Because pork and seafood are the most popular ingredients in many Greek dishes, one might think that it would be difficult to adapt Hellenic cuisine to the requirements of the Jewish communities within Greece and later, of those Greeks who immigrated to Israel. This was not the case, however, for Greek cookery has always had a wide latitude for culinary inventiveness. In this inventiveness, the the Jewish communities of Corfu and Thessaloniki did well, so well in fact that many originally Jewish recipes have become standard offerings in most Greek homes and restaurants.

One will do well to remember that the two keys to truly excellent Greek food (Jewish or not) are simplicity and conviviality. Cooking materials, methods and ingredients tend to be simple and not complex and this is one of the great strengths of the food of the people whether it is consumed in a luxurious taverna in Athens, a quay-side souvlaki joint on Cos or in the Tel Aviv home of Greek Israelis.

There are no Greek gastronomic encyclopedias and there are practically no formal rules for cooks. Improvisation is always in order, adding just a bit of this or of that always adding to the pleasure of the meal. Above all, whether in the preparation or the consumption, Greek cuisine should be pleasurable.

The following recipes, each of which I have prepared in my own kitchen on many occasions are designed to serve 4 - 6.

The Appetizer

Asparagus w Egg and Lemon Sauce
Asparagi me Avgolemono

24 large asparagus, fresh
1 cup avgolemono sauce, hot (recipe follows)
1 Tbsp. olive oil
juice of 1 large lemon
dill, chopped, for garnish

Trim the stems and cook the asparagus in boiling salted water with the lemon juice and oil added, just until tender. Lift out gently with a slottedspoon and let drain. Pour the avgolemono sauce over the asparagus, sprinkle with the dill and serve at once.

Avgolemono Sauce

6 egg yolk
juice of 2 lemons
1 cup chicken or beef stock
salt and pepper to taste

Beat together the egg yolks and lemon juice and add these to the stock. Over a low flame, stirring constantly, cook until the sauce has thickened. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper and serve hot. (Yields about 1 cup). Note: Greek adore this sauce and it can be put to good use in soups, in fish and lamb dishes and with salads.

The Soup

Bean Soup
Fassouladha

2 1/2 cups dried lima beans
1/2 cup olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped finely
2 medium carrots, chopped
1/2 cup celery, chopped
1 - 2 cloves garlic, chopped finely
1 cup tomatoes, peeled and chopped
1 Tbsp. tomato puree
1/2 tsp. each salt, sugar and pepper
4 cups chicken stock
3 Tbsp. parsley, chopped

Place the beans in a mixing bowl and pour over 4 cups of cold water. Cover and soak overnight.

In a large saucepan heat the oil and in this saute the onion, carrots, celery and garlic until the onions are translucent. Add the tomatoes, tomato puree, salt, pepper and sugar. Cover and simmer on a medium low flame for about 10 minutes. Add the beans, stock and the water in which the beans were soaked.

Cover and continue to simmer gently for 2 hours longer. Add 1 Tbsp. of the parsley and cook until the beans are tender (about 45 minutes). Sprinkle over with the remaining parsley and serve hot.

The Main Course and Vegetable

Herbed Fried Fish
Psari Tiganito me Saltsa

1/2 cup flour
1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper
750 gr. sole fillets
1/4 cup each olive oil
1/4 cup wine vinegar
2 eggs, well beaten with 2 tbs water
3 - 4 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 tsp. each rosemary, oregano and paprika
lemon wedges and parsley for garnish

In a small mixing bowl combine the flour, salt and pepper. Dip the fillets first in the egg mixture and then in the flour, coating each piece well. Repeat this process 2 - 3 times and then shake off whatever excess adheres.

In a large skillet heat the oil and in this fry the fillets, several at a time, until golden brown. Set aside to drain on paper toweling. To the oil add the remaining ingredients (except the parsley and lemon wedges) and, over a low flame, stirring, scrape the bottom and sides of the skillet well, until the sauce begins to bubble. Pour over the fish and serve immediately garnished with the parsley and lemon wedges.

Braised Potatoes
Patates Spiros

1/4 cup olive oil
1 cup onion, chopped
2 - 3 cloves garlic, chopped
4 medium to large potatoes, peeled and sliced
2 Tbsp. tomato puree
1/2 tsp. each salt, pepper and oregano
about 1 cup chicken stock
Tabasco sauce to taste

In a heavy skillet heat the oil and in this saute the onion and garlic until golden-brown. Add the potato slices, tomato puree, salt, pepper, oregano and just enough stock to cover the potatoes. Season to taste with Tabasco. Bring to a boil and then reduce the flame. Simmer, uncovered, until the potatoes are tender (about 25 minutes).

The Dessert

Honey Cake with Nuts
Karidopitta

225 gr. very fine sugar
1/2 cup honey
juice of 1 lemon
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
225 gr. flour, sifted
1 tsp. baking powder
225 gr. walnuts, chopped
1/4 cup butter, softened
4 eggs, separated, at room temperature

In a small saucepan heat 3/4 cup of water and in this dissolve half the sugar. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring regularly. Stir in the honey, lemon juice and half of the cinnamon and simmer, stirring for 5 minutes longer. Remove from the flame and let cool for 1/2 hour.

In a mixing bowl combine the flour, baking powder, half the nuts and the remaining cinnamon.

In another bowl cream together the butter and remaining sugar until light in color. To this mixture add the egg yolks, one at a time, beating well. Beat in the walnut mixture.

In yet another bowl beat the egg whites stiff and gently fold these into the nut and flour mixture. Transfer to a well greased baking tin about 8" (20 cm) square, sprinkle the top with the remaining nuts and bake in a medium oven until a wooden toothpick placed in the center comes out clean (about 50 minutes). Remove the cake from the oven and cut into square or diamond portions in the baking tin. Pour the cooled syrup over and let stand, covered, overnight. Serve at room temperature.

© Daniel Rogov