There is no question but that Israeli wines are moving more and more in the direction of quality and sophistication. If there is a shadow lying across the Israeli wine industry it is connected to the possibility that because of the ongoing peace process in the area, all or part of the Golan Heights may revert to Syrian sovereignty in the near future. Under nearly any scenario this would mean that the Golan Heights Winery, clearly the leader in the Israeli wine world, would have to give up the soil and microclimates of the Golan which are ideal for the production of fine varietal grapes.

Even under the worst possible scenario however, this does not mean that the quality of Israeli wines would have to suffer, for no matter what the future of the Golan Heights, it is simply too late for Israeli wineries to return to producing the swamp of thick, sweet, unsophisticated wines that were once aimed primarily at the kosher market.

It is true that the volcanic basalt soil, the relatively cool climate and the night-day temperature differentials of the Golan Heights have proven ideal for the production of premium quality wine grapes. It is also true that the Heights offers a diversity of micro-climates broad enough to allow for the production of many different varieties of grapes. This does not, however, mean that other areas within Israel, especially within the hills of the Galilee region, will not prove equally well suited to the raising of high quality grapes. Even now, for example, some of the finest Cabernet Sauvignon grapes in the country come from vineyards in the Northern Galilee and fine Merlot is being grown in the Negev dessert.

As to the future of the Golan Heights Winery itself, some continue to hope that even after a transfer of land to Syria that the winery will be allowed to continue raise grapes there. Considering that Moslem law prohibits the raising of grapes for the purpose of making wine, this is a question that remains to be answered. Even if this is not the case, however, it is already known that the winery already receives some of its finest grapes from the Galilee. More than this, the Golan Heights Winery is is now at a stage of advanced negotiations with Kibbutz Yron to build a second winery, this one in the Galilee. The new winery, yet to be named, will be a cooperative venture, much as the existing winery is. Kibbutz Yron will have a certain level of sovereignty but the winemaking and, at least in the onset of the project, the sales and distribution network will be managed by the winemakers and staff of the present Golan Heights Winery. The goal of the new winery, which is expected to be operational by the harvest of 2001, is to produce only top quality wines, 90% of which will be from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes that have been planted in the Galilee, especially at Kibbutzim Yron, Malchia and Yiftach. The new winery is expected to process about 1,000 tons of grapes at its opening (about one million bottles). Whether this reflects optimism for a growing wine market or planning for a potential withdrawal from the Golan is not something that is discussed at the winery. What is clear, however, is that despite political pressures, the existing Golan Heights Winery now produces about 4.5 million bottles annually and is making moves to expand to 6 million bottles in its existing location.

While not even the most optimistic among Israelis would claim that the nation is producing wines at the level of those of the great Chateaux of Bordeaux or the finest estates of Burgundy, many respected wine critics concur that at least some Israeli wines can now compete easily with the best wines of California, Chili, Australia and others of the serious New World wine producing nations.

© Daniel Rogov