Most people somehow make a connection between the Holy Land and Heaven. That connection may or may not be logical, but within Israel as many people are concerned with Hell as they are with Heaven, and Israeli gastronomes are especially concerned with the question of what and how well or badly they will dine once they arrive in that warm place.

Even in Hell, people eat and in no place is the culinary life of Hell represented in greater detail than in the frescos that Luca Signorelli painted in the Cathedral at Orvieto in the 15th century. Before setting to work on his frescos, Signorelli devoted three years to reading nearly all of the works that had been written about Hell. He also consulted with church experts from Rome, Florence, Naples and Venice. Finally, based on writings as diverse in character as those of Homer and Dante and including the ideas of at least six different popes, Signorelli finally formed his mental picture and 500 years ago, set to work.

If one accepts Signorelli's interpretation, Hell is not nearly as unpleasant a place as some might think. In one of the frescos, for example, the Devil and three of his angels, Pasiel, Shaftiel and Chutriel are portrayed as seated at a large, exquisitely decorated table, there dining on huge platters of oysters and a gigantic platter of roast chickens. Also on the table, on what seem to be solid gold plates are a whole sturgeon, a roasted wild boar, and several large cheeses. Even the minor angels who are serving the Devil are portrayed as enjoying the meal, and some are seen drinking from silver wine glasses while others seem more intent on eating the fresh apples and oranges that are available in large straw baskets.

Most of the other residents of hell, regardless of whether they are being punished for pride, greed, envy or lust also seem to do well enough from the gastronomic point of view. It almost seems as if eternal damnation was divided into two broad segments - one involving punishment and the other dining and drinking. In the background of one large fresco, for example, several men and women are being whipped, boiled in oil or otherwise tortured, but, in the foreground others, obviously being given a respite from pain are dining on huge pieces of roast beef , a dish of camel stew and a swan that had been stuffed with eggs, all dishes that were popular during the Middle-Ages.

As shown in another of the frescos, it is clear that those who had violated the Sabbath or committed heresy were not allowed to eat quite as well as those who resided on the higher levels of Hell. In fact, one sees quite clearly that while murderers and rapists dine on lamb chops, artichokes and peaches, the diet of Sabbath violators was restricted to bowls of thin soup and a few slices of bread.

Signorelli reserves the worst culinary fate for those who were guilty of gluttony while they were alive, and in two separate frescos he portrayed these poor souls as dining exclusively on live eels, frogs, snails and uncooked rotten meat. Even worse, whereas at every other level of hell, the artist painted in glasses of wine, the gluttons seem to have nothing to drink except boiling oil.

Signorelli completed his work in 1498 but by that time Lorenzo de Medici, his patron had died and the new masters of the church did not especially approve of his frescos. The Archbishop of Florence, for example, accused Signorelli of "portraying Hell as far too cheerful a place ... not nearly frightening enough". The Bishop of Paris, on viewing the frescos, complained that he did not eat that well even on earth. The artist was ordered to replace ten of the frescos and was specifically instructed not to include any reference to food in his new paintings.

Of the original sixteen frescos, only six remain. Happily for those interested in either gastronomy or Hell, the artist's charcoal sketches have not been destroyed and can be viewed at the Uffizi Museum in Florence. The following recipe, a traditional Italian dish, was not devised in Hell, but was named after the Devil because of its fiery hotness.

Shrimp Fra Diavalo

24 large shrimp, peeled and cleaned
1 tsp. dried basil, crushed
1 tsp. hot paprika
1/2 tsp. each black pepper, dryed thyme and dried oregano
1/2 tsp. crushed hot red pepper
1/2 tsp. salt or more to taste
2 Tbsp. butter
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 1/2 tsp. garlic, chopped finely
1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce optional)
1 large tomato, peeled and diced coarsely
1/4 cup beer, at room temperature
cooked rice for serving (optional)

In a small bowl combine the basil, paprika, black pepper, thyme, oregano and salt. In a large heavy skillet combine the butter, olive oil, the mixed spices, garlic and Worcestershire sauce. Place over a very high flame and, as soon as the butter has melted add the tomatoes and then the shrimp. Cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Add the beer, lower the flame, cover and cook just until the shrimp are done (about 1 - 2 minutes longer). Remove from the flame. Serve hot, with rice if desired. (Serves 4).

This dish is ideally served with a well chilled dry white wine such as Chardonnay, a simple but well-made Chianti, or a lightly chilled red Beaujolais.

Note: This dish can be made with small lobsters if the lobsters are split in half lengthwise, sprinkled with olive oil and melted butter and baked in a hot oven for 18 minutes and then following the recipe as given.

To read part 2 of this series on "hell" ... click here

© Daniel Rogov