Even though it is located in the Caucasus region of the former Soviet Union, the Republic of Georgia has a style of cookery that has a closer kinship to that of the Middle East than to that of Russia.

Festive dinners start with a large variety of zakuski (hors d'oeuvres). Often set out-of-doors on a single table, hosts are valued by the length of the zakuski table they set. Cheeses, vegetables, pickled garlic cloves, and sprigs of coriander and tarragon sit alongside platters of smoked sturgeon, caviar, sliced hard sausages, pickled mushrooms and plums. And, because Georgians take enormous pride in the wines they produce at home, as many as twelve different kinds of wine may adorn the table. Vodka, drunk neat, ice cold and in a single gulp from tiny glasses is always available and, wealthier families serve the local version of champagne.

One of the things that gives Georgian cookery its unique flavor is the liberal use of fruits and nuts together with meats and poultry - walnut and plum sauces being favorites. The region also boasts an enormous variety of heavy but delicious breads that invariably vary in taste and texture from village to village.

The people are known for the quality of their cattle, goats, sheep and dairy products (including a large variety of yoghurts). Because pork and shellfish are not highly valued in Georgia, the Jews of the region could adopt to local culinary habits simply by separating dairy and meat products.

Several of the recipes below were given to me by the family of David Dhugeshvilli and others were adapted from the recipes of Marian Burros. By the way, if you are going to try Georgian sparkling wine, be sure to serve it VERY well chilled, in fact, almost frozen if you want it at its very best.

Chicken in Walnut Sauce

1 chicken, about 1 1/2 - 2 kilos
1 small onion
1 sprig each tarragon and parsley
olive oil as required
400 gr. walnuts, shelled and ground finely
6 Tbsp. white vinegar
1 medium onion, chopped finely
2 cloves garlic, chopped finely
1/4 cup coriander, chopped
hot paprika or several dashes of Tabasco, to taste
2 cups chicken stock
1/4 tsp. fenugreek
1/4 tsp, each turmeric and coriander

Wash the chicken under cold running water and then dry well. In the cavity of the bird place the whole onion, tarragon and parsley and then brush the skin with olive oil.

Place the chicken in a roasting pan and place in an oven that has been preheated to very hot. Immediately reduce the oven temperature to medium and roast the bird until it is tender (40 - 45 minutes).

In a skillet heat about 1 Tbsp. of olive oil and in this saute the chopped onion until it is translucent. Remove from the flame and add the remaining ingredients, mixing well. Serve this spice mixture in a sauceboat. (Serves 4).

Turkey with Apricot Stuffing

1/4 kilo dried apricots, pitted
1 cup port wine
2 cups burghul (cracked wheat)
1/4 kilo dried prunes, pitted and halved
1/4 cup butter or, for kashrut, parve substitute
2 large onions, chopped coarsely
2 stalks celery, without leaves, chopped finely
1 tsp. sage
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup pine nuts
1 cup beef stock
1 turkey, about 4 1/2 kilos, dressed

In a mixing bowl soak the apricots in the port overnight. With a slotted spoon remove the apricots and set aside. Reserve the wine.

In a separate bowl soak the cracked wheat in 4 cups of water for 2 hours and then drain well.

In a large heavy skillet melt the butter and in this saute the onion and celery until the onions are translucent. Add the cracked wheat and saute for 5 minutes longer. Season with the sage and salt and pepper to taste, add the prunes, apricots, pine nuts and stock and simmer, uncovered, for 20 minutes. With this mixture stuff the bird.

Truss the bird well and place on a rack in an oven that has been preheated to very hot. Immediately reduce the oven temperature to medium and bake, allowing about 25 minutes per pound (55 minutes per kilo), basting often with the wine and pan drippings. When the bird is done let cool for 10 minutes or slightly longer before carving. If desired, make a pan gravy from the drippings and serve in a sauceboat. (Serves 6 - 8).

Red Beans with Plum Sauce

1/2 kilo tinned or 4 cups cooked kidney beans
1 clove garlic
1/2 tsp. crushed, dried chili peppers
1 tsp. dried basil
1 tsp. minced coriander leaves
salt to taste
1/2 cup damson plum jam
about 2 Tbsp. wine vinegar

If using canned beans, strain the beans and rinse lightly under cold running water. Drain thoroughly and turn into a serving bowl. With a mortar and pestle or blender, crush the garlic together with the chili peppers, basil, coriander and a pinch or two of salt. Work to a smooth paste.

Rub the jam through a fine sieve and mix together with the herb paste, thinning with vinegar, a few drops at a time. Season the sauce to taste with salt and gently fold the sauce into the beans with a wooden spoon. Let stand at room temperature for 2 - 3 hours before serving. (Serves 6).

Cheese Bread

1 cup lukewarm milk
2 packages active dry yeast
1 Tbsp. + 1 tsp. sugar
about 4 cups of flour
125 gr. butter, softened
675 gr. cheddar or similar cheese
375 gr. feta or other tangy goat cheese
1 egg, lightly beaten
about 2 Tbs. melted butter

In a small glass mix together half a cup of the milk, the yeast and 1 tsp. of the sugar. Let stand at room temperature for 10 - 15 minutes and then add this mixture to the remaining milk.

Place 3 cups of flour into a large bowl and make a well in the center. Add the milk, remaining sugar and the softened butter. Stir with a rubber spatula until a firm dough ball is formed.

Turn the dough onto a floured work surface and knead for 10 minutes, adding flour as needed to prevent the dough from sticking. When the dough is elastic and no longer sticky, transfer to a greased bowl, turning the dough so that it is coated on all sides. Cover with a lightly dampened cloth and let stand in a warm place until doubled in bulk (about 1 1/2 hours).

Punch the dough down and let rise again until doubled in bulk (about 30 minutes).

Grate the Cheddar and crumble the goat cheese. Combine the two, add the egg and mix well.

Punch the dough down again and then roll out on a lightly floured surface to a circle about 50 cm. in diameter. Fold the dough in quarters and place the point of the dough in the center of a 23 cm. pan with sides about 5 cm high. Unfold the dough and let the excess hang over the sides.

Spoon the cheese mixture onto the dough and then pick up the excess dough hanging over the edges and pleat the dough over the cheese. Make sure all the pleats go in the same direction. Gather the ends of the dough in the center and twist into a small knob. Let stand for 10 minutes.

Brush the top of the dough with melted butter and bake on the centre shelf of an oven that has been pre-heated to 375 degrees Fahrenheit (190 Celsius). Bake until the bread is golden (about 1 hour). Remove from the oven and let cool in the pan before serving. Serve warm or at room temperature. (Serves 6).

© Daniel Rogov