Daniel Rogov's
Haifa and the North Restaurants

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Last Updated: 5 October, 2003

Restaurant Rating Type Prices
Aluma:
Cvish Tarsicha, Cfar Vradim. Tel 04: 9574477
To be re-evalued French Provencal Moderate
Located not far from Ma'a lot, on the border between the Arabic village of Kfar Tarshicha and Kfar Vradim, with a decor that intelligently combines touches from Arabic, Mediterranean and French Provencal cultures, with white plastered walls, country-style wood furnishings, and an appealing view of the nearby hills, the decor is comfortable and appealing. My last meal here was about three months ago, and I was delighted. Unfortunately, since then there have been two changes in chefs and the restaurant is now in a state of flux. I will return and re-evaluate the restaurant in the near future.

Auberge Shulamit:
Rehov David Shuv, Rosh Pina. Tel. 04 6931485.

** French-Country Moderate - High
Set in a lovely building in old Rosh Pina, this charming place goes from strength to strength. A warm greeting, an abundance of plants and freshly cut flowers, the well-polished heavy wood tables and a variety of wine racks give the first clues that here one has wandered upon the most sophisticated culinary aspects of country-living. Start off with the goose liver prepared in the Hungarian style, the vine leaves filled with a mixture of lamb, onions, rice and pine nuts, The excellent meatballs made in a rose colored sauce or the shrimps in a creamy Roquefort cheese dressing. Then, because they smoke their own meats here, go on to either the smoked goose breast (my own favorite), trout or sausages that are served with country-style Dijon mustard with excellent sauerkraut that is made in the German style with juniper berries and caraway. Equally good bets are the chicken livers in a thick orange sauce, trout fillets in white butter sauce, the chicken wings in a sauce of soya, brandy and sugar; and the grilled lamb chops. Desserts are good - try specially the apple tarte Tatin, possibly the best you will find in the country and the candied chestnuts. The wine list is excellent, the service is remarkably pleasant and overall this is a place that cannot help but please. If an overnight outing is in the cards, consider the attractive guest rooms here. Open daily from 12:30 - 23:00. Evening reservations suggested.
Barcarola: Atir Yeda St, Industrial Area of Cfar Saba. (09) 766-9696. *** Bar-Restaurant Moderate - Expensive
Chef Itay Shalev who formerly delighted u at Provence ba Galil and Shalev Ba Ya'ar in the northern parts of the country has is now doing an excellent job of pleasing diners in this spacious, laid-back atmosphere. Among the best first courses are several shrimp offerings - one of a tomato gazpacho served in a martini glass with a bit of labane on the bottom of the glass, two lightly spicy Asian shrimps floated in the center and with a dash of yoghurt added for color and flavor contrast, and another of shrimp coated with felafel mix served with a light and lemony za'atar flavored aioli sauce, and yet another in which warm shrimps are served with a tomato and smoked mango salad, the mango adding a much welcomed sweet touch. The combination in the dishes of French, Spanish, Far Eastern and Mediterranean culinary influences cannot help but remind us that Shalev is a chef who enjoys seeking out the precise limit of what we will find enjoyable and what will push us away. In each of these cases the dishes were as much an attraction for the eye as for the palate.

Another good bet as a first course is the chicken liver that is wrapped in Swiss chard with the terrine hollowed out and filled with shallots and apple chutney. If goose liver is you passion don't miss the version in which the liver is treated to a vanilla flavored wine sauce. Set on a summer salad with just a hint of balsamic vinegar and served with a small poached pear, the dish is brilliant. Main courses well worth considering are the pork fillet with tamarindi sauce and the mullard breast that is served with a tomato flavored sauce of butter and concentrated stock. Desserts are worth exploring. Moderate to expensive. Worth a special trip. Sun - Thurs 12:00 - 16:00 and 20:00 - 01:30; and Fri and Sat 20:00 - 01:30.

Bat Ha'eycar (The Farmer's Daughter) HaRishonim 21, Metula. Tel (04) 6997177
** French-Mediterranean Country Moderate
Set in the late 19th century country home that was once the home of the grandparents of the present owners and with stone walls and a once fortified courtyard that was meant to ward off marauders, this visual treat is as much a slice of local history as it is a restaurant. Best of the opening courses are the grilled eggplant with cheese and cream sauce, and fresh mushrooms with honey and soya sauce. As main courses consider the chicken served with grilled sweet peppers and a rich, just sweet enough brown sauce made special by being enriched with fresh dates and the succulent mullard breast that is smoked over cherry wood. Country style in every way and, because the Upper Galilee seems to inspire a passion for ice cream, close your meal out with the pleasant date ice cream parfait. As in others of the places in the Upper Galilee, this is also a good choice for visiting with children (especially for lunch or an early dinner) who can enjoy themselves by making as much noise as they like as they explore the spacious courtyard and not by disturbing other diners. Open daily 10:00 - 24:00.
Beit Rona
Moshav Kerem Ben Zimra. (053) 805349
**
Not so much a retaurant as it is a country-style culinary escape. Located on the closed terrace of a private home, the dining area of this rural escape offers a panoramic view that takes in wadis, low hills and mountains and a setting so rural that wild goats and boars sometimes make it a regular place of call. Amidst this simple but enchanting countrified splendor, it is perfectly acceptable that the tables, chairs and décor are without pretense. In fact, the very simplicity of the place adds enormously to its charm.

What will be served on any given day is determined by which herbs the garden yields that morning, what cuts of meat most appealed during the cook's visit to the neighboring markets, and the mood of the season. A good chance that your meal will open with individual plates that include meatballs in which lamb, veal and leeks had been finely chopped before being assembled and deep fried; crisp crostini with an excellent black olive tapenade; and slices of goose breast that had been wrapped around plums and cooked in a Muscadel sauce. Also good sweet pepper tartlets in cream sauce and a fresh salad of coriander and pine nuts and do not skip the chicken consommé if it is offered on the day of your visit. As main courses you will not go at all wrong with the lamb osso buco with root vegetables or the sirloin of veal. Desserts are simple but delicious. As in many small country inns and restaurants, the first courses and soup that make their way to the table are determined entirely by the chef. Only when it comes to the main courses is there a choice from two or three offerings. Prices are moderate. Open daily but advance reservations are required. Tel 053 805349.

Black Steer:
At the Rosh Pina Intersection, Rosh Pina. Tel. 04 6938366
** Meat (South American) Moderate
Like its twin in Herzliya, this is an unabashedly mass-market restaurant, with no pretensions at culinary greatness but with what seems to be the honest desire to provide South-African style, mostly meat dishes at reasonable prices. The greeting you will get on entering is genuinely warm and the service, while not overly professional, is friendly and responsive. Best of all, most of the dishes I sampled were great fun to eat. The genuine South African Boere Wors sausage is fatty, coarse, vulgar and absolutely delicious; the buffalo wings (spiced chicken wings) are not at all South African but they are great fun, especially when eaten with the fingers; and the steaks, coated with house barbecue sauce before being grilled are juicy and full of flavor. The fried onion rings are definitely worth trying as a side dish. Open Sunday - Thursday from 12:00 - 23:00 and on Fridays and Saturdays from 12:00 - 24:00.
Chavat Bat Ya'ar:
Mitspe Amuka. Tel. 04 6921788
** Steaks and Meat Moderate
This charming ranch, exquisitely situated in the hills overlooking the Galilee, features horseback riding and jeep trips. The ranch also has an excellent steak house. The rustic, almost all wood building that houses the restaurant fits in perfectly with its mountain environment. The wood tables and benches, an antique pot-bellied stove, large windows with a view that takes in the entire Galilee and the Golan Heights, and a host of brass and copper lamps and bricabrac all give the nice feeling that there will be nothing pretentious in the cooking here. There are light offerings on the menu but it becomes immediately clear that this is primarily a place for men and women who admire good steaks. The steaks are American cut, that is to say, there are T-Bones, sirloins and rib steaks and these can be ordered in sizes from anywhere from 225 grams to 750 grams. Excellent beef, charred on the outside and cooked just to the degree desired, and served with large baked potatoes, these can be an ideal meal for a day in the country. One hint - when you drive up and see one or more busloads of tourists, drive on, for when the busses arrive the level of the service falls proportionately. Open daily from 11:00 - 23:00 or later.
Dag-Dagan:
On kibbutz Cheftzibah. Tel. 04 6534359
* Fish Reasonable
The place that gave simplicity its meaning, this may be one of the noisiest, most unsophisticated and most aesthetically unattractive restaurants in the country. Despite this, this is a must place to dine when in the Upper Galillee because because the trout, pink trout and salmon, all of which are raised on the kibbutz that owns the restaurant, are superb. Grilled, with nothing more than a dash of fresh lemon; smoked and served hot or cold they are exquisite; and served "au bleu", sprinkled with vinegar and then rapidly boiled in a highly seasoned concentrated soup stock and served with melted butter or Hollandaise sauce. I also discovered a way to avoid the restaurant itself - all one need to is have their fish served on a tray, wander outdoors and find the nearest quiet spot under the trees or on the bank of the river, there to have the picnic par excellence. Bring your own wine for your picnic. Open daily from 08:00 - about 18:00.
Diana:
Rehov Paul VI, Nazereth. Tel 04 6572919.
** Middle-Eastern Reasonable - Moderate
Pleasant simplicity is the keyword here but the service is always friendly and the food always fresh and tasty. Stay largely with traditional dishes. For starters, the tabbouleh, fatouche (bread salad), humous and other salads are good bets and for main courses consider the kebabs, shishliks, lamb chops and shrimps in garlic-butter sauce. Open daily 12:00 - 24:
El Zeituna. Barclay's
Bank 38 (Near the old Shuk), Nazereth: Tel. 04 6455729.
** Palestinian Cuisine Moderate
Set on the second floor of a beautifully restored old residential building, this charming establishment combines tradition and elegance with a genuinely warm greeting and good service. All of the mezes (first courses) are good but the tabbouleh and the baked eggplant in tchnia are especially rewarding. Go on to baked herbed chicken, any of the lamb dishes or the herbed shrimps. For dessert the mahlabi is de rigueur. Open Monday - Saturday 13:00 - 23:00.
Elbabor:
on the Wadi Ara Road at the Ein Ibrahim Junction. Tel. 04 6572919.
*** Middle-Eastern Reasonable
With its menu laded with dishes most of which originated in Syria and Lebanon, its thick stone walls, arabesque arches, colorfully painted framed quotations from the Koran, an abundance of copper and bronze bric-a-brac, and an artificial waterfall taking up one interior wall, this is a restaurant that could exist just as comfortably in Damascus, Aleppo or Amman. Meals here start automatically when a meze of twenty or more dishes is presented. Among the best of the these were smoky eggplant and onion; parsley rich tchina; chunks of eggplant that had been fried and then spooned over with tchina; cauliflower that had been finished in the oven with tchina; a tabbouleh salad made special by the addition of more than the usual amount of hot pepper; and remarkably thick and just sour enough country-style labane. Equally good were thick, crisp burghul coated kubbeh filled with beef and pine nuts; a generous portion of excellent humous; and three kinds of burreks, pastries filled in one case with potatoes, in another with beef and in yet another with vegetables. Forget Cola, Kinley and any of the other carbonated soft drinks that are offered here and treat yourself to as many pitchers as you like of the icy-cold, refreshing and delicious lemonade that are available. For main courses (if you still have "room") continue with the roast mutton, the siniyah of baked ground meat and tchina, the grilled chicken livers or the kebabs, all of which will please. Keep in mind that portions here are large enough to be shared by two. Open daily 09:00 - 24:00.
HaKdira Shel Noga (Noga's Casserole)
Moshav Beit Sha'arim (On the Haifa-Nazereth Road) Tel: 04 983-0730.
**/*** French Country Style Moderate - High
In an absolutely charming and completely countrified setting that might have come out of Nikolai Gogol's description of an 18th century Russian inn, this is a place that offers country style cuisine without a single note of falsity. Ideal for either nobility or peasants, a place with immeasurable charm and food that is always a joy to eat. As first courses consider the black raviolis filled with Roquefort cheese and nuts in a well made cream and garlic sauce; the chunky French country style pate wrapped in bacon; the crepes filled with crabmeat and leeks; the zucchini flowers willed with herbed chopped meat that are served in a gentle but flavor-filled tomato sauce; and even the thin slices of steak that are wrapped and rolled about green onions and served with a cream, mustard and pistachio sauce, all of which are excellent.

Take a break to stroll in the gardens and fields and then continue with quail filled with chopped goose breast and liver in a cider and mustard sauce (a dish that describes the sensation of food that "melts in the mouth"); the country-style spare ribs; or the sea bream served on root vegetables, all accompanied by pumpkin gnocchi and a well made chili and coconut sauce. As I often do (no apologies), I suggest skipping the dish based on ostrich fillet. Best bets for desserts are the creme brulee and the three layered parfait of halvah and white and brown chocolate. Unbeatable prices during the weekday lunch hour (12:00 - 16:00) but still surprisingly moderate prices in the evenings. Worth a special trip. Open daily 12:00 - 24:00.

Ha Neshika
Rehov HaMeyasdim 37, Zichron Ya'akov (04) 6390133
*** French Provencal Moderate - Expensive
Situated off the main street of Zichron Ya'akov "HaNeshika" ("The Kiss") is a restaurant so true to its countrified roots that no attempt at all has been made to hide that it occupies what was not all that long ago a farmhouse. Most pleasing of all is that chef Ronen Raviv shows not a single sign of becoming complacent and continues to present a dishes that manage very nicely indeed to combine the sophistication of haute cuisine with a generous hint of 18th century French country cooking.

Among my own favorite first courses are the thick country style sausages and a generous slice of country style pate, all just fatty and peppery enough, the sausages fried so that they were crisp on the exterior and deliciously soft on the interior and the intentionally chunky, almost coarse pate absolutely bursting with flavor. Equally tempting are grilled coquilles Saint-Jacques cooked under the grill and treated to a gentle mustard and ginger sauce, and the potato gnocchi enriched with mozzarella cheese and served with piquant mushrooms all on a bed of crisply cooked green beans. Nor should one ignore the shrimps in herbed coconut milk or the veal carpaccio on a bed of burghul. As main courses, the pork stew of shoulder and breast of pork is unbeatable and the saddle of lamb on a bed of Jerusalem artichokes and lentils runs a close second in excellence. Dessert pastries (strawberry tarte flavored with cardamon, a tarte in the Tatin style but with half apples and half pears and the citrus tart) are excellent.

A small but good wine list but no don't hesitate to bring your own fine bottle with you. Service is casual but excellent and prices, which range from moderate to expensive represent very good value for money. Worth a special trip! Open Mon - Sat 12:30 - 14:30 and 19:00 - 23:00.

The Herb Farm on Gilboa.
HaGilboa. Tel. 04 6531093.
*** Country Style Moderate
Simple but pleasant country style cuisine in a lovely wood building (if the weather is good be sure to take a table on one of the large terraces in order to enjoy the exquisite view of Mount Gilboa and the surrounding countryside). Among best bets are the pumpkin soup with apples and sour cream, green salad with fresh herbs and a very well made vinaigrette sauce, lamb ossobuco served with couscous and the somewhat American, somewhat French style apple pie. Open Monday - Saturday 13:00 - 23:00.
In Rafi's House:
in Beit Professor Mor, Atar ha Shachzor, old Rosh Pina. Tel 04 6936192.
** Argentinian Moderate
Set off a cobblestone path in restored Rosh Pina, surrounded by trees and lying comfortably in the shadow of the low mountains that rise behind this 19th century village, there is nothing fancy or pretentious about "Ba Bayt Shel Rafa" but thick walls, Arabesque arches and the lovely view give this charming place a quiet and intimate touch. Excellent starters are the beef filled empenadas and the cheese-crusted cannelonis filled with chopped spinach and sweetbreads. As a main course don't miss the sinfully good assado style veal cassoulet that contains plenty of meat (including excellent chorizo sausages), white potatoes, sweet potatoes and peas. Another good bet is the lamb casserole with celery, lemon and rosemary. Open daily 12:30 - 23:30.
Jacko:
Rehov haDekalim 12, Haifa. Tel. 04 8626639
** Fish and Seafood Reasonable - Moderate
This super-simple eatery has been charming clients in Haifa for about 15 years. Stay with the simple things of life here. The baby fried squid, the large grilled shrimps in their shells, the deep fried red mullets, and any of the grilled or fried fish can make for a lovely meal, especially when accompanied by cold beer. Open Sunday - Thursday 12:00 - 23:00, Fridays and Saturdays 12:00- 18:00.
Jascala:
In the Village of Jish-Gush Chalav, Upper Galilee. Tel. 04 6987762
*/** Middle-Eastern Reasonable
This is the kind of simple village restaurant at which you can feast on the kinds of dishes that gave Middle-Eastern dining its good name. As is traditional, a few moments after being seated your table will be laded with a variety of dishes to make up your meze or starting courses. Among the best offerings - the fattouche salad in which pieces of crisply toasted pita bread that are soaked in lemon juice are tossed together with coarsely chopped cucumber, tomatoes, onion, parsley, coriander and mint; the thick, fresh humous; the goats' milk labane; and the endives cooked in olive oil and served with pine nuts and lemon. All of this is merely a prelude, so continue with small squash that are steamed and were then served with a simple but rich white sauce; rice filled grape leaves, served in the style that some say is Greek, others claim for Turkey and yet others for Lebanon, in a lemon rich chicken stock; and the tabbouleh salad so appealing to the eye that it seems a shame to spoil its charm by eating it. If you still have the heart for main courses, best bet are the shishbarak , a dish made by filling balls of lamb with a mixture of mushrooms and onions; the sambusc (fried pastry shells filled with vegetables); meat-filled, deep fried Syrian style kubbeh. Beer is a good choice as a beverage. When traveling through the Galilee, this is a place not to be missed. Open Monday - Saturday from 08:30 - 23:00 and on Sundays from 17:00.
Ma'ayan haBiera:
Rehov Natanson 4, Haifa. Tel. 04 8623193. Central
*** European Moderate
Located in the same building since 1962, this is a place whose walls probably saw their last coat of fresh paint about a decade ago, whose tables and chairs are so shaky one wonders how they continue to stand, and where Informality reigns supreme. Diners take places at whatever table happens to have an empty place, none of the staff members ever seem to be standing still and loud voices are the rule and not the exception as people call out their requests to whichever waiter who chances to be nearby. All of the dishes here are country-style, having their roots in places as diverse in character as the Mediterranean Basin, Russia, the shtetls of Eastern Europe and the Maghreb. Every dish is served in a remarkably generous portion and, to my great pleasure, every dish I have ever eaten here was excellent. The eggplant salad is made special by the addition of an ample amount of garlic and what I think is a hint of tumeric; the ikra (some call it taramasalata) has plenty of lemon and is not the least bit oversalted; and the Jewish style chopped liver had so much goose fat in it that it made me sigh with pleasure. For main meat dishes try the pastrami and the beef ribs, both of which are as good as you will fine anywhere in the world, and, if they are available on the day of your visit, the rabbit or the grilled suckling pig. As a side dish, do not miss verenekis, traditional dumplings from the Jewish kitchen, that come in two versions, some filled with meat and some with potatoes and both of which are served with plenty of fried onions that are cooked in goose fat. Open daily 10:00 - about 17:00.
Missedit haKevas:
On the main street of Dahliat alKarmel. Tel 04 8393510.
** Druse/Middle-Eastern Reasonable - Moderate
A genuinely warm welcome awaits in this not-at-all pretentious but comfortable eatery where dishes based on lamb and mutton are the specialty. Start off with the rice filled vine leaves, tabbouleh and other salads and continue with the lamb kebabs, mutton stew, leg of lamb with rosemary, and herbed grilled mutton chops. Open daily 10:00 - 22:00.
Nechalim:
Gan HaTzafon Shopping Center, Hurshat Tal Road, Kiryat Shmona. Tel 04 6904875.

**/*** French Country Style Moderate
A pleasant and rewarding dining surprise tucked away in a commercial shopping center. Start with the very good antipasto platter of which the best offerings are eggplant rolladas with goats chese, leeks cooked in red wine, mushrooms in vinegar, lightly marinated red and green peppers and slivers of sweet potato fried in herbed oil. For more formal first courses, you won't go wrong with the mussels in a butter, onion and white wine sauce, the cold calamari in a ginger, soya and garlic sauce or the fried goose liver in a red wine sauce. Among most tempting main courses are the entrecote in either pepper or red wine sauce, the veal sirloin in a sage butter sauce, the four-cheese lasagna. Prices are surprisingly reasonable and the service is good. Dine in the formal dining room if you will or when weather permits on the absolutely charming broad grass lawn that leads to the HaTsbani river below. Open Sunday - Friday 12:00 - 17:00 and 18:00 - 23:00 and on Saturday from 12:00 - 23:00.
Ocean: Rehov Maskit 30, Herzliya Pituach. Tel (09) 524-1219 ** Seafood Moderate
Uncluttered, attractive and semi-formal, offering seafood dishes that will bankrupt no-one. Open with the blue crab soup with a succulent whole crab or the tartare of red tuna in a piquant lemon and oil sauce, all tossed with small cubes of mango or the coquilles St. Jacques sautéed in brown butter. As main courses consider the shrimps cooked with tequila and Tabasco or the seafood paella which comes with a generous portion of shrimps, clams, mussels, calamari and crab meat. For dessert consider the semi-fredo of nougat or the crème brulee. A simple but appropriate wine list and good service add to the charm of the places. Prices are moderate.

Octagon:
Nahalal (on the road from Kiryat Tivon-Beit Lechem ha Galilit). Tel (04) 6415333.

** Steak House/Cafe Moderate
Surprising and comfortable sophistication in the countryside. An attractive setting (might you guess from the name that the restaurant is in an eight-sided building?) with an even more attractive view and dishes many of which will please. Among best first courses are the roast beef with cream and mustard sauce, mushrooms filled with sauteed herbs or with Roquefort cheese; an excellent pastry in which layers of herbed potatoes and goat's cheese come together nicely (ignore the wild berry sauce because even though it is good it tends to hide the richness of the other ingredients). For main courses, the steaks are very good bets (the mustard and pepper sauce is a good choice), but my own favorite was of the hamburger with a layer of melted Camembert at its heart. Good desserts, responsive service and a small but appropriate wine list. Open Monday - Saturday 12:00 - 24:00.
The Old Man and The Sea,
6 Ben Gurion, Haifa. Tel: (04) 850-7777
** Fish and Seafood Reasonable - Moderate
Sea blue stained glass windows, a few nautical ropes, imitation portholes, and the ship's lanterns that provide lighting are nothing if not kitsch but this is forgivable here because the service is truly excellent and the fish and seafood dishes you will receive are great fun to eat. Open with a selection from the self-service antipasti table, some of the best bets from which are the first boiled and then fried in butter Jerusalem artichokes, the whole heads of cooked, lightly marinated fennel, the potato salad the roasted garlic cloves and the fried, breaded cauliflower. (Give the pasta salad a miss). For main courses consider the shrimps in tomato sauce, the shrimps cooked perfectly and served in a piquant, lightly chunky and well herbed tomato sauce or the good soups (the one I enjoy the best is a cream soup based on fish stock in which you will find an abundance of shredded crab meat and calamari rings). A simple but acceptable wine list and good closing coffee but with the exception of a really good creme brulee, the desserts are not special. Prices are moderate to reasonable throughout the day but the business lunches are especially good deals. Open daily 12:00 - 22:30.
Pagoda: On the Lido Beach, Tiberias. Tel 04 6725513 ** Far Eastern Reasonable - Moderate
Westernized but fun Chinese, Thai and Japanese dining either indoors or on the large terrace with a warm welcome, responsive service on water's edge and with an exquisite view of the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee). Don't hesitate to order one of the "combination menus", keeping in mind when you do order that portions here are huge. Start off with the Thai-style tam yam soup with slices of chicken breast and just hot and sweet enough flavors imparted from the light tomato flavored stock or the nicely sweet coconut flavored stock, also with julienned strips of chicken breasts. Continue with the crisp and tasty vegetable filled eggrolls that are served with a variety of sauces. As main courses consider the delightfully spicy hot lemon chicken that is coated with a crispy batter or the crisp slices of goose meat, these coated in the flaky tempura style. Don't skip the good fried rice and the salad of red and green peppers, bean sprouts and cucumbers in a light vinegar and rice-wine sauce or the tempting noodles with vegetables. A good bet for lunch or dinner when in the area of the Kinneret and a very good bet if accompanied by children. Prices are reasonable - moderate. Open Sun - Thurs 12:00 - 23:00.
Rosemarine:
Moshav Beit Hillel, Upper Galilee. Tel: (04) 5281378
**/*** Country Style Moderate
In a simple but appealing wood building with a pastoral view and an eclectic menu featuring dishes as French or Italian as they are country-style Mediterranean. Among the charms here are that the herbs used generously in many of the dishes are grown locally and the meats are smoked on the premises. Meals open with a generous antipasti, of which best tastings are squash in yoghurt, white bean salad with tarragon and mint, Bulgarian cheese with za'atar, peeled red peppers in a light balsamic vinaigrette and country style liver pate. Very best of the first course offerings is a salad of mallow (chubeza in Hebrew) with a peppery grapefruit sauce. Some people call mallow "the food of the poor" but the dish is a treat. Very good bets for main courses are the smoked goose breast in a lightly sweet-sour pear and apple sauce and the various steaks (remind the waiter at least twice that you want your steak medium-rare).

For lunch or early dinner, an excellent place to visit with children who can dine on pasta or burgers and then entertaining themselves by roaming in the adjoining fields with the horses, ducks and geese that are everywhere to be found. Prices are moderate. Open daily 12:00 - 24:00.

Sahara
Behind the petrol station at the entrance to Kfar Na'im, on the Afula-Tiberias Road. Tel: (04) 6425959.
**
Traditional Arab Moderate
Imagine, if you will, driving along and suddenly coming across a dessert castle so unlikely that you expect to see Gene Wilder, costumed as Beau Geste and his cohort of zany French Foreign Legionnaires standing on the turreted roof waiting to either greet or fight you off. Call it Disney-like, kitsch or hyperreal as you like, but moat and all (with gold fish and even a large turtle swimming in it), this is precisely the building that was built to house "Sahara". And the best part of the joke is that the building is actually appealing. Sandstone walls, lots of wood filigree, handsome fabrics and a warm greeting come together nicely.

As is traditional in most Arab restaurants, meals open with a large meze. The green tchina is rich with finely chopped parsley and dill; the thick humous is served with whole chick peas; a salad made up entirely of chopped fresh herbs with nothing more on it than lemon juice and good olive oil; the thick, creamy and just lemony enough and the piquant Arabic salad are all good, even excellent. The best first course, however, is undoubtedly the baba ghanouzh, a smooth combination of fried eggplant, onion, parsley mixed together with tchina, salt, lemon juice and pine nuts that will woo you completely. As a main course you won't go at all wrong with the delicious muchmar, a dish widely agreed to be indigenous to the rural Arabs of the northern plains of Israel. Made by marinating Cornish game hens in lemon juice and olive oil and then cooking them over hot charcoals, the finished dish is served with potatoes and yoghurt, everything spread over a large pita. As lovely as were the chicken and the sauce, the best part came in finishing off the pita which had absorbed all of the flavors of the drippings. Consider as well the good kebabs and the mutton cooked in the clay taboon oven. Skip the desserts. Worth a visit if you are driving by. Open daily 12:00 - 24:00. Moderate prices.

Siam:
Hamat Gader. Tel. (04) 6659933.
* Thai Moderate
Set over the hot sulphur springs of the Golan Heights in a wood building that calls to mind Japan more than it does Thailand, this Disney-like restaurant serves distinctly Westernized but still pleasant Thai food. As appetizers consider the corn friters; the mini pastries filled with ground beef and peanuts; and the mixture of chicken and tofu seasoned nicely with coriander and sesame seeds. The chicken soup, flavored with lemon grass and coconut milk and the spiced fish soup are pleasant. As main courses consider the red Saint Peter's fish in tamarindi sauce; the pastry shell of chicken cooked in coconut milk, coriander and a modicum of hot pepper; and the beef that is steamed together with coconut milk and vegetables. Open Monday - Saturday from 12:00 - 24:00 and Sunday 12:00 - 15:00. Kosher.
Tzela ha Tavor:
in the commercial center of Kfar Tavor. Tel: 04 6769966.
* International Moderate
Located in the shadow of Mount Tavor, and with a naive, almost innocent appeal, this restaurant is an oasis in the Galilee. The cold roast beef on a bed of raw spinach, the fried goose liver in a tartar style sauce, and the fried eggplant with cheese are excellent starters. Among the best main courses are the pan fried steaks, served in their skillets with simple but good sauces, the large hamburgers, and the chicken-based Cordon Bleu. To add to the simple charm of the place, the service is friendly and responsive and the wine list is surprisingly good. Open daily 12:00 - 24:00.
Uri Burri:
Lighthouse Square, Old Acco. Tel 04 95552212.
***/**** Fish and Seafood Moderate
Uri, the owner and more-or-less chef at this simple but charming and remarkably friendly place (formerly long established in Nahariya) is one of the most charming restaurant owners you will ever meet and he takes enormous pride in pleasing those who come to dine with him. Your best bet at this lovely place is to ignore the menu, to invest a few minutes in talking with Uri and then, after hearing what are the freshest and best fish he has, throwing yourself on his mercy and letting him bring whatever treats to the table he decides are in order. Among the very opening courses you will sample are the seviche of amberjack fish, the fresh anchovy fillets and the raw shrimps in a delightful lemon, oil and hot pepper sauce. Go on to the fish soup made special by the addition of coconut milk, lemon and lime peel, and then continue with baby calamaris, grilled amberjack steaks with an option of two sauces (a chunky tartare sauce and one of a richly herbed, lightly hot lemon sauce), baby soles so tender they will virtually melt in your mouth, and either crab meat or coquilles St jacques, both of which are served in a delicately curry flavored cream sauce. For dessert try the mint and cinnamon flavored home made ice creams. For the truly brave of heart, consider the eleven course degustation menu. Whatever you decide, I promise that you won't go wrong here. The wine list is weak but Uri encourages his clients to bring their own wines (my own choices, to open with a Burgundy white and then to continue with an Australian Pinot Noir). Open daily 12:00 - 23:00 or later. One of the 10 Best Casual Restaurants in the Country.
Vered haGalil:
in Korazim on the road from Rosh Pina to Sefad. Tel. 04 6935785
* American Reasonable
In addition to offering horseback riding, cross-country hikes and a magnificent view, this beautiful ranch set in the lush hills of the Galilee also has a restaurant that is worthy of note, especially for lunch. The chicken salad, with plenty of finely chopped chicken and green pepper is good and so is the tuna salad. The chopped liver, with lots of chicken fat and chopped onion and the coleslaw are also worth trying. Continue with a hamburger, the smoked trout, the cold salmon with tartar sauce or the smoked beef served in barbecue sauce. Be sure to sample the good apple and berry pies that are offered. This may not be paradise for true gastronomes, but the restaurant is good to visit when driving through the area. Open daily 12:00 - 23:00.

© Daniel Rogov

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