Vertical tastings, that is to say sessions at which one tastes the same wine from a number of vintage years, are always rewarding because they offer the chance to follow a wine over its years of maturation. In addition to being able to compare the wines of vintage years, to see how they have developed over the years and to see how valid (or invalid) one's earlier predictions about those wines might be. Recently, at a tasting sponsored by the Golan Heights Winery (held at the King David Hotel in Jerusalem), I tasted the Cabernet Sauvignon wines in the winery's Gamla series for the years 1994 - 1998. The next day, in my own tasting room, I continued the tasting with the wines from 1993 - 1987. The 1998 wine has been bottled but not yet released, so one can count this an advance tasting. I had tasted all of the other wines on many occasions, but this was the first time that I made such an extensive vertical tasting. With the exception of the 1987 wine, which is now well past its prime, the wines scored between 86 - 90, putting them all in the range of very good to excellent.

1998 (Advance Tasting): Well balanced and complex, much in the Bordeaux style, this medium to full bodied wine has a core of currant, cherry, and light oak flavors and aromas that come together with a richness of depth that makes it delicious even now. Still tannic because of its youth but as the wine matures it will smoothen out and as it does, look for deeper herbal and tobacco flavors to develop. The wine is scheduled to be released in Spring of 2001. It will be delicious then but should store and develop nicely for another 5 - 6 years after that. Score 89+. (Tasted 23 Oct 2000)

1997: When first released in March, 2000, I wrote favorably about this wine but suggested that it was still on the young side and needed time in the bottle to develop. Even though only seven months have passed, that development is already apparent and this still tannic but eminently drinkable wine now shows lots of plums, cherries and spices overlaying nice hints of vanilla, cinnamon and tobacco. Medium to full bodied, well balanced and with flavors that linger nicely on the palate, the wine should store well for another 6 - 7 years. Score 89. (Tasted 23 Oct 2000)

1996: With plenty of tannins, now softening very nicely, this concentrated and well balanced wine is rich in flavors and aromas of black currants, black cherries and vanilla and tempting hints of eucalyptus and herbs. Drinking very nicely now but don't rush to finish off your supply as bottles should store very nicely for 3 - 4 years longer. Score 88+. (Tasted 23 Oct 2000)

1995: How nice it is to be proven right! When this wine was first released in January 1988, I wrote that it was "young enough to show rather firm tannins but well balanced, so the wine will level out comfortably in time". And how it has. Deep, fragrant and beautifully focused, this wine now shows layer after layer of red and black currants, stewed cherries and toasted oak. What seemed to be hints of tea and mint that made themselves felt when the wine was young have developed into equally appealing hints of cigar tobacco (laugh if you will but I thought of Montecristo #3), and eucalpytus. At its peak now and makes for lovely drinking now or in the next 2 - 3 years. My original score 88. Current score 89+. (Tasted 23 Oct 2000)

1994: A well made but somewhat soft wine that never excited me in its youth, but now at its peak and perhaps just before it begins to go down, very pleasing, that softness and roundness coming together with still fruity aromas and flavors (currants, black cherries, and a hint of cloves). Some will say that the wine lacks balance, but I do not agree, its relatively low acidity and very moderate levels of tannins actually balancing quite nicely indeed and giving a wine that is gentle, tempting and very drinkable indeed, perhaps not with large cuts of beef but very well with veal and lamb chops and Italian dishes such as saltimbocca. Drink now. My original score 84. Current score 86. (Tasted 23 Oct 2000)

1993: Fuller bodied than most of the Cabernets in this series, with excellent balance and still youthful currant, cherry, cedar wood and herbal flavors and aromas that linger nicely. Fast approaching its peak and right now delicious. Drink until 2002. Score 89. (Tasted 24 Oct 2000)

1992: Well balanced, medium to full bodied and with now smooth tannins and just enough acidity. Don't be upset if you confuse this wine with a truly fine Sangiovese, for as it has aged it seems to have assumed many of the traits of that noble variety. Currants, vanilla, plums and cigar-box, tobacco flavors and aromas come together very nicely in a wine that is now at its peak and fully ready for drinking now or in the next year or so. Score 88+. (Tasted 24 Oct 2000)

1991: Just a bit past its peak but still drinkable and enjoyable. Medium bodied, with a leaning towards lightness but still showing an attractive bouquet and flavors of black currants, cedar, cinnamon and mint, all of which linger nicely. Drink now or in the near future. Original score 88. Current score 86+. (Tasted 24 Oct 2000)

1990: A wine that continues to surprise me, for every time I taste it I predict its eminent demise and then it goes on and on seeming never to have reached its peak. All of which may be because in its youth this wine was more tannic and fuller bodied than Gamla wines are generally suipposed to be. Whatever, the wine now shows fine balance between acids and tannins, retains a concentrated flavor and a just barely browning deep purple color. With an aromatic freshness that belies its age, and flavors that linger on and on on the palate, I now refuse to guess when this wine will finally be "over the hill". Fortunately, I still have five bottles on hand and intend to open one a year. Hopefully, by 2005 I will be able to finally report that the wine is no longer worth drinking. In the meantime, if you are lucky enough to have any on hand, enjoy! Score 90+. (Tasted 24 Oct 2000)

1989: When first released in the early months of 1993, this wine was surprisingly ready to drink. What surprises is that even though the wine was far from "heavy", it has lasted nicely through the years and, even though it may be a bit beyond its peak now still shows its inherent good balance. Look for mature earthy flavors that now overlay the still rich blackcurrant nose but do drink quickly as the wine will probably fade rather quickly now. Score 88. (Tasted 24 Oct 2000)

1988: Heavy, even a bit ponderous when it was young, this wine smoothened out beautifully over the years and even now offers a luscious mouthful of fruity, tobacco and minty aromas. On the way down but still enjoyable. Drink in the very near future. Current score 87. (Tasted 24 Oct 2000)

1987: In its youth this wine had complex, ripe cherry, plum and raspberry flavors, all wrapped in a subtle texture. As it matured, let us say between 1992- 1997, its complexity was more apparent, the fine depth and structure giving it both sophisticated and simple pleasures. In a word, this was a delicious wine. I was thus saddened at a recent tasting to see that the wine is now past its peak and beginning to oxidize. The wine is still available at a few restaurants and is going for about NIS 480. I cannot recommend buying the wine today but if you happen to have any left on hand drink it in the near future and instead of being disappointed, reflect comfortably on the many years of pleasure it afforded. No longer scoreable. (Tasted twice, on 2 Aug and 24 Oct 2000 with consistent notes).

© Daniel Rogov