. In a saucepan bring 3 cups of water to a boil together with the ginger and to this gradually add the rice paste, stirring well with a wooden spoon. Return to the boil, reduce the flame and then let simmer, stirring occasionally until the mixture thickens (about 1 hour). Pour the mixture into individual dessert dishes, let cool and then refrigerate until well chilled. Sprinkle over the chopped pistachio nuts just before serving.

Arak Cookies

2 1/2 cups butter, softened
1 cup confectioners' sugar
4 egg yolks
6 Tbsp. arak (or ouzo or anisette)
5 cups flour
1/2 tsp. baking powder
1 cup blanched almonds, ground finely

In a mixing bowl cream together the butter, sugar and egg yolks. Add the arak and cream well once again. Into this mixture sift the flour and baking powder. Knead into a firm dough. Add the nuts and knead again. Form dough into 3" (7 cm.) crescents and place these on an ungreased cookie tin. Bake in a medium oven for 20 - 25 minutes. Sprinkle the cookies with confectioners' sugar while still hot. May be served hot or cool.

© Daniel Rogov