Every year, several days before the 25th of December, the cities of Jerusalem, Nazareth and Bethlehem begin to fill with Christian visitors from all over the world, most of whom are Protestants or Roman Catholics, who have come to celebrate Christmas in the Holy Land. The holiday is celebrated with prayers and joy on the part of local Christians and visitors alike, the Masses are televised and broadcast live to more than eighty countries, and the day afterwards, thousands of people make their way home. What many of the departing visitors do not realize is that the holiday is far from over, for in each of those cities, other groups are preparing for a Christmas which is still two weeks away. Unlike Roman Catholics and most Protestants who use the Gregorian Calendar, the members of the Greek Orthodox Church rely on the Julian Calendar, and for them the holiday celebrating the birth of Jesus falls during the first or second week of January. This year the Greek Orthodox Church will celebrate the holiday on the 8th of January.

Approximately 35,000 people, most of whom are Israeli Arabs and others who are residents of the city of Bethlehem in the Palestinian Authority belong to the Greek Orthodox Church and there are few more festive occasions for these people than Christmas. On the evening preceding the holiday, Greek Orthodox priests cut stately figures in their long black robes as they make their way in processions to their churches. In no place is the procession more colorful than in Bethlehem, where peeling church bells accompany the priests and their congregants as they make their way to the Church of the Nativity. Carrying sensors, colorful banners and large and small statues of the Virgin Mary and the infant Jesus, and chanting traditional prayers as they make their way through the marketplace, the priests make their way past donkeys carrying their loads, and others of the city residents for whom this is merely another workday.

The church, which was built on the site where Jesus was born, is one of the most revered sites of Christendom, and is maintained jointly by the Greek Orthodox, Armenian Orthodox and Roman Catholics. Accompanied by Gregorian chants and the pungent smell of incense that permeates the church, the priests and congregants make their way down the steps on either side of the altar to the grotto below. Traditionally considered the spot where Jesus was placed in his cradle, and where seventeen lamps burn day and night, it is here where the most devout prayers are uttered, not only to celebrate the miraculous birth, but in hopes for peace and prosperity for the following year.

More than three hundred of the priests and brothers who reside in the three cities that hold the most sacred of the relics of the church have come from Greece. Some are from major cities such as Athens, Salonica and Corfu, but even more have come from tiny villages scattered throughout the Greek mainland and islands. Because celebrating Christmas in the Holy Land is so important to the priests and monks, only a few return home to celebrate this holy day with their families. It is not uncommon, however, to find that the entire family of many of the priests will travel to join them in Israel. When this happens, the joy of the holiday is multiplied, and on Christmas day the women who have come prepare a festive meal, almost invariably of the favorite dishes of the priests they are visiting. Knowing that offering one's hospitality is an important part of the Christmas celebration, food is prepared in vast quantities, and by one in the afternoon, after all of the church services have been completed, the doors of the house are thrown open to all who come to share in the joy of the special Christmas meal.

Several years ago, when eighteen members of the family of Father Iannis came from the island of Corfu to celebrate Christmas with him in Jerusalem, I was invited to take part in a meal that consisted entirely of Greek dishes. The following were among my favorites, and each of the recipes is designed to serve 4 - 6.

Asparagus w Egg and Lemon Sauce
Asparagi me Avgolemono

24 large asparagus, fresh
1 Tbsp. olive oil
juice of 1 large lemon
1 cup avgolemono sauce, hot (recipe follows)
dill, chopped, for garnish

Trim the stems and cook the asparagus in boiling salted water with the lemon juice and oil added, just until tender. Lift out gently with a slotted spoon and let drain. Pour the avgolemono sauce over the asparagus, sprinkle with the dill and serve at once.

Avgolemono Sauce

6 egg yolks
juice of 2 lemons
1 cup warm but not hot chicken or beef stock
salt and pepper to taste

Beat together the egg yolks and lemon juice and add these to the stock. Over a low flame, stirring constantly, cook until the sauce has thickened. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper and serve hot. (Yields about 1 cup).

Bean Soup
Fassouladha

2 1/2 cups dried lima beans
1/2 cup olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped finely
2 medium carrots, chopped
1/2 cup celery, chopped
1 - 2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup tomatoes, peeled and chopped
1 Tbsp. tomato puree
1/2 tsp. each salt, sugar and pepper
4 cups chicken stock
3 Tbsp. parsley, chopped

Place the beans in a mixing bowl and pour over 4 cups of cold water. Cover and soak overnight.

In a large saucepan heat the oil and in this saute the onion, carrots, celery and garlic until the onions are translucent. Add the tomatoes, tomato puree, salt, pepper and sugar. Cover and simmer on a medium low flame for about 10 minutes. Add the beans, stock and the water in which the beans were soaked.

Cover and continue to simmer gently for 2 hours longer. Add 1 Tbsp. of the parsley and cook until the beans are tender (about 45 minutes). Sprinkle over with the remaining parsley and serve hot.

Herbed Fried Fish
Psari Tiganito me Saltsa

1/2 cup flour
1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper
2 eggs, well beaten with 2 Tbsp. water
750 gr. sole fillets
1/4 cup each olive oil and wine vinegar
3 - 4 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 tsp. each dried rosemary, oregano and paprika
lemon wedges and parsley for garnish

In a small mixing bowl combine the flour, salt and pepper. Dip the fillets first in the egg mixture and then in the flour, coating each piece well. Repeat this process 2 - 3 times and then shake off whatever excess adheres.

In a large skillet heat the oil and in this fry the fillets, several at a time, until golden brown. Set aside to drain on paper toweling. To the oil add the garlic, rosemary, oregano and paprika and, over a low flame scrape the bottom and sides of the skillet well, until the sauce begins to bubble. Pour the sauce over the fish and serve immediately garnished with the parsley and lemon wedges.

Braised Potatoes
Patates Spiros

1/4 cup olive oil
1 cup onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 or 2 large cloves garlic, chopped
4 medium to large potatoes, peeled and sliced
2 Tbsp. tomato paste
1/2 tsp. each salt, pepper and oregano
several drops Tabasco sauce
about 1 cup chicken stock

In a heavy skillet heat the oil and in this saute the onion and garlic until golden-brown. Add the potato slices, tomato paste, salt, pepper, oregano, Tabasco sauce and just enough stock to cover the potatoes. Bring to a boil and then reduce the flame. Simmer, uncovered, until the potatoes are tender (about 25 minutes).

Honey Cake with Nuts
Karidopitta

225 gr. very fine sugar
1/2 cup honey
juice of 1 lemon
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
225 gr. flour, sifted
1 tsp. baking powder
225 gr. walnuts, chopped
1/4 cup butter softened
4 eggs, separated, at room temperature

In a small saucepan heat 3/4 cup of water and in this dissolve half the sugar. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring regularly. Stir in the honey, lemon juice and half of the cinnamon and simmer, stirring for 5 minutes longer. Remove from the flame and let cool for 1/2 hour.

In a mixing bowl combine the flour, baking powder, half the nuts and the remaining cinnamon.

In another bowl cream together the butter and remaining sugar until light in color. To this mixture add the egg yolks, one at a time, beating well. Beat in the walnut mixture.

In yet another bowl beat the egg whites stiff and gently fold these into the nut and flour mixture. Transfer to a well greased baking tin about 8" (20 cm) square, sprinkle the top with the remaining nuts and bake in an oven that has been preheated to 180 degrees Celsius until a wooden toothpick placed in the center comes out clean (about 50 minutes). Remove the cake from the oven and cut into square or diamond portions in the baking tin. Pour the cooled syrup over and let stand, covered, overnight. Serve at room temperature.

© Daniel Rogov