Few of the herbs that grow wild in Israel have become as controversial or caused as much confusion as hyssop (za'atar in Hebrew and Arabic). Mentioned in the Bible, this slightly bitter, somewhat mint-flavored plant, a member of the basil family, has been used for thousands of years in Middle Eastern and Arabic cookery. In addition to being particularly appropriate for use with oily fish, the dried leaves of hyssop go well with stews, salads and fruit pies, and the dried flowers of hyssop are valued for use in soups.

And now for the sad part of the story. Even though hyssop continues to grow in the wild, it is a protected plant within Israel and picking it carries a justifiably large fine. Thus, in almost all cases the hyssop offered in Israel in small jars and in cardboard containers is not hyssop at all but a blend of six to nine different Mediterranean herbs including among others thyme, basil, salt, sumac (a lightly sour, dark red seed that is ground to powder). Interestingly enough, those seeking true hyssop will have to travel to Europe where it still grows wild (and is not protected) in Provence, the Alto Adige region of Italy and parts of Greece and Turkey. There, as in Israel, hyssop is used to steep several liqueurs (most notably Grande Chartreuse), and to sprinkle, together with a bit of olive oil over yoghurt or hot bread.

To add to the confusion, there is another type of hyssop, a perennial known as hyssopus officinalis.
A hardy perennial said to repel insects and sometimes used as a perfume base, this variety of hyssop has little or no charm to the gastronome, for its taste so bitter that the only people known to ingest it are those suffering from gout who make herbal teas from it. Fortunately, to the best of my knowledge, no one in Israel is foolish enough to either sell or buy hyssopus officinalis.

All of which should pose no real problem, however, for one can purchase good za'atar mixtures in the shouks, delicatessens and even supermarkets (in my opinion, the best on the market is that of local company "Spices of Ilana"). Nor is it difficult to make one's own za'atar blend at home. Simply grind together with a mortar and pestle or in a coffee/spice grinder 2 tsp. oregano flakes, 2 tsp. basil, 2 Tbsp. thyme, 1 2 tsp. savory, 2 tsp. marjoram, 1 Tbsp. sumac (if available), 1/2 cup sesame seeds, 1 1/2 tsp. salt (can use more or less to taste, and the zest of 2 lemons. The mixture can be stored in well sealed sterile jars for up to six months.

Following are several recipes for the judicious use of hyssop mixtures.

Hyssop Salad with Potato Cake and Goats' Cheese

1/2 kilo potatoes, unpeeled
675 gr. chevre of other fresh goats' cheese
salt and white pepper to taste
about 3/4 cup olive oil
1 cup arugula, well cleaned and with thick stems discarded
2 cups mixed lettuces, well cleaned and torn into convenient pieces
1/2 cup fresh hyssop (can substitute fresh basil leaves)
1 Tbsp. dried za'atar mixture
1/2 cup black olives, pitted and halved

Cook the potatoes in an ample amount of salted water until tender. Drain, peel and slice the potatoes thinly.

Mash the goats' cheese and season with salt and pepper.

Place 1 Tbsp. of oil in each of 6 10 cm. ramekins and spread half of the goats' cheese on the bottom of the ramekins. On this lay the potato slices, on that spread the remaining goats' cheese. Glaze each ramekin with oil. Place the ramekins in an oven that has been preheated to 175 degrees Celsius until the cheese is lightly golden (about 20 - 25 minutes). Let cool slightly.

To serve, toss the arugula, lettuces, hyssop, za'atar and olives together with olive oil and lemon juice to taste. Taste and season to taste with additional salt and pepper if necessary. Divide the greens among 6 flat salad plates and in the center of each place one of the ramekins. (Serves 6).

Hyssop Salad

1 small chicory (curly endive)
2 Belgian endives
1/2 cup fresh hyssop (can substitute 1 1/2 tsp. dried za'atar)
1 large apple, peeled and cut into 1 cm. slices
1 cup Emmenthal or Gruyere cheese, grated
1 cup walnuts, chopped coarsely
4 Tbsp. olive oil
2 Tbsp. sweet cream
3 Tbsp. lemon juice
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
2 tsp. parsley, chopped
salt and pepper to taste

Wash the chicory and endives well and then cut them into convenient pieces for the salad.

In a jar combine the oil, cream, lemon juice, mustard and chopped parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper and shake very well.

In a salad bowl mix together the vegetables, apples and walnuts. Distribute the cheese over the top, pour over the sauce, toss well and serve. (Serves 4).

© Daniel Rogov