Regardless of whether one visits Jerusalem's Machane Yehuda shouk, eats at a streetside felafel or shawarma joint or dines in a fine restaurant, it is simply not difficult to find high quality ingredients to turn the simplest meal into a gastronomic adventure. This abundance makes some forget that fine food has not always been taken for granted in Jerusalem. In fact, during those times when the city was under siege, twice by the Romans, once during the Moslem invasion and again during the War of Independence, food of any kind became extremely scarce in the city. Despite that, and regardless of whether one think in terms of miracles or, more simply, of the charms of the city, even during those terrible times, no one in the city had to starve because within the streets of the city, the hills surrounding it and nearly all of the empty spaces within the city there grow so many wild foods, all free for the taking, that no one need ever be truly hungry.

Even though grapes, berries and mushrooms grow wild in the hills surrounding the city and fig and olive trees are to be found almost everywhere, the most popular of the "free foods" found in the city is probably mallow. Sometimes known as poor man's bread, mallow is an herb with dark green leaves, showy flours and disk-shaped fruits. Because it thrives in even the poorest or most rocky soils, this is one of the oldest inhabitants of the Middle-East and for 3,000 years the children of the city have enjoyed eating its fruits just for fun. Most modern day Jerusalemites refer to mallow by its Arabic or Latin names - hubeza or malva, as opposed to the moremodern Hebrew name, helmonit.

Even though no-one has ever ranked mallow with the true culinary treats of the world, no one has ever scoffed at. For centuries, the poor have used the leaves in salads and some medical people and healers continue, even today, to use mallow-flowers in poultices and infusions of mallow leaves to relieve chest pains.

More importantly, modern cooks have realized that the young leaves of the mallow plant can be delightful when served in salads, that the buds of the flowers can be sauteed gently in oil seasoned with allspice and used as a garnish with meat and fish dishes and that the mature leaves can be used in making a large variety of recipes. In each of the following recipes, if mallow is not available you can substitute either spinach or Swiss chard.

Mallow Pie

2 lb. (900 gr.) mallow leaves, washed well
1/2 cup butter, melted
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 lb. (115 gr.) Gruyere cheese, grated
3 Tbsp. Parmesan cheese, grated
1 cup spring onions, chopped
3 oz. (85 gr.) philo pastry leaves (strudel-leaf pastry)
salt and pepper to taste

Shake off as much water from the mallow as possible. In a heavy skillet heat 2 Tbsp. of the butter and the olive oil and in this saute the mallow, covered, over a high flame, until steam appears. Reduce the flame and simmer until the mallow is tender (5 - 6 minutes). With a slotted spoon remove the mallow from the skillet and chop coarsely. Return to the skillet and season to taste with salt and pepper.

In a small mixing bowl combine the cheeses, spring onions and salt and pepper to taste. Add this mixture to the mallow and mix well.

Butter a square casserole dish or cake tin and in the bottom place 6 leaves of the philo dough. Brush the top of each leaf with butter before covering with the next leaf. Over these spread the prepared mallow and cheese mixture. Cover this with 6 more leaves of the dough, again buttering the leaves and also buttering the top. Be sure that the edges of the pastry are well buttered and bake in a medium oven for 30 - 40 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes and invert on a baking dish. Return to the oven until the top is crisp and golden-brown (about 10 minutes). Serve hot or at room temperature. (Serves 4 - 6).

Mallow Soup

1 lb. (450 gr.) mallow leaves
3 Tbsp. butter
3 eggs
the juice of 1 large lemon or more to taste
salt and pepper to taste
6 cups chicken stock, hot
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
1 cup toasted bread croutons

Remove the heavy stems from the mallow and wash well under running water. Dry the leaves on paper toweling. In a heavy skillet melt the butter and in this saute the mallow leaves until just tender.

In a small mixing bowl beat together the eggs, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Add 3 Tbsp. of the hot stock and beat well. Add this mixture to the hot chicken stock and then add the mallow. Mix briskly, garnish with the cheese and croutons and serve hot. (Serves 6 - 8).

Capers

Equally popular in the regional cuisine have been capers, the small closed flowers of the caper bush. Known in Hebrew as tsalafim, the Pharaohs invariably packed some of these into their tombs to add spice to their voyage to the beyond; Moses found them a tempting addition to his food while he was wandering through the Sinai; and Mohammed considered them a great treat. Because they regenerate rapidly after fires, they can be found where nothing else seems to grow. Readily available in the Jerusalem forests and the Kidron Valley, they can also be found in almost every vacant lot in the city.

Similar in taste to tiny sharp gherkins, capers are widely used in sauces and as a piquant condiment, adding a distinctly Mediterranean touch to ground lamb or beef dishes. To prepare fresh capers, scrub them well under cold running water, pack them into a sterile jar, pour in vinegar to cover and let stand 3 - 4 days before using. Once refrigerated, they will last for many months.

To make a caper sauce to go with hold or cold fish, eggs or vegetables, melt 2 Tbsp. of butter. Into this stir 1/4 cup of flour. Stir the mixture well with a whisk and then add 1 egg yolk that has been mixed with 1 Tbsp of cold water. Over a moderate flame slowly add another 1/2 cup butter, stirring constantly. When the mixture is smooth, gently stir in 2 - 3 Tbsp. of well drained capers. Add pepper to taste and serve the sauce hot.

Salmon Steaks and Capers

4 salmon steaks, about 1/2 lb. (225 gr.) each (may also use tuna, locus or red snapper
olive oil and wine vinegar as required
salt and pepper to taste
2 tsp. parsley, chopped
4 lemon slices
capers, drained, as required

Place each fish steak on a piece of aluminum foil and then brush the fish lightly with oil. Sprinkle over a small amount of the vinegar, season each steak with salt and pepper and scatter a pinch of parsley on each steak. Add a slice of lemon and several capers.

Fold and seal the fish parcels, making sure they are tightly closed. Place them on a baking sheet and heat in an oven that has been preheated to 400 degrees Farenheit (200 degrees Celsius) until cooked through (about 15 minutes).

Transfer the parcels to a preheated serving platter and open them at the table, taking care not to let the liquids escape. (Serves 4).

Veal in Wine and Capers

2 1/2 lb. (1 1/4 kilo.) leg or loin of veal
3 whole cloves
1 large onion, sliced
1/4 cup olive oil
3 oz. (85 gr.) tuna fish, flaked
8 anchovy fillets, mashed
salt and pepper to taste
1 cup wine vinegar
1 cup sugar
2 onions, sliced
the juice of 2 lemons, strained
the rind of 1 lemon, grated
2 Tbsp. each celery leaves and parsley, both chopped
1 1/4 tsp. basil
1/2 tsp. thyme
1 cup mayonnaise
3 oz. (85 gr.) capers

Trim the fat and sinew from the meat, tie with string and wash under cold running water. To a large kettle with an ample amount of lightly salted water add the whole cloves, sliced onion and the meat and bring slowly to a boil. Boil for 5 minutes and then run under cold water for 10 minutes.

In a large flameproof casserole heat the oil and in this saute the meat, tuna and anchovies until the meat is browned all over. When brown season with salt and pepper. Add to the saucepan the lemon juice, wine vinegar, sugar, lemon rind, celery leaves, parsley, basil and thyme. Cover the casserole and cook over a moderate flame until the meat is tender, turning occasionally. Allow the meat to cool, cover and refrigerate 24 hours.

Remove the meat, untie it and slice. Place the liquids and all of the contents of the casserole in a blender and blend well. Remove to a mixing bowl and fold in the mayonnaise and capers, blending well. Arrange the meat slices on a serving platter and pour over the gravy. Let cool and then refrigerate. Serve cold. (Serves 6).


Egg Fritters with Mallow

8 eggs
1 cup fresh bread, with crusts removed, soaked in milk and squeezed dry by hand
3 Tbsp. mallow, chopped
2 Tbsp. basil, chopped
1 Tbsp. thyme, chopped
1/3 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
salt and pepper to taste
1 cup dry breadcrumbs
4 cups oil for frying

Hard boil 6 of the eggs. Drain, cool and shell the eggs.

Mix the bread with the mallow, basil, thyme and Parmesan cheese. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide the mixtureinto 6 equal portions and pat each portion into a circle. Place one hard boiled egg on each portion and wrap the eggs in the bread mixture.

Beat the remaining eggs in a shallow dish and into these dip the wrapped hard boiled eggs. Roll the eggs in the dried breadcrumbs, coating well.

In a deep skillet heat the oil to 350 degrees Fahrenheit (180 Celsius) and in this fry the fritters until golden (about 5 minute). Drain on paper towels, arrange on a serving plate and serve hot. (Serves 4 or 8).

© Daniel Rogov