Noted for their hearty appetites, pre-revolutionary Russians enjoyed talking and writing about food nearly as much as they enjoyed eating it. No literature, in fact, has set so many of its scenes around the table. The student Raskolnikov indulged himself with champagne and rich dishes far beyond his means after committing murder in Dostoevsky's Crime and punishment. In addition to their own nearly nonstop snacks, the lonely, provincial women in Chekhov's Three Sisters offered the officers of the garrison lunch, a super of roast turkey and apple tart and almost continuous tea.

Nor was Tolstoy immune to the national need to write about food. In Anna Karenina there is a delightful scene in which the senusal and polished Oblonsky and the spiritual Levin go out to dine together at a fashionable Moscow restaurant. Oblonsky wants to order elegant dishes in the French style: oysters, soupe printaniere, turbot with sauce Beaumarchais and capons a l'estragon. Levin, who in Tolstoy's mind was evidently a symbol of virtuous Russian simplicity is unhappy at this and would have preferred plain porridge, cabbage soup, bread and cheese.

Gogol, in his satirical Dead Souls, sets a dinner scene that is especially revealing of the upper-class tastes of the day. Before entering the dining room, the gentlemen take a few appetizers and a tot of vodka. The meal begins with cabbage soup served with what was a "well known delicacy that consists of sheep's stomach stuffed with buckwheat, brains and sheep's trotters". This is followed by stewed fish, saddle of mutton, chicken fricassee, cheese fritters, and "a turkey as big as a calf, stuffed with all sorts of good things: eggs, rice, kidneys and goodness knows what else". After that plates of radish preserves were served with cheesecakes "each as big as a large plate, and the men, who had intended to talk business, settled sleepily into their easy chairs."

Thanks to Czar Peter the Great, who encouraged the importation of Western European culture, the best Russian cuisine since the 18th century has been heavily influenced by the French chefs who came to work in the homes of the royal family. In fact, not a few well known "Russian dishes" (Beef Strogonoff, Charlotte Russe, Chicken Pojarsky and Chicken Kiev) were invented by Frenchmen.

The massive immigration of Russian Jews to Israel in the 1980s and 90s guaranteed that the cuisine, both of the Tzars and the peasants, would become a permanent part of the Israeli culinary scene. Following are several of my own favorite recipes.

Sauerkraut Soup
Shchi

1/2 kilo sauerkraut
1 1/2 Tbsp. butter
1 1/2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
2 large onions, chopped coarsely
1 stalk celery, diced
2 1/2 liters hot beef stock
1 kilo lean beef, cut into cubes or 10 sliced frankfurters
1 bouquet garni made by tying 1 bay leaf, 8 peppercorns and 1 sprig of thyme in a cheesecloth
salt and pepper to taste
8 small potatoes, boiled in their skins
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh dill or 1 Tbsp. dried dill
1 cup sour cream

Rinse the sauerkraut in cold water and drain thoroughly.

In a large saucepan heat the butter and oil together and in this gently saute the onion and celery until the onions begin to turn golden. Add the stock, meat and bouquet garni and simmer very gently, uncovered, for 2 hours. Discard the bouquet garni, correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste and serve with the whole, peeled potatoes, dill and, if desired, sour cream. (Serves 6 - 8).

Cheese Fritters
Sirniki

Michael Romanov, the first tsar of Russia, claimed that he invented this dish somewhere about 1625. All of which makes for a nice story, but it simply is not true. Greeks have been dining on fritters made from an identical recipe at least since the time of Plato. It is not, however, worth trying to convince most Russians of this. They remain steadfast in the belief that the dish is theirs.

4 cups cottage cheese
1/2 tsp. white pepper
3/4 cup flour, sifted
4 egg yolks
2 Tbsp. sugar
1/4 tsp. salt
butter for frying
sour cream for serving, well chilled

Mix together the cottage cheese and the white pepper. Let stand for 15 minutes. Place the cheese in toweling or cheesecloth and carefully squeeze as much moisture from it as possible. Rub the dry cheese through a sieve. In a mixing bowl combine the cheese, flour, egg yolks, sugar and salt. Knead together well and roll into 3" (7 1/2 cm) thick tubes. Refrigerate for about 1 hour and then slice the rolls into 2 1/2 cm. slices.

In a skillet melt 2 Tbsp. of the butter and in this fry the slices until golden brown on both sides, adding butter only if the skillet becomes dry. Serve hot with the sour cream. (May be served as an appetizer or a dessert).

© Daniel Rogov