The livers of geese have been considered one of the world's most luxurious culinary delicacies since the time of the Caesars of Rome. Following are recommendations for a collection of restaurants, each of which prepares goose liver in a unique and delicious way. At each restaurant, one can make a light lunch of a single portion of goose liver or, if one prefers, to continue with other courses as well. The wines that will prove ideal with the goose liver dishes are the Muscat dessert wine of the Golan Heights Winery, the Vin Santo of Italian producer Antinori, or the Botyrtis Semillon of Australia's Yarra Ridge winery. Including a glass of one of these wines, portions of goose liver will vary from NIS 60 - 80 per person. Reservations are suggested at each of the restaurants.

Auberge Shulamit: Rehov David Shuv, Rosh Pina. Hungarian-style goose liver, fried, sprinkled over with paprika and served with onion jam. Tel: 06 6931485.

Roshfeld: 23 Shaul Hamelech Boulevard, Tel Aviv (in the Golda Center: The cold goose liver in a hot lemon-honey sauce served here is exquisite. Tel: 03 6094666.

Hess: Rehov HaMasger 4, in the industrial park of Ra'anana. Try especially the exquisite goose
liver pate made with plenty of Cognac and juniper berries. Tel: 09 7442180. Kosher.

Hippopotame: Rehov Yirmiahu 12, Tel Aviv. The grilled goose liver here is delicious but for a special treat try the escalope of goose liver with a Bechamel based sauce, artichokes and almonds. Tel: 03 5466348.

Mika: Rehov Montifiore 27, Tel Aviv. Goose liver served here in a dozen ways, all delicious but my own favorite is of escalopes of foie gras on aleek tart. Open daily 12:00 - 01:30. Light meals only served after 23:00. Evening reservations strongly recommended. One of the ten best restaurants in the country. Tel. 03 528-3255

Mishkenot Sha'ananim: In the Yamin Moshe quarter, Jerusalem. Traditional French preparations here, among the best are the pate de foie gras; the goose liver with strawberries; and the goose liver cooked in Armagnac. Open 12:00 - 15:00 and 18:00 - 24:00. Kosher but without a certificate. Tel: (02) 6254424.

Keren: Rehov Eilat 12, Tel Aviv. Every goose liver dish that chef Chaim Cohen prepares will be delicious but the ones that will take your breath away with its beauty and delicacy is his goose liver with vanilla sauce and his raviolis filled with mullard breast, goose liver and bacon.
Open for dinner daily 19:00 - 23:00 and for lunch Monday - Saturday 12:00 - 15:00. Tel: 03 6816565.

© Daniel Rogov