Like the people of many other nations, most Israelis celebrate the anniversary of their independence by pausing to reflect on the historical, cultural and ethical meanings of statehood. And, because Israel's Independence Day falls during the comfortable days of springtime, much of that reflection takes place at picnic sites.

It has been estimated that on this special day, nearly 70% of the populace pours out to the parks and beaches, there, amidst a general air of celebration, to prepare and consume vast quantities of food with friends and family. The fact that Israelis are masters of the art of outdoor cooking merely adds to the joy of the day and from the green hills the Galilee to the desert surrounding Beersheba and Arad and to the coastal beaches, the aroma of meat, fowl and fish on the grill announces loudly that this is a special day indeed.

Unlike the British, who celebrate such picnics by preparing foods at home and then pack them in baskets before they travel to their picnic sites, Israelis specialize in cooking al fresco, by setting up small charcoal braziers (the mangle) cooking their foods on the site over hot charcoals. And, unlike Americans, who seem to specialize in such national favorites as hot-dogs and hamburgers, the Israeli picnic is as likely to feature traditional dishes from Iraq, Tunisia or White Russia as it is dishes from Ethiopia, Greece or any of the other eighty nations from which Jews have immigrated.

Israeli picnics are anything but staid, for as charcoals heat up so do the voices of the adults and the children. The noise level rises, the pace of activities becomes almost frenetic and some observers are hard pressed to tell whether they are observing families at their leisure or at war. At a nearly unbelievable speed, huge quantities of food are prepared and consumed. The children run loudly after one another, the parents try, sometimes almost desperately, to quiet them down, and whomever is doing the cooking tries to keep his or her sanity intact while preparing food for all these people on the run.

The point is, however, that those who partake in these activities seem to gain enormous pleasure from them. So popular is this delightful pastime that songs have been written about it, a television series was based on the phenomenon and at least two movies were made that centered primarily about the phenomenon of the picnic. The truth is that whatever one things of the social phenomena, the people taking part are enjoying themselves enormously and the foods, by any standard, are marvelous.

Following is a selection of recipes for dishes that are especially popular at Independence Day picnics. Although it is traditional to prepare these dishes over hot charcoals, each may be prepared in the kitchen by cooking in the broiler. One may happily report that such foods may also be consumed with a minimum of noise. The salads, ideal compliments to these dishes, can be prepared in advance at home.

Lamb Shishlik
Traditional Middle-Eastern

2 lbs. (900 gr.) lamb
2 Tbsp. olive oil
juice of 1 lemon
1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper
1/4 tsp. hot paprika
6 medium onions, quartered
3 sweet green peppers, seeded and cut in eighths
1 small eggplant, sliced into 1 1/2" (3cm.) squares
6 medium tomatoes, quartered
6 bay leaves, quartered

Using a sharp knife, cut the meat into 1 - 1 1/2" (2 1/2 - 3 cm.) cubes.

In a mixing bowl combine the olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper and paprika and mix well. Into this place the meat, tossing so that the meat is thoroughly coated with the mixture. Refrigerate, covered, and marinate 6 - 8 hours, turning occasionally.

Put the meat on skewers, alternating meat, onion, green pepper, eggplant, tomato, bay leaves, etc., until all of the ingredients are used. Grill over hot charcoals until the meat is done. Serve hot.

Grilled Lamb Chops
A recipe from Lebanon

12 lamb chops, about 1 1/2" (4 cm.) thick
dried oregano and rosemary to taste
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped finely
1/2 cup lemon juice
3 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
1 Tbsp. lemon peel, chopped finely

Trim the excess fat off the chops and sprinkle generously, first with oregano and tarragon and then with salt and pepper to taste. Brush the chops with oil and arrange them over hot charcoals Turn after 3 - 4 minutes and cook on the second side, avoiding overcooking. Arrange the chops on a preheated serving platter and sprinkle over the lemon peel, onion and parsley. Over all sprinkle the lemon juice. Serve hot.

Kebabs
A Moroccan version

1 lb. (450 gr.) each ground beef and veal, mixed together
6 spring onions, chopped finely
5 cloves garlic, chopped finely
2 hot red peppers, chopped finely
1 tsp. each salt and pepper
1/2 tsp. each turmeric, dill seed and flour

Combine all of the ingredients in a mixing bowl and knead well by hand. Form into 3" (8 cm.) sausages and impale these on long wooden skewers. Grill over open charcoals or under a hot broiler, turning occasionally so that cooking is uniform. Cook just until the meat is done. Serve hot.

Lamb on the Spit
A Greek and Bulgarian recipe

Although the following recipe may not be appropriate for the everyday cookout or picnic, it is a marvelous way to celebrate a special event.

1 whole lamb (or kid) trimmed, from 30 - 50 lb. (14 - 22 kilos)
1 lemon, halved
salt and pepper as required
several sprigs each fresh thyme, oregano and rosemary
6 lemons
2 cups olive oil
10 cloves garlic, minced

With a damp cloth wipe the lamb inside and out. Rub the cavity well with a cut lemon and then rub well with salt and pepper. Into the body cavity place the sprigs of herbs and close with skewers. Rub the outer surface with the cut lemon, sprinkle with salt and pepper and the brush with olive oil.

To place the lamb on the spit place the carcass on the stomach and starting from the back legs, push the spit through the center, towards and through the neck. Pull the forelegs forward and tie to the spit with wire. Pull the back legs along the spit, cross them above it and secure with wire.

In a large jar combine the juice from 4 lemons with the olive oil, garlic and 1 tsp. each of salt and pepper. To this add 1 or 2 sprigs of oregano and thyme. Into this mixture drop a muslin cloth and allow it to soak.

Over a well banked charcoal fire put the spitted lamb in position. Turn the lamb over the fire slowly, basting occasionally with the cloth that has been soaked in the oil mixture. As cooking progresses the lamb may be moved closer to the fire. Roast until the meat is succulent throughout (about 6 - 7 hours), adding more coals as necessary. (Serves 20 - 40).

Spiced Grilled Chicken
An Algerian Recipe

2 small chickens, quartered
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup lemon juice
6 Tbsp. olive oil
8 - 10 cloves garlic, minced
2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped

Season the chicken parts with salt and pepper. Place the lemon juice, olive oil garlic and parsley in a bowl and in this mixture roll the chicken quarters, coating well. Let marinate 2 hours, turning 3 - 4 times.

Drain the chicken and reserve the marinade. Transfer the chicken parts, skin side down, to a rack and place over hot charcoals about 6" (15 cm.) from the heat and grill for 10 minutes, basting occasionally with the marinade. Turn the pieces and grill 10 minutes longer, basting once or twice. Turn the pieces once again and brush well with the marinade until the side facing the heat is nicely browned. Turn one last time, brush again and let the second side brown. Serve hot.

Grilled Red Mullet with Lemon Sauce
An Egyptian recipe

2 large red mullets, about 1 1/2 lb. (675 gr.) each, split and cleaned (can also use trout)
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup each olive oil and lemon juice
1 tsp. dried oregano, pounded finely
1/2 tsp. rosemary

Sprinkle the fish well with salt and pepper and then brush well with olive oil. Combine the remaining oil with the lemon juice, oregano and rosemary. Place the fish on a lightly oiled rack over hot charcoals and brush with the dressing. Let cook 5 minutes on each side, basting occasionally.

Transfer the fish to a preheated serving platter, pour over the remaining sauce and serve immediately.

Green Pepper Salad

15 large green peppers
1 cup olive oil
4 large onions, sliced
salt to taste
4 1/2 lb. (2 kilos) firm ripe tomatoes, peeled and sliced
1 cup vinegar

Cut each pepper in half, remove the seeds and pith, rinse well and then cut each half in lengthwise quarters. In a heavy saucepan combine the oil, sliced onions, peppers and salt to taste. Over this mixture place the tomatoes. Cover the pan and simmer over a low flame for 1 1/2 hours, stirring occasionally. About 15 minutes before removing from the flame add the vinegar mixed with 2 Tbsp. of water. Remove from the flame and let cool. Refrigerate. Serve cold.

Bean Salad

2 cups dried lima beans
salt to taste
1/2 cup spring onions, chopped coarsely
1/4 cup onion, chopped finely
1/4 cup olive oil
2 Tbsp. each wine vinegar and chopped parsley
pepper and Tabasco sauce to taste

Wash the beans under cold running water. Transfer to a large saucepan and cover with hot water. Let stand in the water 2 - 3 hours.

Bring the water to a boil and then simmer gently for 2 hours. Skim carefully, add salt to taste and let cook until the beans are tender (about 30 minutes longer). Drain the beans well and transfer to a salad bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well. Let cool, cover and refrigerate. Serve well chilled.

© Daniel Rogov